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Old 07-18-2010, 08:52 PM
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Disc brake conversion problem

I installed a new disc brake conversion kit on my 1967 firebird. It's a disc/disc setup from Classic performance. All the lines are new as well as m/c, 9" booster and proportioning valve. The rear calipers are cam style e-brake calipers.
Ok enough of background here's my problem. To begin with I had no pedal b/c I did not have the ebrake set correctly. Got that fixed now I pedal ( not great but there) now when I start the engine I have ok pedal but when I rev the engine I lose all pedal. The engine is pulling 11" vac at idle and 15" at 2500 rpm. What should i be looking for?

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Old 07-19-2010, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducrider123
I installed a new disc brake conversion kit on my 1967 firebird. It's a disc/disc setup from Classic performance. All the lines are new as well as m/c, 9" booster and proportioning valve. The rear calipers are cam style e-brake calipers.
Ok enough of background here's my problem. To begin with I had no pedal b/c I did not have the ebrake set correctly. Got that fixed now I pedal ( not great but there) now when I start the engine I have ok pedal but when I rev the engine I lose all pedal. The engine is pulling 11" vac at idle and 15" at 2500 rpm. What should i be looking for?
First you need to validate all the calipers are installed correctly. Bleeder screws at the top. Once you have verified that, you need to bleed the system to remove all the air. If you still have issues the easiest way to resolve them is to isolate the 2 systems(front and rear) to see where the issue is. You can do this by removing a line from the master cylinder and inserting a plug to test the front and rear brake systems separately.

Generally a no brake issue on a new system is due to improper bleeding , improper caliper installation or defective parts, in that order
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Old 07-19-2010, 10:40 AM
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before you put the M/C on did you bench bleed it? if you didnt , start there and take it off and bench bleed it.then continue to bleed the rear of the system, starting farthest from the M/C, which is the passenger side rear then go to driver side rear, then pass front , the driver front last.
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Old 07-22-2010, 04:39 PM
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ok I verified the calipers are on correctly. I set the emergency brake calipers. and in the morning I am going to bleed the brakes using a vacuum bleeder. and see if that helps. I do have one question: I have heard of air getting trapped in the master cylinder if the nose of the m/c is pointed up. Instead of removing the master cylinder totally can i just tilt the nose of it down and vac bleed the brakes to remove the possible air? I did bench bleed the m/c before i installed it.
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Old 07-22-2010, 08:53 PM
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The tech guy from classic performance just called me back and said I need to drill a new pivot hole 1" lower the the one on the pedal now. I measured the lever and it is 13" long and the original hole was 3" down now I put it 4" down . I now have a harder pedal now, but I can lengthen the rod for a longer throw. Is this a bad idea?
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