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Old 02-23-2004, 12:11 PM
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Wink Disk Brake Conversion 64 Galaxie

Hey! I'm gonna swap out the drum brake on my 64 galaxie country sedan and step up to some disk brakes.

I'm looking for the proper interchange spindles.

I've heard that 74-79 t-bird, cougar, and torino are good for the 4 1/2" bolt pattern and the 74-79 Linclon is the car to look for for the 5" bolt pattern.

How can I tell what my bolt pattern is?

I've got 5 bolts, and when i measure between any 2 bolt I don't come up with either 4.5" 5".

Thanks
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Old 02-23-2004, 12:37 PM
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Exclamation

BROOKLYN?

You have the 4 1/2" bolt circle. You have two ways to go (well three actually).
  • GRANADA/MONARCH-MAVERICK/COMET

    Which will give you about a 1 1/2" drop but the spindles need to be modified (60.00 FATMAN FABRICATIONS)...
  • The seventies intermediates which is a direct bolt-on...

    73/ TORINO/MONTEGO-TBIRD/COUGAR-ELITE-LTD II of that period...
  • 65/67 TBIRD spindles which will give you the four piston KELSEY-HAYES calipers for that resto-high performance look...
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Old 02-23-2004, 12:51 PM
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Rocken!

Thanks man.
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Old 02-23-2004, 10:17 PM
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Thumbs up

Get a load of this 'ol boy's conversion;

http://www.fordmuscle.com/phpBB/view...orum=6&start=0

He has race car on the mind doesn't he?

Nice conversion...
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Old 03-31-2004, 03:22 PM
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Galaxie Donors ?

This is pretty close to all the article that appered in Car Craft a couple of years ago when Marlan Davis was still there. Most of it was gleaned from the Galaxie clubs members and discussion group. Good luck, Phil

============================================
<< Forwarded >>
> John's right, stay away from the Granada / Monarch spindles. They are different and can lead to alignment difficulties.

> The Full sized and Intermediate cars (all "FULL FRAMED" cars)
> however, all share the SAME spindle assemblies.
> #D4AZ-3105A (right) and #D4AZ-3106A (left).
> These came on:
> * 74-76= "Full size" Ford, Merc.& T-bird
> * 74-76= Montego & Torino Elite'
> * 74-76= Meteor
> * 77-79= Cougar & T-Bird (Interm.)
> * 77-79= LTD II & Ranchero
(From-Mitchell Interchange)
>
> The Full size cars DO have larger rotors (11.8), but use the big 5"bolt pattern. (on 73 & later) The Intermediate cars use a slightly smaller rotor (10.720) but the same 4 1/2" pattern you have.
All of these cars, Full size and Intermediate, use the SAME pad, and the SAME 3 & 3/32" bore caliper.
Also the cars in the Intermediate size are about the same weight class as your Galaxie. (approx. 3600 to 4100 lbs.) The big cars are a little heavier.(3600-4800 lbs.) Chilton's.

> So, if you're just wanting to upgrade to modern disc brakes anddon't need the hassle of dissimilar bolt patterns front and rear, or re-drilling one or the other. Just go with the 77-79 T-Bird or Cougar set-up and be done. (These are the easiest ones to find complete)
> You can run 14 or 15 inch wheels with these.
> The MAIN thing is to get EVERYTHING from the same donor and there shouldn't be any component mismatches.

>Subject: Master cylinders to use



Subject: Re: Disc brakes again,and again.


Joe,
I used a manual master on my 64. Works great! If you are of above average build and not worried about leg strength, then I would prefer a manual system... The master cylinder is from 81-87 full size Ford/Merc products and bolts right onto the firewall. The replacement kit even includes the proper length pushrod! I would buy a new one as they are only a few
dollars more than a rebuilt unit.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Extra's


Don,
AS long as you are going to use 15" wheels, this will work well for your car, and the 11 3/4" rotor is very attractive.
The spindles, rotors and calipers come from a 70-72 full sized Ford/ Merc donor car. The top of the tie rod mount at the spindle has to be machined 1/8" so the stud on the outer rod end sticks thru far enough to get the cotter pin into the castle nut. Everything else bolts on.

The master cyl I am using is out of an 81-87 Ford full sized car, in
manual mode [no power booster]. Interestingly enough I bought a new master and the kit included a push rod which was the exact length for the job... fits
perfectly.
And the master bolts right onto the fire wall. You want to install a dual bowl master to enhance safety.

The brake lines will have to be replumbed, and you will have to add a "T" block to accept the old brake light solenoid for your brake lights. I put mine into the front line. Also plumb an adjustable proportioning valve into the rear line so that you can balance the system properly and not have to worry about a non- adjustable valve working correctly.

The last piece to buy are a pair of brake hoses from a 77 Ford Bronco. You will have to file the metal block that goes to the caliper to make it fit properly, and also bend the tube coming out of the block slightly to accommodate the swing of the spindle assembly as you turn your car....you
will understand what I mean when you get things put together... The hose was selected for it's length and proper ends.
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Old 04-19-2004, 08:52 AM
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Let me clarify a few things on this brake upgrade;

The actual spindle you want for this swap is from a 74/78 FORD/MERC. Casting I.D. Nos D4AW 3107-AA (RH) D4AW 3108-AA (LH) -74/79 Intermediate- 74/79 BIRD. The 74/77 BIRD was not an intermediate but used the same spindle. It had 5 on 5 bolt pattern and used the larger rotor 11 13/16" (as did FORD/MERC/LINC).

Now, if you want a setup with the 5 on 4 1/2" bolt circle with the smaller rotor (10 3/4"), it narrows your choice. The complete setup will have to come from an intermediate (74/76 Torino-Gran Torino-ELITE- 74/76 Montego- 74/79 COUGAR- 77/79 LTD II/BIRD.

One word of caution- The 73/75 TORINO PC used the larger rotors as did some of the 74/76 ELITE.

The larger rotors used a different caliper mounting bracket so also keep this in mind. The larger rotor also used a LINC caliper but the piston size is the same.

The center hub snout was also increased in size in 1973 I believe it was. So you will either have to have the snout machined down to accept the early wheels (must be disc brake wheels...special offset) or find a set of origional intermediate 14" wheels D3OZ 1007-A (these were used on low trim TORINOS).

So now you know that both systems used the same spindle and just made a few changes to mount whatever size rotor they needed. This may help some of you that can't find a complete donor and have to pick and choose with whatever is left over.

This stuff can get confusing and I don't want anyone to have a bad day in the junk yard fighting bumbly bees and getting home to find they have the wrong setup...



Am Looking For Factory/Aftermarket Speed Parts For The MEL (Merc-Edsel-Linc-TBird) Engine Family (383-410-430-462) Produced From 1958 To 1968

Also Early FORD Special Service Tools
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Old 04-24-2004, 02:22 PM
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Thanks for all the help.

Ok. So here is the status on the project. I've got a pair of spindles from a 78 Cougar, and i've got them all rebuilt and ready to go. I've also got some 14 inch 5-4.5 rims on the way. So I'm pretty much all set there.

Just spent the morning looking over the brake line and master cylinder situations.

First up, Master Cylinder.
I thought that the mc that I got off the 78 cougar would just bolt straight into the firewall where the original one came out, but no such luck. The bolts on the new mc are spaced approximately 1 inch wider in both dimensions... So the question is, was I naive about the simple bolt on idea and need to drill out new mounting holes... which i imagine should also get some kind of new reenforcement, or do I just have the wrong mc?

Second. Proportioning Valve
Assuming that the mc that I'm going to use is either the one I've got, or similar to the one I've got, it has two lines coming off of it. One with a bigger nut on the back and one with a smaller nut on the front (both on the passenger side of the mc) I've also got the proportioning valve that came off the cougar which I was planing to use as is. It looks to me like the pv has got 2 ins and 3 outs which seems about right for the new mc. I'm assuming that the two identical outs on the top on either side of the brake light sensor are for the front and the out on the bottom goes to the back. Just wanted to make sure.

Either way, it seems like I'm going to have to get a brake like kit and do a pretty complete re-plumbing... at least of the front end, to get everything to fit... Am i missing something here?

Bill
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Old 04-24-2004, 04:39 PM
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This is from Customcabs' post above;

Quote:
The master cyl I am using is out of an 81-87 Ford full sized car, in manual mode [no power booster]. Interestingly enough I bought a new master and the kit included a push rod which was the exact length for the job... fits perfectly. And the master bolts right onto the fire wall. You want to install a dual bowl master to enhance safety.

The brake lines will have to be replumbed, and you will have to add a "T" block to accept the old brake light solenoid for your brake lights. I put mine into the front line. Also plumb an adjustable proportioning valve into the rear line so that you can balance the system properly and not have to worry about a non- adjustable valve working correctly.

The last piece to buy are a pair of brake hoses from a 77 Ford Bronco. You will have to file the metal block that goes to the caliper to make it fit properly, and also bend the tube coming out of the block slightly to accommodate the swing of the spindle assembly as you turn your car....you will understand what I mean when you get things put together... The hose was selected for it's length and proper ends.


See if any of this helps you. If more is needed, just come on back.
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Old 04-26-2004, 08:51 AM
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Klutulz,
Thanks once again. I was totally mixed up on the proprotioning valve. You picture has cleared up everything. Does it matter which line off the mc goes to which input on the top of the pv? I would probebly end up with the front line in front and the back line in back.

CustomCab,
Is there any particular reason that you are not using the power booster?

Bill
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Old 04-26-2004, 11:00 AM
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If you went to the dual reservoir master cylinder, the rear reservoir (the larger of the two) will be for the front discs. This will be routed to the front inlet on the valve. The front reservoir (the smaller of the two) will be for the rear drum. This will be routed to the rear inlet.

Are you using the valve(s) from the COUGAR? The valve shown in the illustration is not a factory piece. You need to at least duplicate the valving on the Cougar.

Let me know what you decide to do.

Quote:
How can I tell what my bolt pattern is?

I've got 5 bolts, and when i measure between any 2 bolt I don't come up with either 4.5" 5".

I should have given you this information also. Getting hard to find good help...

-Wheel Offset And Bolt Pattern Size Measurement-


Last edited by KULTULZ; 04-26-2004 at 11:00 AM.
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Old 05-06-2004, 02:48 AM
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Is this going to be the same swap for my 67 galaxie? Could someone please elaborate on the spindles for the 65/67 t-bird with the 4 piston calipers previously mentioned.
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Old 05-06-2004, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 67 Burnouts

Is this going to be the same swap for my 67 galaxie? Could someone please elaborate on the spindles for the 65/67 t-bird with the 4 piston calipers previously mentioned.


The four piston KELSEY-HAYES disc brake system came stock on the 1967 GALAXY (disc brake option). Basically, all 65/67 FORD, MERC, 67 BIRD (65/66 was slightly different) and 65/69 CONTINENTALS (5 x 5" bolt pattern) used this system, so all but the LINC and 65/66 BIRD will bolt onto your application easily (needs spindles also).

If you want a single piston sliding caliper, you could go to a 68/70 or the intermediate changeover described above.

NOTE: There is a blow-up of the above illustration on my photo gallery.

Last edited by KULTULZ; 05-06-2004 at 05:44 PM.
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Old 05-06-2004, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
The center hub snout was also increased in size in 1973 I believe it was. So you will either have to have the snout machined down to accept the early wheels (must be disc brake wheels...special offset) or find a set of origional intermediate 14" wheels D3OZ 1007-A (these were used on low trim TORINOS).
The rotor hub size was increased on the 1972 model run (TORINO).

The 14'" disc brake wheel I have described above (D3OZ 1007-A) measures 14 x 5 1/2". There was also a 14 x 6" wheel available (stamped steel) D6OZ 1007-A. This will give you a little more tread stability.

There was also a MAGNUM 500 wheel available;

D4OZ 1007-A that had chrome rims and a later version D7OZ 1007-D that had painted rims and used a trim ring for final appearance. Both of course used the center cap and these were available in different decorations, the most popular being the FORD crest on a red background.

Just to help you guys that want to retain the 14" look on your early iron...
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Old 05-12-2004, 07:23 AM
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Argh!

So, I've got all the parts (I think) and all the tools (I think) ... Put the new master cylinder from the 81-87 full sized ford in with no problem at all. Now I'm moving on to the spindles and....

I can't get the spindle to separate from the ball joint!!!!

I've been pickle forking and pickle forking.. Any suggestions. I need to get this old girl back on the road!!!!
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Old 05-16-2004, 06:31 PM
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Ok,

Master cylinder went in smooth like butter. Spindles are swapped out and I'm feelin good.

Two things left.

1. The stock '64 tie rod ends aren't long enough to get through the mounting hole on the spindle and accept the cotter pin. Could someone recommend a tie rod end interchange... or other method?

2. I'm looking around for a place to mount my proportioning valve and the best spot would have it horizontal, not vertical. I assume that this is no problem, but I just wanted to check with y'all.

Thanks,

Bill
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