Devilbiss GFG-670 Plus vs Iwata LPH-400?
Ok, I have the cash to buy a new spray gun. I'm trying to decide on either the Devilbiss GFG-670 Plus or the Iwata LPH-400. Pros and Cons for each:
1. Comes with three tips (not just a choice of one or another, but actually comes with all)
2. Highly recommended by people on this board as well as other autobody boards.
3. Fairly inexpensive, $279 shipped.
4. Not HVLP - could care less, I'm a hobbiest.
5. Also comes with a few minor gadgets like a regulator and such (I know this is minor but still you get more for the money).
1. Several tip suggestions but you only choose one type (I'd probably go 1.4)
2. Very Very Very highly recommended on here as well as other boards.
3. Lighter weight.
5. More money but still not too much; $360 plus shipping.
Keep in mind that I'm an inexperienced painter who is restoring his first car. So I'm learning as I go but I want a pretty good reliable piece of equipment to provide good results as I gain experience. I hope to restore many more cars in my lifetime. If I buy the Devil, I will have enough cash to pick up an inexpensive touch up gun as well (I was just looking at a Sharpe Finex, comments?). If I buy the Iwata, I'll be strapped for cash for a little while which may hold off my restoration project for a bit as a result.
So what do you think? I'm hoping to make a decision this week.
BTW I run a Quincy 60 gallon, true 5hp compressor with approximately 16 cfm at 175psi. So air should not be a problem with either gun. I do have cooling piping with several traps and a decent filter system. I run large fittings, etc.
I think you should go with the Devil and save some cash. The devil will produce
results as good as the iwata.
Since you are new to the game, you will be hitting the ground running with
a "Class Gun" from which you can gain experience shooting paint. You may also
consider getting a primer gun as you will need that too.
I use a Sharpe Finex with a 1.8 tip for primer. Both devilbiss and Sharpe make very good products, so you really cant go wrong.
One other point. The Iwata has a lower air requirement than the GFG-670 and
produces a tulip type pattern to minimize over-spray, but for $360 its over-priced
I'm gonna take the other choice. I would much rather have the Iwata LPH400. Since it's an HVLP, you may not care less if it is, but once you use a true HVLP you will never go back to conventional non HVLP. With the outrageous price of materials the amount you waste with over-spray from a non HVLP is high.
I do not know where the Devillbiss is made , but I would venture a guess it's probably China. Both Binks and Devillbiss have had to cut manufacturing cost drastically to stay in business. The Iwata is still made in Japan with exceptional quality.
Well with what I read, devil is trying to classify the gfg gun as a true hvlp. I'm not sure any of the details but it sounds like this gun is right on the verge of passing as a true 'hvlp'. So I'm not sure if it really uses a lot more paint. Devil website claims that this gun is 'Equal to or better than HVLP transfer efficiency'. But who knows.
Yeah I'm not sure where the devil is made but I've always viewed them as a high end gun (also been recommended by many jobbers).
I knew that I would get responses from both sides here! lol, makes my decision a hard one.
btw I have the harbor frieght gun that I use for primer. It works great for the epoxy. It isn't the best for 2K but it has been working fairly adequately. I also have an el-cheapo conventional gun that I use for spraying the 2K.
Specs on the Iwata:
Specs on the Devil
Looks like both use about the same amount of air; iwata at 9.5 cfm and devil between 9 and 11 cfm.
Oh god, I don't know which to choose. I want to save money but I also don't want to make a poor choice.
Get the D, and I have an Iwata LPH.
You'll need the extra tips and you also need to learn to paint.
Great guns don't make good painters,practice does that.
A great gun will HELP you paint better but it's not like a magic wand or anything.
I started with a D and still use it today but as I learned to paint,and decided to keep at it,I got better equipment.
D also has a nice touch up which I don't remember the # but it's has SR in the part #. I'd choose it over the Finex,which I have and WON'T buy another. Sharp guns just don't last IMO.
If you want a Finex,get it but don't expect it to last.
The thing that worries me about Devillbiss is the fact that they offer gun packages of two or more guns, and those guns are made in China. Paying $49 for a gun made in China is not too bad (HF 46430), but paying several hundred dollars for one made in China is something else. :pain:
i tried a lot of different guns before i replaced all my guns. everything is iwata. the price of a good tool is irrelevant when you consider the return. better gun = less work , more profit. i chose the gun that felt best and performed. iwatas are light and the pattern cant be beat to my knowledge. your gun , your choice :)
FYI , the gfg-670 is made here in the USA. The actual gun body is not cast or forged. Its cnc machined out of 1 piece of aluminum.
Im with bee4me on this. I have a gfg-670 and also there SRI spot gun. The SRI is made in england. Both guns are nothing short of excellent. The atomization and air consumption of the SRI is amazing.
I doubt very much without the extra tips that are available for the Iwata that
it performs as well as the gfg-670 will right out of the box. With the gfg-670
you get a 1.2, 1.3, 1.4 tips. A good selection for todays paint types.
With a good gun you will eliminate alot of problems, but the gun is only part
of the equation. You have to learn how to configure it correctly and practice
painting. No gun is the magic wand, but if you practice alot after awhile a good gun sure can feel like one.
Shine on the lph-400 lv, is it true if you put too much air in you can split
the fan pattern with the end result of banding in the paint ?
I have painted off and on for 20 years started with a sharp #75 from snap on truck and went to a devilbiss jga. Now I have gotten back in years later and used a Hvlp for a year, Now it was time to switch to something more expensive as I bought a cheap Hvlp less then 200.00. So now I have chosen the Devilbiss 670 which by all means it the next level beyond Hvlp which more then one paint salesman including ppg has explained the 670 PLUS gun is a low pressure gravity feed which in a way is old school but whats in the gun for parts and the design it surpasses hvlp tecnology. Iwat, Sata, devilbiss all good guns and practice is what it takes to be a good painter and getting to know how and what to set it at. You will like any expensive gun but the 670 sprays less like hvlp and still uses minimal matieral like hvlp do some research. good luck!
i'm sure it's possible to split the fan. i am shooting with less air as i get use to the guns. it came down to a choice between sata and iwata. if you damage the tip on the sata it's my understanding you must buy needle and heads as a set. the thing i like about the iwata is you can paint " deliberate " . meaning you can slow down, get close, and really lay it down slick. i shot 2 fenders and 4 hood pieces red with a new respirator. after wards the pre filters were still clean. almost 0 over spray. i have around 15 binks and develbiss guns around here. most are #7's and jga's from the van bez. i just felt the iwata was a little ahead on technology. i guess you just have to pull the trigger on them to decide.
Shine , I had heared that it was pretty good for reducing overspray. I may demo
one of the 1.4 tip versions in the not to distant future. One other thing, How
far from the panel do you need to be to produce the full fan width. And running
full fan, is the overspray still pretty minimal.
nothing about these guns make any sense to me. i went from jga's, jga/with pressure pot to hvlp's. i bought a good collection of junk. then i tried the iwata. 4 to 6 in off and wide open and an 8 in fan ? crazy to me. once i slowed down and let the gun work it has been great. the lph 100 with the sidewinder cup is just as good of a gun in miniature. it's been a long time since i didn't have to sand and buff. i do not like the seating arrangement on a buffer :D
when you shoot with it try to make it sag. pretty tuff to do. i am dropping down to the 1.3 tip for clear and coming down to12 to 14 lbs at the gun. this will slow me down a little more .
Shine Wow, air pressure seems pretty low for that fan width. From what you
said I think the gun is designed to paint slow with, while providing good
How does it do for clear coating. I had heared that this is one area that
the gun is not all that great in, I would be interested to hear your comments
Just the opposite, I use my LPH-400 for clearcoat and the others for basecoat, clearcoat atomization is as good as I've ever seen with the Iwata. A must for the HS clears of today.
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