[PatM]

Hi Guys
I have an SBC engine, fully assembled and mounted in my project pickup. I used a factory dipstick tube. Today, trying to mount the headers, I found I needed to remove the tube. As I recall, I put it in with Permatex #1. Probably a bigger mistake than I ever thought. I didn't want the dipstick to leak. Anyway, the Tube buckled during removal, so I cut it off with a pair of tin snips.

Does anyone out there know of a great way to remove this tube without having to re-open the motor to clean everything up??

I really need some of you expert's help.

Pat

[78 monte]

If its still sticking out a bit grab it with vise grips.
If its not maybe take an old screw driver and bend the tip at a right angle insert it into the dipstick hole and see if you can grab the edge of the tube and pull it out by tapping the handle up with a small hammer.Move the driver around in a circle so it comes out evanly.I think theres also an insert piece in there though so make sure your on the edge of the dipstick tube and not the insert.Also use a screwdriver that the tip won't break off of and land in the pan then your screwed,take the pan off.

[jimfulco]

Try a 5/16" bolt, or whatever size will thread into the top of the tube. Thread it into the tube as far as you can, then either pull it out with pliers, or slip a small open-end wrench over the bolt shaft & tap it upward with a hammer or a piece of pipe.

[k-star]

If there is still a part of the tube left stick a proper size bolt into it, then clamp vise grips around the out side of the tube,the bolt will support the tube so it does not crush. Then you should be able to wiggle it out... if it is broken off flush with the block then you will need to get some threads into it to screw a bolt in it... i put a little grease on the tap and run it in a few threads. The grease will keep the chips from falling into the engine....Install a bolt and remove the tube...


Keith

[PatM]

Thanks to all who responded. I particuly like the "use a screw to support the tube so it doesn't crush" idea. I'll try some of this over the next couple days. Again, thanks to all.

Pat

[58Chev]

Heat it up a bit with a propane torch just before prying upward.

[PatM]

And 58 Chev gets the keystone award. . . . . . For the "key" bit of info for a successful extraction.

I tried any number of ways to support the tube and turn it, but I was unable to make it move (fear of doing more damage what with that permatex being so damn effective). Then I decided to try 58 Chev's idea and looked for my old propane tourch, couldn't find it, went to OSH for a new one. But one look at the flame, and the thought of those AFR heads right behind the dipstick tube, and my fear increased. So I saturated a shop rag with water and wrapped it between the cylinder head and the dipstick stub. Clamped a vice grip on the stub (over an easyout) and began heating the tube below the visegrip. When the shop rag started looking like it might flare, I tried turning the stub. Viola! Pulled that sucker right out.

This web site is great for getting the little hints and helps that we all need from time to time. Thanks to all, but particularly to 58 Chev.

Pat

[58Chev]

PatM,
Your welcome...
Glad to hear ya got it out. I've got the problem of my dipstick tube not staying in place.

Heat has always been my freind.

[jimfulco]

I have one that slipped around so bad it would just spin around in the block. I took it out and tapped the bottom part just a tiny bit out of round, and now it's semi-tight (only moves when you move it).

[PatM]

Depending on how much satying power you want from the tube, consider the #1 Permatex. This stuff was like iron until I put the heat to it. My sense was that I was right at the point that the tube's stub would buckle (in torsion), so I gave up on trying until I tried the heat. Made all the difference.

Pat

[78 monte]

Originally Posted by PatM

Depending on how much satying power you want from the tube, consider the #1 Permatex.

Oh sure!!Pass the problem on!! LOL j/k