[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by SSedan64

Cobalt, all the sites I've looked through don't show the 624 as a 305ci head??

Maybe a CarCraft misprint or that site.

THAT wouldn't surprise me!

Thanks for the info.

[v8fbrx7]

ok you guys scared me there, in case you forgot 462624 is the casting number on my current heads lol and if someone was about to say that those weren't that bad of heads i'd be pissed because i just dropped off the 305 heads at the shop today, but those sites that Ssedan64 posted all show what mortec.com said where the 624 casting are in fact 76cc heads.

On a side note i did order a HEI today from skip white so i hope that gets here soon and i can get my ignition timing all fixed up i will be ordering a timing tape for my balancer too just to be sure. (no i don't have one maybe thats part of my problem like cobalt 327 is saying lol)
And as far as the filter is concerned the hole for my scoop is only like 8" diameter because my scoop isn't very big, so i HAD a tiny 8" filter on there but all it did was rob even more power believe it or not lol, i think if i had a standard 12-14" drop base aircleaner on there i'd be ok then but i've got to find a bigger scoop first i might do that too, LUCKILY the car is in primer ugly stage so i don't mind doing that.

i REALLY appreciate the help so far!!

[cobalt327]

AFA the 624's- I see the same thing (76 cc), the other was prolly a misprint.

As for checking the cc's- there are syringes available used to measure 2-stroke oil that will work fine. Available in Wal Marts everywhere. The previous conversion I printed was in error.

[jimfulco]

2 ounces = 59cc NOT 75cc

2-1/2 ounces = 74cc

[v8fbrx7]

ok as an update i just got my skip white hei and accel 8.8 spiral core wires for a hell of a deal! just as an fyi this skip white hei is HUGE, i'm definitely gonna need to do something for some clearance. BUT the more i read about hei's the more excited i get to put this on. so i have a few questions now:

1. Is the hei ignition module built in to this distributor? is it worth upgrading if it is? this is the first time i've dealt with hei but from the looks of it theres one inside of it, i could be wrong. Also theres an area to plug in a 2 wire harness which i didn't get so i'm not sure where that goes or if i even use that, some insight here please.

2.With this hei, is the vacuum advance it comes with (i guess) gonna be good enough for what you guys suggested?

i know my questions sound kinda strange but i feel kinda lost here lol plus i'm still figuring out if i'm gonna have either hammer or cut into my firewall to clear this thing lol. thanks again for all the help so far!

[ap72]

Originally Posted by v8fbrx7

ok as an update i just got my skip white hei and accel 8.8 spiral core wires for a hell of a deal! just as an fyi this skip white hei is HUGE, i'm definitely gonna need to do something for some clearance. BUT the more i read about hei's the more excited i get to put this on. so i have a few questions now:

1. Is the hei ignition module built in to this distributor? is it worth upgrading if it is? this is the first time i've dealt with hei but from the looks of it theres one inside of it, i could be wrong. Also theres an area to plug in a 2 wire harness which i didn't get so i'm not sure where that goes or if i even use that, some insight here please.

2.With this hei, is the vacuum advance it comes with (i guess) gonna be good enough for what you guys suggested?

i know my questions sound kinda strange but i feel kinda lost here lol plus i'm still figuring out if i'm gonna have either hammer or cut into my firewall to clear this thing lol. thanks again for all the help so far!

from waht I hear the stock wires are better than those accel ones. Accel is really good at marketing, and tht's about it. Samefor the coil and module. Look up how t wire an HEI online.

[SSedan64]

Originally Posted by v8fbrx7

1. Is the hei ignition module built in to this distributor? is it worth upgrading if it is? this is the first time i've dealt with hei but from the looks of it theres one inside of it, i could be wrong. Also theres an area to plug in a 2 wire harness which i didn't get so i'm not sure where that goes or if i even use that, some insight here please.

2.With this hei, is the vacuum advance it comes with (i guess) gonna be good enough for what you guys suggested?

1. Yes, Modules under Rotor, should be HiPer. There's 2 spade terminals should be marked "Battery" & "Tach", need 12V to Batt. Can use Spade terminals or buy the harness connector pigtail.
2. Yes, should be an adjustable Vacuum canister. Look inside port where hose connects for allen head or screw head.

[airboat]

I would sure check to see if I could exchange it for something smaller like THIS ONE . You would need to run a module or CDI box seperate but I sure wouldn't start cutting apart my firewall to fit a HEI.

[v8fbrx7]

Originally Posted by SSedan64

1. Yes, Modules under Rotor, should be HiPer. There's 2 spade terminals should be marked "Battery" & "Tach", need 12V to Batt. Can use Spade terminals or buy the harness connector pigtail.
2. Yes, should be an adjustable Vacuum canister. Look inside port where hose connects for allen head or screw head.

ok now do you mean run a wire straight to the battery?

[SSedan64]

Originally Posted by v8fbrx7

ok now do you mean run a wire straight to the battery?

Should be 12V from a switched & fused circuit. Wire that's hot when ignition switch is turned to on/run. Did you see a Batt/Battery & Tach marking on the coil cover of distributor?

[v8fbrx7]

oh ok i'll just run my current + coil wire to that then, and yeah i saw the coil cover top i see the markings now, should be pretty straightforward i'd really like to get this installed this weekend if my firewall permits it lol

[ericnova72]

Quick and easy firewall mod for distributor clearance - Get yourself a 5-6" stainless steel or aluminum salad or cereal bowl from Walmart, K-Mart, etc. Make sure you get one with a lip edge. Cut a hole in the firewall behind the distributor for the bowl part of the bowl to fit into and use the lip to rivet, screw, or weld and finish work it. Makes a very nice pocket for the distributor, looks very good, better than hammer dents!!

Technique works for lots of things, have seen a bread loaf pan used to build a shifter tower on the driveshaft tunnel, and a dash insert. Don't overlook small loaf pans, cake pans, etc.

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by v8fbrx7

oh ok i'll just run my current + coil wire to that

This will only work right if the supply wire ISN'T a resistor wire- the HEI has to get full battery current.

Being that your RX7 was an electronic ignition, you may be fine- but check the coil wire's voltage and compare that to the actual voltage across the battery terminals.

The only difference should be the (slight) current drop caused by the wire length. If there's excessive difference between the original coil feed wire and the battery, you need to find another switched 12VDC source or remove the resistance of the original wire.

Good luck.

[v8fbrx7]

Originally Posted by ericnova72

Quick and easy firewall mod for distributor clearance - Get yourself a 5-6" stainless steel or aluminum salad or cereal bowl from Walmart, K-Mart, etc. Make sure you get one with a lip edge. Cut a hole in the firewall behind the distributor for the bowl part of the bowl to fit into and use the lip to rivet, screw, or weld and finish work it. Makes a very nice pocket for the distributor, looks very good, better than hammer dents!!

Technique works for lots of things, have seen a bread loaf pan used to build a shifter tower on the driveshaft tunnel, and a dash insert. Don't overlook small loaf pans, cake pans, etc.

nice good thinking. i'll look into it my problem is my hoodlatch is also on the firewall there as long as the distributor is below that i'll be ok

This will only work right if the supply wire ISN'T a resistor wire- the HEI has to get full battery current.

Being that your RX7 was an electronic ignition, you may be fine- but check the coil wire's voltage and compare that to the actual voltage across the battery terminals.

The only difference should be the (slight) current drop caused by the wire length. If there's excessive difference between the original coil feed wire and the battery, you need to find another switched 12VDC source or remove the resistance of the original wire.

Good luck.

ok thanks i'll be sure to double check this

[v8fbrx7]

ok well as an update i've gotten my 305 heads back from the shop, they apparently milled it .006 which i told em to mill as much as you need to make it flat. SO i've been playing around on desktop dyno and after inputting all these factors including the milling of the head and the head gasket 1094, i'm looking at a 10.66:1 compression ratio, thats crazy lol what octane will i have to run with this ?

Anyways while i was at it i'd researched a different cam to put in it and i opted for the comp cams xe256h which definitely made my powerband alot more appealing. according to this program i'll be going from :

current setup (8.19:1 comp, #462 heads milled .010, .040 gasket, summit 1104 cam, stock manifolds)
214hp@5000 and 253ft/lbs tq @4000

new setup (10.66:1 comp, 305 heads milled .006, 1094 gasket, xe256 cam, headers):
310hp@5000 and 361ft/lbs tq@3500
wow lol i'm pretty excited for this setup