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Old 06-11-2007, 08:45 AM
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Compressor - Direct drive or Belt driven

Hey guys, so I've been thinking of moving my compressor into the basement (instead of the garage) but im afraid that it will be to loud. As a result I was thinking of purchasing a new quieter compressor (if possible). It has to be 110v as my circuit panel is full (space is also limited).

I heard that the belt driven units are quieter then the direct drive compressors, also more reliable. True, false? I'm also wondering if the IR unit puts out more "true" rated output (they both claim to be 5.7@90psi).

Also, anyone know the RPM on the IR unit?

I currently own a King Canada unit:

* Durable oil lubricated pump
* Cast-iron sleeve
* 125 PSI Max. output pressure
* 115 PSI Operating pressure
* ASME tank and Safety Valve
* 1/4 Universal one touch quick coupler
* Convenient reset feature
* Air pressure regulator and easy to read pressure gauges
* Model: 8498
* Motor: 5 Peak HP
* Air Delivery @ 40 PSI: 7.4 SCFM
* Air Delivery @ 90 PSI: 5.7 SCFM
* Tank Size: 20 Gal
* Motor amperage: 14.5 Amp
* RPM: 3,400
* Voltage: 110V, 1 phase, 60 Hz
* Dimensions (LxWxH): 17 x 17 x 50
* Weight: 110 lbs





Looking to possibly purchase the following:

* Motor: 2 HP/ 5 Peak HP - single phase motor
* Volts: 110 Volts
* PSI: 5.7 CFM @ 90 PSI; 4.9 CFM @ 135 PSI
* Max PSI: 135 PSI
* Tank Size: 24 gallon vertical
* Durable cast-iron construction
* Pump: Single stage splash lubricated belt drive pump
* Air Outlet: 3/8" NPT
* 100% continuous duty
* Noise level: 75-80dB
* Pressure switch
* Pressure gauge
* Regulator, safety valve, manual drain and 6ft. power cord
* Meets OSHA standards
* Drain System: Manual Drain
* Start Up Kit: 97338099, sold separately
* Dimensions: 23in.L x 25in.W x 51in.H
* U.S.A.
* Model SS3R2-GM



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Last edited by mikeweb; 06-12-2007 at 12:44 PM.
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Old 06-11-2007, 09:57 AM
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Belt drive hands down, much better compressor. The direct drive units are usually bargain pieces and not designed for long life. They operate at too high an RPM and are way too loud. Go with a belt drive unit, you will never regret it. My next door neighbor has a direct drive compressor and when it comes on I can hear it over the radio in my garage. It must border on unbearable in his garage.

Vince
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Old 06-11-2007, 10:27 AM
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Comparing that first outfit to that little Ingersoll is like comparing a jackhammer compressor to a tire pump! For a 110 volt compressor that IR is not a bad outfit at all and if you are limited to 110 volts that is your only real choice.
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Old 06-12-2007, 02:04 AM
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good points, I should of just spent my money on a good unit the first time around.

Quick questions...

1) It's going to run me $670CDN after tx (about $631.19USD after tx), is this a decent price?

2) How do you calculate the output at 40psi? (5.7 CFM @ 90 PSI; 4.9 CFM @ 135 PSI)

3) What does "100% continuous duty" mean?

Last edited by mikeweb; 06-12-2007 at 02:14 AM.
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Old 06-12-2007, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeweb

3) What does "100% continuous duty" mean?
It means the compressor can be run continuously without a break for cooling off.

Vince
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Old 06-12-2007, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 302 Z28
It means the compressor can be run continuously without a break for cooling off.

Vince
And that is far more important than most people realize, especially on a small compressor.
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Old 06-12-2007, 06:34 PM
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I guess if the 110v unit will do the jobs you are going to require - that looks like a good unit.

If best thing about any 110v unit is it's portability - if this isn't a requirement and you have the additional funds, why not wire a 120amp sub panel off and get a 220V compressor that will handle anything you can throw at it?

Air is something you can never have enough of in a shop and if you have too little it can really limit what you can do down the road.
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Old 06-13-2007, 04:43 AM
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Its just for recreational home use (wheel changes, suspension, ect) or just when I feel like tinkering with my car.

I was thinking of running hard lines into my garage but it will be about a 100ft run, which is best 1/2" or 3/4"? No sense in spending more money on 3/4" copper pipe if 1/2" will do (pressure drop)

Oh, I found this info on Ingersoll's site, does anyone know if the ACFM is "Actual" or "Assisted (Tank Assisted)"?

http://www.irtools.com/IS/modelComp_full.asp?item=3054
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Old 06-13-2007, 05:55 AM
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Pay no attention to the "assisted" CFM rating, it is meaningless. All your after is a good SCFM rating.

Vince
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Old 06-13-2007, 06:43 AM
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That most likely is the "actual" CFM rating and is pretty much interchangeable with SCFM (not exactly the same thing since they are arrived at differently but will be very close) because "Assisted" CFM would be ridiculously high. The manufacturers jumped on that one a couple of years ago when the "peak" non-sense started to catch up with them so they tried another trick disguised as a legit term, puzzling as it might seem Ingersoll did this on several models sold at Tractor Supply and Northern tool. The terms ACFM (when used correctly) and SCFM will have even the engineers arguing as to which is the more accurate way to measure output and that is why you will find ACFM (actual) on one brand and SCFM on another. IMO SCFM is the most meaningful rating and is the most commonly accepted method but as I said ACFM (actual) is so close to the same thing it works ok too. But as 302 said pay no attention to "assisted" CFM it is pure non-sense and if you see that on a compressor avoid the thing because if they are that dishonest about the ratings what else are they hiding? Fortunately this "assisted" thing seems to have backfired on them and it does not seem to be very common anymore.
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Old 06-13-2007, 08:05 PM
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Hopefully IR's numbers are true.

One thing puzzles me, which is better.. a full cast iron pump or a cast iron sleeve with aluminum fins?

I take it the aluminum pump would run cooler as it would dissipate heat faster? or am I off base on that assumption.

Last edited by mikeweb; 06-13-2007 at 08:16 PM.
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Old 06-14-2007, 05:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeweb
Hopefully IR's numbers are true.

One thing puzzles me, which is better.. a full cast iron pump or a cast iron sleeve with aluminum fins?

I take it the aluminum pump would run cooler as it would dissipate heat faster? or am I off base on that assumption.

Either one will be just fine on a quality compressor. There is a bit of a misunderstanding about Aluminum pumps in that some people assume that all Aluminum pumps are built cheaply and will wear out quickly. This is not necessarily so and some good pumps (Rol-Air for example) use Aluminum for single stage models. An Aluminum pump with cast iron sleeves would have the cylinder wear advantage of all cast iron without the weight plus it would tend to cool easier. Of the three designs, all cast iron, all Aluminum, or sleeved Aluminum the sleeved designs cost the most to build and would seem to have a combination of the most desirable traits but a quality built pump of any design is likely to last a long time while a cheaply built pump probably won't last long no matter what it is made from.
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Old 06-14-2007, 09:26 PM
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In answer to your question about CFM@40psi. I saw an almost identical Northern Tool compressor on display next to the IR Garage Mate today and it had nearly the same specs (1.8hp and 5.7cfm @90psi). At 40psi it put out 7.0 CFM.
FWIW, It was also 200 bucks cheaper at $299 vs $499 for the IR.
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Old 06-15-2007, 06:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fireboat
FWIW, It was also 200 bucks cheaper at $299 vs $499 for the IR.
It may seem cheaper now but in a couple of years it will not seem like much of a bargain. That IR is built to last and the Northern is built cheap to sell cheap and while it may perform very similar to the IR at first it will not be long at all before it will start to take longer and longer to recharge the tank, that is if those flimsy reed valves hold out long enough, if the pressure switch don't fail, if the rod will stay attached to the crank, etc.
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Old 07-01-2007, 07:29 PM
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Still waiting for my IR unit to arrive, the suspense is killing me

Quick question for you guys, has anyone taken the air filter intake and run it from outside? I was reading over this post and figured that it wasn't such a bad idea (decrease in noise), although I am wondering if it puts more strain on the compressor.

Also wondering, as I only use the compressor once a week (sometimes every two weeks) there is no sense in keeping the tank full. Should I drain the tank and leave the valve open, or close it after draining?



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