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Old 06-13-2010, 09:36 PM
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Direct drive, converter only, no gear box

Has anyone done a setup without gear box, only the torque converter to direct drive the rear wheels?

I want such a thing to drive a very ligth dune buggy, think of it like a big yard kart, a 4 cylinder yard kart exactly.

I was thinking of using a centrifugal clutch but then I tougth a torque converter would be better, it does the job of allowing the car to stop and also multiplies the torque to take off better.

Would I need a pump or just filling up the converter to a certain level of oil would be enough? of course with the pump I could run an oil cooler.

making a support for the input shaft and stator holder would be no problem, but how would the converter work for this aplication?

thanks for your advise.

Augusto.

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Old 06-13-2010, 10:16 PM
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early power glides were direct drive in "2". but that's the only thing I know of being direct drive
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Old 06-13-2010, 11:14 PM
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actually most older trannys are direct drive in top gear, but what I want to do is not using the transmission body at all, I want to get rid of the bulk of the case, just bolt the converter to the engine and the input shaft to the rear axle.
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Old 06-13-2010, 11:29 PM
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Make life easy on yourself and use a circlematic Powerglide..about as simple as one can get..

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Old 06-13-2010, 11:34 PM
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unless you feel you'll never need to back it up I'd use a small trans. of some sort. I don't like pushing things that much.

Tony
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Old 06-13-2010, 11:57 PM
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no no, I think I didn't explain well, I don't have room for a tranny, the engine goes sideways and a chain from the crank drives the sprocket of the axle.

have you ever seen a go-kart? a centrifugal clutch resting on the crank drives a chain that goes to the rear axle, this project is just like them, only a bit bigger, tranny is not needed or desired, excess bulk and weigth not needed.

I havent found a centrifugal clutch big enough for the 4 cylinder engine, about 75+hp, so maybe a fluid coupling could be the answer.
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Old 06-14-2010, 12:26 AM
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mod the torque converter setup to work from a sled.. get 1 from like a 800. some of those engines put out 120-160 hp
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Old 06-14-2010, 12:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt167
mod the torque converter setup to work from a sled.. get 1 from like a 800. some of those engines put out 120-160 hp
My thoughts exactly..there are some snowmobile drives that can handle that..

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Old 06-14-2010, 06:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt167
mod the torque converter setup to work from a sled.. get 1 from like a 800. some of those engines put out 120-160 hp
that's a pretty good idea, the only problem is that in the middle of the world finding a honest politician would be easier than finding a snowmobile.
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Old 06-15-2010, 12:28 PM
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Could you use a regular clutch? Do you have room for a bell housing? Use a slave cylinder to activate it....and there's nothing like bringing up the rpm and dumping the clutch!
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Old 06-15-2010, 08:21 PM
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for what I have already found and learned seems like your idea is my only choice, sure dumping the clutch feels great, too bad I wanted the lazy man way with an automatic clutch but seems quite complicated.

I was studying carefully a TH350's powerflow and mechanicals and I'm sure I could make it work but probably it will be too much work and maybe quite unreliable, the clutch on the other hand is pretty easy, I would just need to modify an input shaft and install a bearing to support it at the bellhousing, install a sprocket in place of the gear and ready to rock.

it would also take about the same room as the converter setup would have used.

Augusto.
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Old 06-16-2010, 01:35 PM
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I believe I'd set up a lawn mower style belt drive with a pulley on the crank, a pulley on the axle, and a spring loaded tensioner pulley operated by a clutch pedal. Obviously you'd want to set it up on a larger scale (maybe multi-groove pulleys and several belts) but it seems to me like it would work fine for a lightweight buggy.

Tony
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Old 06-16-2010, 02:36 PM
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A regular converter or direct clutch will only give you one option - direct drive to engine speed. A snowmobile setup will give you a constant variable reduction setup and be way more useful/fun. Good low end as well as top end where the direct drive will load up on take off with no low end power unless geared low, then there's no top end. I'd look hard for that setup. Honest politicians are all dead, but there's still some snowmobiles to be had. Shipping for the drivetrain alone can't be that bad.
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Old 06-18-2010, 03:43 PM
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Hi, Porsche two and three cylinder Tractors ,yes the same" Porsche " used a self contained fluid coupling that was very light Aluminimum item that bolted to a massive cast iron flywheel also on the same tractors was a foot operated clutch using a conventional clutch assembly.
That fluid coupling could be used on its own for a set up like you describe.I have seen similar set ups on fork lift trucks amongst other machinery using fluid couplings as well allthough not as light or compact as the tractor unit described above. Porsche sold those tractors Worldwide in that era.
Another solution to consider would be to bolt a sprocket onto the crankshaft flange (instead of the flywheel +clutch assembly) And put a clutch mechanism onto the Axle, that way your transverse mounted engine is kept very narrow and compact.
A 60 Tooth on the 75 hp engine and a 15 tooth on the axle using 630 motorbike chain would be a starting combination.
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Old 06-18-2010, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cranky1
Could you use a regular clutch? Do you have room for a bell housing? Use a slave cylinder to activate it....and there's nothing like bringing up the rpm and dumping the clutch!
That's what I was thinking. Isn't that how sprint-cars are set up?
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