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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2010, 09:46 AM
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If you used the 14022601 305 heads, w/52-53cc Chambers you wouldn't have to mill them. I think these are thick castings. 80-86 G20-Vans, C20-Trucks. 1.84"/1.50" Valves.

3.875 bore X 3.25 Stroke, 53cc Chamber, 4VR 7cc Piston, .015" Gasket, .025" Deck Height = 10.27 Cr. & .040" Quench/Piston to Head Clearance.
With .028" GM gasket = 9.94Cr. & .053" Quench/PHC.
With .025" Mr.Gasket = 10.02Cr. & .050" Quench/PHC.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2010, 01:55 PM
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well the verdict is in:

462624.....75-86...350/400......76cc chamber
what kinda compression am i looking at lol like nothing? should i just consider going turbo or something now or what...sigh.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2010, 02:02 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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see posts #7 and #15...

#16 isn't a bad option either.

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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2010, 02:11 PM
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turbo would be cool! Sounds almost easy with Megasquirt!
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Old 01-27-2010, 02:41 PM
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On post #16 not a bad approach. It will not cost you an arm and a leg. Turbo is great, but you need a lot of $$$
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Old 01-27-2010, 05:11 PM
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well found a steal for these so i picked up em asap

14014416...80-86...305..........1.84"/1.5" valves, 58cc chambers

whats this talk about using 1.94" valves on these? what will that do, and would a machine shop be able to do that for me? how much am i looking at? thanks for the help so far!
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Old 01-27-2010, 05:27 PM
How fast is fast enough?
 
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yes a shop can easily do that. valves will cost $80 machine work is about $200
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Old 01-27-2010, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ap72
yes a shop can easily do that. valves will cost $80 machine work is about $200
is it worth it? what would be the benefits of upping the valve size on this engine? i keep hearing the smaller people go with things on the 307 the better, and i'd rather be saving some money if i can
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2010, 05:47 PM
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porting out the heads will get you good power. larger valves help but aren't absolutely necessary. just do a good job porting, clean them up, pin your studs, swap the springs, use a thin head gasket and let er rip.

don't forget to fix your ignition too.
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Old 01-27-2010, 06:31 PM
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so are you saying the valve springs from my current heads i can use with the 305 heads? i'm trying to save as much money as i can here i got these other heads completely redone so i'd like to keep what i can from those. do you think the machine shop would help me do that or they'd rip my face off and say i need new everything for the 305 heads? and so what is the final verdict on the HEI choice? i need one thats smaller bodied due to firewall clearance.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2010, 07:09 PM
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Yes you can use the springs with no problem.
Get a Mallory Unilite distributer. It the same diameter as the point distributer. It will clear the firewall and get plenty of firepower.

Last edited by lg1969; 01-27-2010 at 07:14 PM.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2010, 07:14 PM
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You could use all the parts out of your current heads in the 416 heads if the parts are in good shape, a good machinist will recognize this and not try to rip you off, just need to cut them for the bigger valve and do the valve job.

If you need to stay with the small cap distributor I would recommend a Pertronix Ignitor electronic conversion kit to replace the points in your current piece. These work very well and are super easy to install.

I wouldn't use a Unilite on a bet, lots of posts about this, good chance it will leave you stranded without power somewhere, someday. They are super finicky about voltage spikes in the power wires.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2010, 07:56 PM
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Some of the #624 heads have small tiny 1.72" intake valves.

I estimate your present cr is 7.29:1 with 76cc heads and .040" head gasket.

Port your 416 heads yourself and get the machine shop to install new 1.94 valves in them and shave 'em. install with a felpro #1094 gasket.

Don't be shy with the porting if you want to go fast.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 01-27-2010 at 08:03 PM.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2010, 07:59 PM
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Ditto on the Unilite, every single component I've ever had with the Mallory name on it has failed or given me problems.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2010, 09:47 PM
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If you`ve never ported a head before I recommend you don`t port them other than to take the time to study pictures and learn how to do a basic bowl port / clean up. There`s not much to screw up in the bowl, but there is plenty to screw up in the main port. There is nobody that`s a natural good porter that knows where to port and how much to remove. If you don`t have a flow bench or don`t have access to one then you won`t know if porting helped or hurt you. Unless you bolt the heads on stock, get a time on the car, remove the heads, port them, bolt`em back on to see if you run quicker at the drag strip and who wants to do that? I also don`t recommend having larger 1.94 valves installed unless you have the chamber deshrouded, and after having it deshrouded is only going to raise the CC count up on the chambers. If you plan to use a thin steel shim head gasket have the heads skim milled to assure flatness, as if they aren`t flat leakage will occur. This is why basic fel pro gaskets are .041 thickness, they compensate for the head not being as flat as it could be.
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