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Old 11-15-2006, 08:26 PM
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Distributor Caps Keep Burning

I'm running a Accel 52100 Street Billet distributor, Accel wires and AC R44TS plugs in a 77 305 in my 27 roadster. My problem is that the contacts on the Accel cap seem get burned real quick. The latest cap is lucky to have 10 min of running time on it. I'm stumped on this one. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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G

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Old 11-15-2006, 08:46 PM
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glg97,

What I ended up doing to solve this problem is to put a dab of "di-electric grease" on the lugs and the tip of the rotor. Then when the electricty comes through the coil tower through the rotor to the lugs inside the cap there is no longer an air gap to jump and the lugs do not get burnt off.

Good Luck
Scholman
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Old 11-15-2006, 09:10 PM
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Accel <--- There`s the problem.
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Old 11-15-2006, 09:30 PM
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What wires are you running, they should be resistor type. Also the timming for the rotor to the pickup maybe off. This is more noticable at idle most of the time..

You can buy a clear cap and check the timing with a timming light on the same plug.

Good luck
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Old 11-16-2006, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleVision
Accel <--- There`s the problem.
correct ...yellow never works and is usually not brave either
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Old 11-16-2006, 09:16 AM
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Distributor Caps Burning

Using Accel 8.8 silicone plus spiral core wires.

Called the the Accel tech support and they told me I needed run ground wires from both the heads to my ground from the - battery cable attached to the bellhousing/block. They said the headgaskets and thread sealers act as a insulator and the lack of a good ground makes the ignition work harder and will cause the cap to burn the rotor and lugs??????????????????????????????????????

What do we think of that answer???????????????????????????????

I appreciate all the input

G
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Old 11-16-2006, 09:39 AM
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Doc here,

Mah OH MAh..

Didja ya ask the tec rep .. if that is true...how come the starter isn't slowing down???

While it is true , good ground bonding is very important..and won't hurt a bit to add..the guy is blowing sunshine up your skirt..

First , does the coil require a ballast resistor...and are you using one?

next did you GAP the plugs accordingly? 40 to 45 ths?

last when you upgraded the coil..did you upgrade the coil + wire? (i assume your using a performance coil..) a stocker pulls 20 amp a performance will pull down about 40 amp..using stock wire will swamp about 1/2 that into heat..doing no useful work..and perform poorly..ALSO be sure the coil is connected properly..+ to the ign switch, - to the dizzy..

Doc
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Old 11-16-2006, 09:39 AM
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MSD recommends ground wires to the heads, too.
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Old 11-16-2006, 12:02 PM
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Thanks for the replies
Wiring harness is a EZ Wiring Mini 12, it appears there is no resistor wire and I sent them a email to verify if has or has not.
Using about 7ft of 1 ga. NAPA battery cable with copper crimped connectors for both the + and - cables.
4 ga battery cable w/ copper ends from the engine block to the frame.
Using Accel 8145C breakerless coil recommended for this dizzy. Also recommends no resistor or resistor wire.
AC R45tS gapped @ 45
I did look at the spark with a adjustable fake sparkplug I use for outboard motor repairs and the spark was yellowish looking.
Cranking voltage is 10 vdc according to my Autometer dash voltage gauge.
Motor is fresh and the starter is new, turns over great!!!!

Doc
I stumbled on to one of your posts regarding grounding.
I should have read it before my wiring was completed.
I'm going through all the grounds chasing threads, cleaning surfaces and adding star washers!!!!!
Is it a good idea to use the star washers on both sides of the connection or just between the bolt and connectors.

Thanks
G
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Old 11-16-2006, 04:36 PM
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Doc here,

Set up your ground buss as I outlined, It won't hurt a thing..it is a good thing to have, and will head off any future problems you may encounter Electrical wise..

If the spark is anemic Yellow..either replace the coil + wire with a 10 gauge wire OR if you do not wish to "Hack" up a new harness, add a Relay..Thus:
  • Relay Coil # 85 = power wire from the ignition switch now (the coil + now)

  • Relay Coil # 86 = properly bonded , hard ground.

  • Relay CONTACT # 30 = to the Ignition Coil +, this wire will be 10 gauge.

  • Relay CONTACT # 87 = To the big bolt on the starter Solenoid Via a proper Fuse link, This wire will be 10 Gauge also..

  • Relay CONTACT 87a = not used for this application.




This will give you about twice the current from the source (battery) to the load (coil) AND is only demanding about an amp from the system to control the relay..

If you find it is still anemic yellow..replace the coil..EVEN new can be bad..happens all the time.Or you can test the coil..

Primary side should read less than an ohm, but more than 000..with a DVOM, set to OMS, RX1 Scale, Calibrated to 000.

Secondary Side, set your DVOM to RX10K OR HIGHER, it should read between 10,000 and 11,000 Ohms..



outside of that range , It is bad or on it's way south..This test will not detect internal arc~over, you need an Oscilloscope for that, so If you suspect it, replace it..

Should you find the system is dropping to 10 volts through crank mode, Add a secondary Ignition wire..This will run from the solenoid terminal "R" or "I", to the coil +..it too should be a 10 gauge wire..

Does this car seem to misfire OR, lack or feel like it should have more power than it does? Are the plugs constantly "Wet"?

Doc
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Old 11-17-2006, 05:34 PM
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Doc

Thanks for the help!!!!!!
Going to give the relay a shot.

What amperage relay should I use???
Would NAPA or Radio Shack be a good source??
Was going to play with it tonight, but now getting no spark, the cap is toast!!
Going to order new cap and rotor from Summit.

Thanks
G
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Old 11-17-2006, 05:47 PM
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Doc here,

Well, not knowing what coil you have, My recommendation would be a Bosh 40 amp or higher Relay..

If you want to figure out the Exact Draw, do a little ohms law..

I=E/R..

Measure the Ohms at the primary (as I outlined below) and apply the above forumlua..the resultant will be the current amount you need to select the relay ampacity..

Or just get a 40 amp rated relay..should be fine..

You can get one at NAPA or Auto Zombie..any parts house should have one.Rat shack relays top out at only 10 amps If you can find a store that still stocks them..

Keep us updated!

Doc
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Old 11-17-2006, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glg97

Called the the Accel tech support and they told me I needed run ground wires from both the heads to my ground from the - battery cable attached to the bellhousing/block. They said the headgaskets and thread sealers act as a insulator and the lack of a good ground makes the ignition work harder and will cause the cap to burn the rotor and lugs.
It is called secondary ignition resistance. A poor ground may well cause this (as do bad wires, plugs or poorly grounded plugs-have you used a thread chaser?). The suggested use of dialetric gell on the rotor point and cap points is a very good idea (also inside of the plug boots to prevent spark leakage). FORD (as did DELCO) started that practice back in the seventies with most of their SSI designs.

It would be nice if a subject could be discussed without the usual this brand sucks, yada, yada, yada. If you feel it sucks, how about an objective criticism rather than the adolescent *****ing?

ACCELL is a premium product as is MSD. I hear horror storys concerning both. I prefer ACCELL personally.

BTW- The starter circuit will (should) have a good ground from the short block to frame ground.
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Old 11-17-2006, 09:08 PM
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I`ve heard stories about them both as well, any electrical product will have failures, regardless of the brand. Accel is the only one of them all I had repeditive failures out of, I bought one of there HEI caps and it melted, a friend and his cousin bought one and the same thing happened to theres. I bought a HEI super coil, it went out in 2 days, it was replaced with another that lasted a week. I`ve had several of there plug wire sets have very high resistance right out of the box and had not ever been installed, and lastly, 2 spark plugs out of a set of 8 that would not fire at all fresh out of the box. I didn`t bash accel with what I said, I was only giving my opinion. I don`t use there products because of the lack of quality, had I gotten better service out of there products I wouldn`t have a problem with them, but it`s hard to convince me out of that many failures it was just a few bum pieces.
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Old 11-17-2006, 10:09 PM
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Doc here,

GLG97...

What coil are you using?

Doc
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