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Did a search and still have questions. Door Panel help please -pics inside-

3K views 6 replies 4 participants last post by  cuztomcarbuilder 
#1 ·
Im new here, and I have learned that not doing searches will get you flamed, therefore I did a search and read through 6 posts on making a door panel and was hoping to still get some help.

I have an 1987 chevy full size c10 and want to make my own door panel. The problem is, the door is not flat and im estimating an 1/2" border will be to be attached to the masonite throughout all the edges to give it the up to become flat.

I already bought a sheet of 2x4 masonite and it will be sufficient for one door.

I read about using cardboard for the first design and since I tried workin with posterboard once and it was too flimsy and just kept falling around while trying to work on it myself, I will be using the cardboard method to get my design.

Here is the problem im having... as I said I bought the masonite and I already have all the fiberglass materials needed for one of two actual problems/questions I have..

(1) Im using fiberglass because the door panels in my truck have a curved shape that forms the top part of the panel where the door lock is so I am having to take that mold off just the top part of the panel in order to make it flush... that I think i can do and then just attach it to the masonite.

Problem (2)... Do I HAVE to use some type of foam on the door panel before wrapping my tweed material? Im taking a shaped type of door panel and transforming it to a flat type of door panel for a hot-rod style look. I understand addin the foam would make it softer but with it already going to have a flat 1/2" raising edge, how thin of a foam can I add and buy locally to put on my masonite?


I understand the problem with the possibility of Masonite warping over time but (1) it will not be wet and (2) once these panels are made they will be sitting inside in a closet for 3 or 4 months until I have the rest of the cab inside and out primered for paint and put it back in for simply test fitting. Then once the truck is under complete primer and i put the interior back in for show season next year it will be car covered... therefore heat should not be an extreme issue with this truck and it is Not a daily driver.


Attached is a picture of a stock door pane my style truck and the panel im creating for the hot-rod look I want.



Thanks
 
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#3 ·
Shannon-

I know of the roddoors panels but im not interested in them. I've decided to do this project and find a way to make flat panels. Last night i traced my panel on the masonit and realize that it wont work because of the panels are made with the angles to go from flat edge to raised to clear the weird door structure... therefore im going to cut just a straight cut in the same length of the stock panel in heigh/width and take that fiberglass mold hopefully/possibly today...I think making the 1/2" or 3/4" raised border will clear the stuff and still clear to close the door and not rub into the dash.

Any other help?
 
#4 ·
You usually need to make the Masonite panels only when you don't have any other options. Your fairly late model truck has 'custom', form fitted, plastic panels readily available so why go to the trouble of making Masonite ones? If it were me, I would get a set of stock plastic ones and modify them with the fiberglass to suit my desires. Cover them with a layer of 1/8" or 1/4" closed cell foam which will smooth out the surface; softness is a secondary consideration. With the closed cell foam you can also add sculptured details that look great covered with the final upholstery.
 
#5 ·
im wanting to make my own because i want a flat door panel look. at no cheaper then about 90$ + shippin for a set of new panels, i want to make my own... one thing i am considering though is cutt of the arm rest, duct-tape all the places that have some lines etc to get it completely flat then take a fiberglass mold off of that

watcha think?
 
#7 ·
Door Panels

For my car I stripped all the fabric off the doors and fastened them to a sheet of 3/4 MDF (to keep them straight) I masked off the perimeter with tape and cardboard and taped up any holes in the surface. Then get some 2 part urethane foam, mix it up and pour over the panel. Let it grow and dry. Then use a carving knife to cut off the excess. Use 36 grit to make the shape you want. In your case use a flat board with sandpaper glued to it and block it flat. Then apply a light coat of resin and wait for it to get sticky. Then cut squares of 1.5 oz fiberglass mat approx 6x6 and rip the edges to get a feathered edge. I use approx 3 to 5 layers of mat on a panel. Then use DURAGLASS on the panel. After a light sanding you can wrap the panel. If you want painted panels then add Rage Gold filler on top of the duraglass and sand until you are ready for primer. This sounds like alot but when you try to figure out how to mount the panel you will be glad to used the original because of the clips and such that are retained. There are more tricks to getting the panel to stay on but this seems to work for me on a complete custom panel. You can also retain the nice large screws that hold the arm rest on if you use a "Tampon Tube" to keep the foam from covering up the screw holes. Gives you a nice hole that you can install a plug in and later on access these screws that do ALOT for holding the panel on. There are alot of ideas that you can get from this site.... Check it out...

http://ecominet2.alpine-usa.com/html/adc/adc_main.html

Good Luck...
 
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