Dewalt Dry cut metal chop saw review (hint: you'll kick yourself) - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2011, 07:00 AM
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It has been my experience if you have a cutting tool walking and you are not applying excessive pressure, you have one side of the cutting edge dulled more than the other side. You might inspect each tooth to see if that is the case (if it has teeth) or if the cutting material is worn more on one side or the other. My replacement cutting tool bills would have been much less over the years had I been a faster learner in letting the cutting surface do the work and not adding more pressure to speed up the job and taking the time to carefully inspect the cutting surfaces when a tool was not cutting normally. I was a slow learner in properly sharpening tools as well, but it sure pays off now. I am struggling with teaching my son how to properly use and treat tools, but he is coming around because he has to buy the replacement tools that he breaks or destroys.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2011, 01:14 PM
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brand new saw, brand new blade, no pressure used.

like i said, shouldnt have to pay $180 to fix a brand new saw thats never been used, no matter what the reason.
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Old 04-09-2011, 05:43 AM
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I could be wrong but that sure looks like the same exact base ,backstop as my dewalt abrasive saw.,looks like they just mounted a different motor and blade on it...I would have keept looking if I wanted one...
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Old 04-09-2011, 10:02 AM
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It is, and Milwaukee did the same thing with there 618-20 ( abrasive ) and 6190-20 ( dry cut ). but the base there mounted to is cast iron.. If I could have found a 6180-20 locally I would own 1, but I couldn't when I was looking, so I settled with the Ridgid 4141 which has a cast iron base
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Old 04-09-2011, 01:42 PM
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also turns out that doing miter corners makes the backstop for the clamp slide, which allso allows your material to slide carther and farther to the right.

If i was to try to build a retangle out of square tubing, i would have to spend FOREVER back measuring to the blade to get the overall length i wanted

I was thinking i would be able to modify this saw to make it work right, but now im thinking thats a waste of effort.
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Old 04-10-2011, 06:55 AM
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I was having trouble in the wood shop with the blades flexing. they make a stabilizer for that problem that cured it ,all they are ,are giant washers that sandwich the blade,might work for your metal saw as well....
As for that crappy POS fence ,I got tired of setting up and double checking everything every time I changed an angle so I put permanent marks in the base that I lined the fence up with ,to speed things up. the problem with the abrasive blade is as it wears down you have to move the fence so you need many lines for the same angle.That shouldnt be a problem with the cold saw..I used my cut off wheel to cut the lines showing the angles some white paint in the groove makes it even easier for us half blind guys that never seem to have their glasses handy.
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Old 04-10-2011, 08:31 AM
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angle cut.

My old 220 v belt driver abrasive chop saw came with a 45* drop in vise, , the regular vise is fixed at 90* for other angles I usually get out the milwaukee portaband,
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