[Screwy Lewy]

I am posting this here as I think it may be more engine question than electrical.

After considerable effort and troubles I finally was able to get the engine fired up but it coughs and spits at low throttle settings and quits. Once above about 1000 RPM it sound very smooth . I have no experimce with HEI ignitions and even less with CDI on Chevrolet engines. Mine is eqiupped with Crane HI-6 CDI and have downloaded manual and was able to get enough information to get it up and running. Need advice and suggestions on the following details if anyone can help.

1. Looking at the pictures, is the clock position of my HEI distributor anywhere nears where it should be?
I have labled the plug wires as they are in their current positions. This is the only position the engine will start but runs better at 1000 RPM and above if I turn the distributor CCW looking down on it (advancing it?). If this is not the correct position for the number one plug where should the correct position be?

2. The engine produces an encredible amount of heat. The paint on the headers vaporized with in seconds however the water temps are in the 190 degree area once running and rises quickly to 210 when shut down. I have hooked up the power brake booster line to the back of the AFB carb. Is this the wrong place? Should I instead tap off the manifold proper?

3. The HEI distributor is believed to be a stock one that has had the GM modual removed for the HI-6 CDI installation (this had been done by a shop in Corona Ca before I bought the truck and dismantled it). The hole in the Edlebrock manifold is bigger than the machined boss on the distributor. Is this common? Does it create any serious problems if it doesn’t move when fully clamped? While the clamp is loose it tends to wobble when turning it.

The truck is at the point now where it is too heavy to push in and out of the garage to complete work on it. 1 and ½ car garage is too small to get much work done in so have been pushing it in and out (city C&Cs won’t allow it to remain in the driveway) . My Grandaughter is not yet strong enough to help once more than half of the truck is in the driveway to get it back in the garage so I must be able to start and drive it in from now on. I think if I can get the timming correct with the distributor in the correct position I will be able to drive it back and forth into the garage.

Thanks, Jim
http://webs.lanset.com/lewy/hei1.jpg
http://webs.lanset.com/lewy/hei2.jpg
http://webs.lanset.com/lewy/hei3.jpg

[Dozier768]

typically i key it in 180 deg from there, but it does not matter, put your motor at TDC. where ever the rotor is pointing is where cylander #1 should go to, follow the firing order from there, then time it. if it runs at all and your firing order is correct then all you can do from there is change the timing. Really it does not matter where you have it keyed in as long as it lines up.

[troy-curt]

Sounds like a vacumn leak, or slow on time.

By the book your 1 notch of , #1 should be where #2 is, but if the roter is on # 1 at TDC it`s allright. CCW is advance CW is retard.

It is normal to instantley burn the paint on new headers, unless they have a high temp paint on them.

The dist. hole should fit snug,If it`s tight with the clamp it should be allright.

HTH,
GOOD LUCK,
TROY,

[Screwy Lewy]

Thanks Troy I think you are correct with the position of the wires. I am going to try to get it set up again after I get my fan shroud made.

Thanks, Jim

[Seon]

I found it easier to take a wad of paper and plug #1 spark plug hole, making sure that the wad of paper is larger than the hole. Then I bump the starter until the wad pops out. That's TDC or close to it. I insert the distributor with the rotor pointing at 7-8 o'clock position. Then connect the distributor cap and wiring accordingly.

[woodz428]

I think it's something other than the plug wires being 1 off, as stated as long as you have it timed correctly the engine doesn't know where the dist is. I lean toward the vacuum leak/slow timing that Troy mentioned.

[Vern Bradford]

Screwy Lewy,
I think everyone is giving some good advice. The trick that Seon mentioned is a great way to do this by your self. Just remember that the Rotor will point to #1 twice. Once on the Compression Stroke and once on the Exhaust Stroke. Of course you want the Compression stroke. Like Seon said you can put paper in the #1 spark plug hole, it will shoot out a little ways on the Exhaust Stroke and will shoot out about twice that far on the Compression Stroke. Do it a couple of times and you will see the difference.
Is there any chance you can get a stock Dist. to drop in for a test. It would help eliminate the extra large (Dist) hole in the manifold as a possible problem and it would confirm if the Crane Unit is at fault. A stock Chevy Dist can be had for 20-30 Dollars.
Good Luck,
Vern Bradford
P.S. Does your Dist have a Vaccum Advance on it?

[Screwy Lewy]

Thanks Vern. I tried with a clear head this morning pulled the cap off took a gander and made a note. Located TDC on the ZERO mark and pulled the distributor, backed up the oil pump shaft, drop it back in, wire it back up with the new position. Had a good line up with the rotor. It started and idled right away so I just put the timing light on it a set temporary at 8 degrees. It is very comforting to have the engine light and stay lit of its own accord. I can now go back when I have less pressing details and set it up perfect. I now can drive it in and out of the garage.

Regarding the paper trick, with my luck it would suck it in before it had a chance to blow out. I just use my finger.

Thanks for the help.
Jim

Originally posted by Vern Bradford
Screwy Lewy,
I think everyone is giving some good advice. The trick that Seon mentioned is a great way to do this by your self. Just remember that the Rotor will point to #1 twice. Once on the Compression Stroke and once on the Exhaust Stroke. Of course you want the Compression stroke. Like Seon said you can put paper in the #1 spark plug hole, it will shoot out a little ways on the Exhaust Stroke and will shoot out about twice that far on the Compression Stroke. Do it a couple of times and you will see the difference.
Is there any chance you can get a stock Dist. to drop in for a test. It would help eliminate the extra large (Dist) hole in the manifold as a possible problem and it would confirm if the Crane Unit is at fault. A stock Chevy Dist can be had for 20-30 Dollars.
Good Luck,
Vern Bradford
P.S. Does your Dist have a Vaccum Advance on it?