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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 10-07-2005, 09:59 PM
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Dots

Doc here

What your seeing I believe is the SAME optical illusion I saw...

I downloaded your picture and ran it through Paint Shop pro7 and blew it up like 20 times..and measured with a straight edge..in the photo they line up..when you reduce it the cam dot looks like its off to the left...

Try this if you can..get a laser level laser pen, and shoot a line between the two, if it falls between the center of the two , it can be nothing but lined up..

What concerns me more than that is the gears , especially the left gear show excessive signs of wear, the edges are worn and the teeth don't look to me like their meshing properly, AND the gap at the right seems too be to wide (another sign of wear and backlash..)

In addition to that the massive amount of metal dust around the block area!! (unless that's a product of digi photography..you NEED to get that crap out of there...spotless! then new filter and oil, run a few minutes and change both again..That stuff CAN eat the rotating mass and cam bearings ALIVE!

Clean it good get the bone and gears, do the oil and filter thing, and you should be all good..



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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 10-08-2005, 04:41 PM
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Still Readen All Posts...

10-08-05

Readen All Posts!

MeanMotherUSA

Last edited by Mean@MeanMother.Com; 10-08-2005 at 04:53 PM. Reason: Typo
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 10-08-2005, 04:44 PM
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Electrician That Knows It All...

10-08-05

Hey77-You Keep Your Asinined Comments To Yourself...

MeanMotherUSA
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 10-08-2005, 07:55 PM
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You can get a complete new gear drive set from Jegs They have a cheap one for $99.99, a Edelbrock for $159, and a Pete Jackson for $142.99. Judgeing by the gear wear etc. in the pics I think you need to do as DocVette says...clean everything up spotless , replace the complete geardrive, and change the oil and filter ASAP and hope that your cam bearings etc are not already damaged from all the metal particles.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 10-08-2005, 09:32 PM
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I believe what is being perceived as metal particles is actually the block casting reflecting the camera flash. I went in there and wiped the area down with a clean cotton cloth and came up with no metal dust, just some gasket flecks that stuck on the thin film of oil that's there when I removed the gasket. I think I'm good there. A new gear drive is not in my budget currently so I am going to remake the worn out dogbones from a slightly tougher alloy steel and put it all back together. Been in a tool room of one kind or another for 23 years. I feel confident the image I posted might highlight certian surfaces that give the impression of wear on the gears but when I look closely at the engagement surfaces of the tooth profile it really looks fine. Thank you very much guys for the comments, I do appreciate them.
MeanMother, I ordered a vacuum gauge today to get a perspective on your idea. I will try it along with the timing light and educate myself. Thanks for the comments.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 10-08-2005, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mean@MeanMother.Com
10-08-05

Hey77-You Keep Your Asinined Comments To Yourself...

MeanMotherUSA
Allright, I'll keep my comments to myself as long as you quit giving bad advice. If someone calls you on your bad advice, proves why it is bad advice, and gives correct advice, don't jump all over their a s s.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2005, 02:18 AM
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Why not go back with a dobble roller chain.It is alot cheeper. this is not a race car is it, or do you like the sound it makes thanks steve
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2005, 08:44 AM
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Hey Steve,
Thanks for the reply. I really do like the sound, and check out the cardomain page and see the profile on it's set-up. I like to think it's a radical street car that is just as comfortable at the track. Now, if I can get it back together this year (Lokar throttle/700R4 cable install) I'll post some numbers. Again thank you for your input. Tom


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Originally Posted by stevesauto
Why not go back with a dobble roller chain.It is alot cheeper. this is not a race car is it, or do you like the sound it makes thanks steve
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 10-09-2005, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lluciano77
Do not time your spark for the most vacuum. You will most likely detonate and destroy your engine.

Always check with an accurate timing light. Timing lights can be inacurate by as 10o.

You need to verify exact timing in order to tune properly. An advance analyzing timing light can do this along with a tach.

A distributor can not be off by a tooth. There are no teeth to be off by. Timing is determined by the phasing of the rotor. You can drop a distributor 180o out and simply change the wires 180o and be back in tune.
Im glad someone else sees thing the same as me. The dist can be put in in any positon and made to work. This is not the correct way to do it and will totally screw the next guy if he changes wires based on where the distributor is supposd to be.
I also agree that timing lights are made for a reason, and at least provide a good "known" starting point of reference for setting timing. I think everyone at one time or another has set timing by ear but I still dont recoment it!
YThe problem in this thread would never have been noticed if he diddnt check the timing with a light.
just my $.02
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2005, 07:55 PM
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Bought up a pile o stuff

Will install the new parts soon. Made some myself also. Gear drive broke and threw everything off alot. Replacing everything with the best I could find, in my opinion.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2005, 08:29 PM
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Back together and all seems fine

Got it all back together tonight and all seems well. Thank you all for the help and insight.
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