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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2007, 12:18 PM
Irelands child's Avatar
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Originally Posted by SuthnCustoms
I can get my hands on a few stainless tanks on a few jobs i work alot,think i may have to go buy a 2 stage setup and give the stainless tank a whirl n see what happens.

I take what your saying is to keep the pump and motor seperated from the tank on a frame and maybe run hardlines from the pump to the tank with filters in between?..am i right?..John
Good idea - just make sure that the tank is rated and stamped as a pressure vessel meeting National Board/ASME standards. If these things blow, they tend to do a lot of damage to property and equipment - including the human body

Dave

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2007, 10:48 AM
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Ireland's Child is bang on.

Let me throw this out to ponder.

If you were to use a non-certified tank as a pressure vessel and it exploded, the damage may not be covered by your home owner's insurance. The same may be true if you remove or never installed a GFI breaker (where required by code) from a circuit and a fire occurred.

The chances of having a claim denied increases exponentially with an insurance policy covering a business.

When you have an insurance claim for a car accident, the insurance company seeks to assign blame to minimize their outlay. However, they usually wind up paying even if you're at fault. If you had non-DOT rated tires on your rod and had an accident, the insurance company could deny your claim. Though, it probably doesn't happen or at least, often.

Aviation insurance is different. If you use a non-certified part or a part that can't be properly traced for history, you have no insurance! It's not a matter of threatening to sue the insurance company. You flatly have no insurance coverage. Your claim will be rejected and you have no recourse.

If not in place now, this position will become a standard for claim denial for other types of insurance. The insurance company will look for any reason to deny your claim and finding a building code violation is what their looking for.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2007, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dugg
Look at the motor.

If it's an Emerson Electric Motor (assembled in mexico) and the data Plate says HP, SPL, then its's the same (we'd like you to believe it's) 5HP motor used by all the cheap-crap compressor assemblers.

Compare the size of this motor to the size of a real 5 HP electric motor from Grainger and tell me you think the skimpy little motor on the compressor is actually 5 HP. In fluid power there's a simple formula that is PSI X GPM divided by 1500 that is the general rule for horse power requirements.

When the Big Slox (Yes Paris, I intended it to be a slur of big box and sluts) stores advertise 7.5 peak horse power, it's when no work is being done. If you want a compressor that's rated for a, no-work-being-done situation, why would you need a compressor?
You are right that the quality of the motor used on the compressor is important.
The peak HP of the motor is the least of your considerations. That is a meaningless figure based on the motor being under absolutely no load. A better figure to look at is the service factor or SF. If it's 1.15, it means it can operate at 115% of horsepower rating. An electric motor, whether AC or DC, produces 3 ft lbs of torque per horsepower at 1750 RPMs. If the motor is running at 3500 RPMs, it is producing half that, or 1.5 ft lbs of torque per horsepower. All you need that motor to do is turn the compressor. Naturally, the more actual horsepower the motor produces will make it work less while it's turning the compressor, but if the motor is sized correctly for the load, turning the compressor is no problem for the motor. The motor should not burn up unless it is being overloaded because the compressor has locked up.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2007, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
Good idea - just make sure that the tank is rated and stamped as a pressure vessel meeting National Board/ASME standards. If these things blow, they tend to do a lot of damage to property and equipment - including the human body

Dave

I work on alot of vessels(tanks) in my line of work,repairing,installing,modifications..etc. at paper plants,auto plants,power plants and etc.You would be surprised at how many brand new tanks are scrapped because the fabricator built or designed them wrong and don't fit or is the wrong type of vessel built,alot of times they just send the right one out to the site immediatly so they can get things running again ASAP and the customer keeps or scraps the wrong one because of the cost of shipping it back over rides the cost of the tank and rendered useless to them anyhow because it has already been modified for a specific purpose and could never modify it properly for another purpose and still stand behind it as being brand new.
Any of the stainless tanks i would be able to get my hands on would be a minimum of 1/8th of an inch thick and up to 3/8's of an inch thick.
Nothing like the paper thin tanks of today's compressor tanks made of cheap mild steel,
It would be used in a shop outside in its own weather proof shelter,no where near the home.
John
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2007, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuthnCustoms
.............It would be used in a shop outside in its own weather proof shelter,no where near the home.
John
John,
Obviously you can do what you want - but please reconsider NOT using an uncertified tank. They don't just go bang. his is one heck of an explosion - think big. Way back in the '60s, Richard Petty had a cousin killed at a race when a little 2-3 Hp version blew - and it did a lot of collateral damage. Side wall thickness doesen't have much to do with the tank pressure capacity as there are many grades of steel and stainless - and if it is used in the wrong application......or has an incorrect weld spec for major pressure, i.e. 150 and up, it will not work. Think safe - if not for you, then anyone nearby.

Dave
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Old 12-23-2007, 09:38 PM
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Thank you VERY much for the concern..TRUELY appreciated .

Just to clarify..any of the tanks i would use are designed to hold MUCH more than 120-175 PSI,the 2 availabilities i have is from nuclear power plants and Paper Plants,the tanks from the nuke plants are used as Residual Heat Reducers right before the hot water/pressure is exposed to air in the turbines,these tanks take more PSI abuse than any compressor out there ever would.
The other i am considering is a resevour(spell check) for steam under pressure used to run the paper machines.
Im hoping to get the one from the nuke plant because anything that comes in the gate to a nuke plant is traced from the day the material was mined,to the steel mill and to the plant for quality insurance,cant get any better material.
This is why government and nuclear plants pay so much for everything,the suppliers have to pay for the tracable stamp on materials and pay an outragious insurance premium to cover any faults or damages in cause of the product,just an example..if a tank they fabricated and supplied happen to fail during a runnin period of the reactor,they have to be liable for any damages it caused..plus 1.2 million bucks a day loss that the plants produce..( i need to get into THAT type of insurance biz).
So long story short,yes anything i use will be MORE than fit for the job and overly safe..thanks Ireland........John

PS..im glad you clarified that in here because alot of people MAY think just using any steel tank is ok to use..which is FAR from the truth.
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