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  #91 (permalink)  
Old 03-26-2010, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8fbrx7
ok well after reading that tutorial its saying to use one medium and one heavy spring for the mechanical advance, BUT when i do that it gives too much advance with the stock vacuum advance canister so i need an adjustable one right?
IF the overadvance is occurring when the vac advance is "active", then yes. You can make a blocking piece for the vac advance that limits the travel, as well.

This is from F-BIRD'88:


What you're looking at is the purple-lined drawing of the part that is atop the vac advance arm. Ignore the locked out advance- that (locked out adv.) is not what you want.

You might want to try both heavy aftermarket springs to see if they help enough to delay the advance- but not if they cause the advance to come in too late. It's trial and error, but you're on the right track!

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  #92 (permalink)  
Old 04-06-2010, 08:55 PM
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so will this be what i need? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G5212/
i have a skip white HEI

they didn't have the crane kit in stock and my points dizzy vacuum advance canister took a crap on me today so tomorrow night starts the overhauling, got the 1094 gaskets today.

thanks again!
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  #93 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2010, 12:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8fbrx7
ok well after reading that tutorial its saying to use one medium and one heavy spring for the mechanical advance, BUT when i do that it gives too much advance with the stock vacuum advance canister so i need an adjustable one right?
You cannot get the correct advance curve by just swapping weights and springs. You must physically limit the mechanical advance travel stop.
Or you will get excessive advance at high rpm.

If you want increased idle spark advance for good throttle respoce you need to limit the mechanical advance stop limit or it will over advance at high rpm.

Most of the stock vacuum advances are too much also. Limit them also.
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  #94 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2010, 07:25 PM
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ok i think i'm starting to understand that now lol. well as an update i'm ALMOST done putting my engine back together after doing my cam/heads swap after many headaches/hangups so i'll post what i think about the outcome which after all this mess it better be nothing short of amazing lol
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  #95 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2010, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8fbrx7
ok i think i'm starting to understand that now lol. well as an update i'm ALMOST done putting my engine back together after doing my cam/heads swap after many headaches/hangups so i'll post what i think about the outcome which after all this mess it better be nothing short of amazing lol
Can't wait to hear about how it turns out. That's a pretty cool project you have going on!
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  #96 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2010, 09:56 PM
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on a different note, my exhaust...i want to run my headers but i've been contemplating redoing my entire exhaust while i'm at it because its SUPER loud in the car. plus i'm not sure if a 2.5 y-ed to a 3 inch exhaust is killing my low end torque as well, any insight on this? theres NO way i can run duals on my car.
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  #97 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2010, 05:53 PM
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ok well everything is installed...and i cant get the damn thing to start, it took forever to even act like it was going to start and it did for a short time almost fire up but nothing since...what the hell? whats the deal?
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  #98 (permalink)  
Old 04-10-2010, 07:46 PM
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You only need 3 things to run.

Compression,, fuel and spark. One is missing.

check each cylinder for compression (valves too tight)

check the spark advance. probabily way retarded. check the spark, should be a stong blue spark ground the engine to the body

Old gas?

A 2.5" dual into a 3" main exhaust pipe with a proper Y merge (flowmaster Y250300) and good muffler (Magnaflow, Dynomax) will not be restrictive. If done right the low end and top end will be very good.

you can fit a 2.5" into 3.5" system on this car too.
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Old 04-11-2010, 05:42 PM
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well i just did a compression check and here are the results...
cyl 1 - 70
3- 120
5-115
7-120
2- 120
4- 120
6 -110
8- 90

......***....... is it those ****in head gaskets? or are the heads messed up? i don't wanna put the old heads back on which might be my only option this is my daily
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  #100 (permalink)  
Old 04-12-2010, 12:51 AM
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The valves are not sealing. You need a valve job. or a ring job.

add compressed air to each cylinder and listen at the oil cap (ring seal)

Down the carb (intake valves) at the tail pipe (exhaust valves) for escaping air.
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  #101 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2010, 05:14 PM
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engine was rebuilt no more than 10k ago, and the heads got new valve springs, seals, milling and a valvejob from the machine shop, gonna try a normal material head gasket as the block surface might not be smooth enough to run a metal head gasket.
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  #102 (permalink)  
Old 04-13-2010, 08:49 PM
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are ya sure the valves aren't to tight? one could put air pressure to the cyl and find out really quick where all of the compression loss is going...LMAO never mind just seen F-Bird already said that
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  #103 (permalink)  
Old 04-14-2010, 05:34 PM
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well put the non metal head gaskets on and put everything back together, did a compression check. NO change. heads need redone AGAIN.............***
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  #104 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2011, 10:01 PM
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back from the dead...well for some reason beyond my knowledge, after this i reinstalled my 76cc heads and the car fired right up, i have no clue why it ran but it did lol. although about mid summer last year i ended up fouling out spark plugs really quick and did a leakdown test and found a crap load of compression loss and it coming out of the valve cover...so i guess the 307 was shot. now heres my dilemma. i've torn down the car to do other mods (ford 9 inch) and to redo somethings ive done cuz its not my daily anymore. I scored a cheap 283 off a local here which the ring gap isn't almost out of spec like the 307 was when i put it together. heres my question. should i attempt to put the 416 heads on the 283 because i don't wanna drop my CR even MORE than with the 307 with the 76cc heads lol. and would the cam and everything work well together? to review since its 6 pages back it would be now:
283
416 heads
summit 1104 cam
performer rpm intake and a holley 600? what kinda numbers am i looking at with this setup?

the other option i was considering was a 3030 solid lift cam with the 76cc heads, according to DD it would make some nice numbers but i'd rather hear some knowledge thats been actually used instead of a program lol

Last edited by v8fbrx7; 05-01-2011 at 10:10 PM.
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  #105 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2011, 11:13 PM
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The 416's will work on the 283. A "30-30 cam" is a really bad choice.
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