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Old 03-14-2010, 10:52 AM
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Did I make a mistake not installing DROP SPINDLES???

Guys, I don't really have a question, but I am hoping for a little advise, especially from someone that may be familiar with a Chevelle.

I spent the winter months completely rebuilding my front and rear suspension and did a lot of powder coating and dress-up work at the same time. You can take a look at my "photo album" to see some pictures of the completed suspension. Now that this project is completed, I regret not installing 2" drop spindles on my 68 Chevelle. The car already has a nice stance, but I think this would have improved the stance, as well as the handling of the car.

If I add them now, I will need to either modify my freshly powder coated dust covers, or remove them all together. Are there any other issues that I may not be aware of if I add the drop spindles to my car. The manufacturer tells me that there will be no other modifications required.

Your advise and options would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

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Old 03-14-2010, 11:48 AM
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Hey man great job. Love the detail. I have not dealt with a Chevelle, but I had to install lift spindles for my wifes 94 Burb. Wasn't too much trouble. The only advice I would give is have 12'' C-clamps on hand. Made it a little easier. Like I said, nothing major, just some finesse getting it all to line up. Have fun.
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Old 03-14-2010, 11:55 AM
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Thanks for the information.

I am not too worried about doing the work, since I just did it all a couple of months ago.

I am just wandering if there is enough advantage to drop spindles for me to re-do the spindles again before spring gets here.

Thanks
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Old 03-14-2010, 04:19 PM
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2" more drop??

Quote:
Originally Posted by renfroe453
I am just wandering if there is enough advantage to drop spindles for me to re-do the spindles again before spring gets here.

Thanks
The advantage would mostly be the visual impact. I personally really like the stance you have now, but IF you think you would like the nose-down look, then go for it. Be advised, though, that 2" will be very noticeable. Right now, you appear to be pretty level...with a 2" drop, it will definitely be called nose-down.
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Old 03-14-2010, 05:39 PM
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The aftermarket dropped spindles for the A-body cars use an integrally forged caliper mount. This is different from the stock bolt on caliper mount. I doubt the stock dust shields can be used.
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Old 03-15-2010, 06:11 AM
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Lowering springs will actually improve the steering / suspension geometry.

Might try that first.
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Old 03-15-2010, 07:29 AM
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DO NOT ,I repeat, DO NOT touch that stance. Great job, great look,. FANTASTIC.
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Old 03-15-2010, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cape Cod Bob
DO NOT ,I repeat, DO NOT touch that stance. Great job, great look,. FANTASTIC.
Hey guys, thanks for all the pointers.

It looks as though I am going to follow the advise of CAPE COD BOB.

Thanks again.
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Old 03-15-2010, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan59EC
Lowering springs will actually improve the steering / suspension geometry.

Might try that first.
Um, how is that? The suspension geometry is defined by the height of the spindle, the length of the control arms, and the locations of the pivot points. Changing the spring height MIGHT put the suspension in a more advantageous part of the suspension travel with the car at ride height, but it doesn't change the geometry.
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Old 03-15-2010, 09:00 AM
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I agree with Cape Cod Bob, I think it looks great the way it sits now. If you lower it 2 more inches in front then you will have to lower the rear. Then you'll have to watch out for speed bumps. The weather is going to get better soon , drive it and enjoy it then maybe rethink lowering it more next winter.
IMO I would leave it where it at. I have a 69 SS396 Chevelle and it sits at stock height , if I lower it any I'll be scraping my headers, oil pan and bellhousing on everything. Plus my wife drives it also.
Gene
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Old 03-15-2010, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Um, how is that? The suspension geometry is defined by the height of the spindle, the length of the control arms, and the locations of the pivot points. Changing the spring height MIGHT put the suspension in a more advantageous part of the suspension travel with the car at ride height, but it doesn't change the geometry.
Okay----I may have mis-spoken

This is an A-body thing I guess, but lowering springs are supposed to put the arms more in the center of the travel. Wheels stay more to the verticle in a turn, and don't lean over as much.

This is stuff I have gleaned from Team Chevelle-----have not done it myself, as I think I will keep the stock height on my 66----But if I do ever lower it, I will not use spindles. (have OEM 72 Disc spindles---wanna keep em)

I have drop spindles on my 79 C-10 and my 59 Elky-----need 1/2 acre to get one of these cars turned around. U-turn in town---near impossible.

Again--not a suspension guru----but try to absorb as much stuff that I can from those Chevell fanatics.
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Old 03-15-2010, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan59EC
This is an A-body thing I guess, but lowering springs are supposed to put the arms more in the center of the travel. Wheels stay more to the verticle in a turn, and don't lean over as much.
OK, that makes more sense.
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Old 03-15-2010, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan59EC
Okay----I may have mis-spoken

This is an A-body thing I guess, but lowering springs are supposed to put the arms more in the center of the travel. Wheels stay more to the verticle in a turn, and don't lean over as much.

This is stuff I have gleaned from Team Chevelle-----have not done it myself, as I think I will keep the stock height on my 66----But if I do ever lower it, I will not use spindles. (have OEM 72 Disc spindles---wanna keep em)

I have drop spindles on my 79 C-10 and my 59 Elky-----need 1/2 acre to get one of these cars turned around. U-turn in town---near impossible.

Again--not a suspension guru----but try to absorb as much stuff that I can from those Chevell fanatics.
I think what he may be going after here, is with lowering springs, generally speaking, the lower control arm and tie-rod end tend to be closer to level at ride height and that can help with bump steer issues. That along with the upper control arm at more of an angle (high on the outboard end) helps with negative camber gain on the loaded (outboard) side of the suspension when cornering. All good things generally. With drop spindles that are exact replacements for the original except the spindle height, you don't receive any of the other potential advantages.

Andy
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Old 03-16-2010, 05:58 AM
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Thanks, Andy

I just hate it when I know what I want to say---just can't figure out how to say it

Pretty sure I am not the only one with this problem
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Old 03-16-2010, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cape Cod Bob
DO NOT ,I repeat, DO NOT touch that stance. Great job, great look,. FANTASTIC.
I'm with him. The gap between the wheel and wheel arches looks exactly the same which is what gives the best visual look. It looks perfect the way it is
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