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Old 11-09-2010, 05:11 PM
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DIY Coolant filter screen

I would like a cone shaped filter screen inside my radiator hose.

I'd rather not cut radiator hose.

I would attach a warning note: "Check filter screen often".

My radiator and heater cores are all working and I would like to keep it that way.

Any ideas out there?

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Old 11-09-2010, 06:16 PM
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Tea strainer

Think I'll go shopping for a tea strainer.
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Old 11-09-2010, 06:24 PM
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Old 11-09-2010, 06:37 PM
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Yeah I'm a lil crazy.
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Old 11-09-2010, 08:17 PM
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Hi,
Why do guys constantly try to fix things that aren't broken?
Regular scheduled PM is normally all that's needed.
Rich
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Old 11-09-2010, 08:52 PM
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I have three vehicles in which I have serviced radiators and changed heater cores.

Two were serviced over 10 years ago and I have run only coolant and distilled water. They still work perfect. So I guess you are right. Shouldn't fix whats not broken.

Sometimes I'm just a curious cat and can't help but wonder if there is any particulates lurking in those coolant systems. Curiosity killed the cat, I know.

You are probably right but I will probably experiment anyway. Maybe I can break it or maybe I will catch some trash.

Just a rainy day project.
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Old 11-09-2010, 10:57 PM
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Drain it through a coffee filter and refill, why do you need to constantly filter it?

Its a sealed system and as long as there is glycol or some sort of antifreeze with corrosion inhibitors in it you don't need to worry.
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Old 11-09-2010, 11:42 PM
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Not sure how to tell when corrosion inhibitors expire other than visual clarity check.
Saw many photos of particulates collected in coolant strainers even after coolant flush performed..
Read from other site truckers run coolant indefinitely w/ a slow release corrosion inhibitor pill.
Truckers run coolant filter on bypass line.
I am leaning toward running DIY filter on heater hose.
If filter plugs will only affect heater core flow till filter cleaned.
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Old 11-10-2010, 05:16 AM
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Acidic coolant has to be avoided. There are pH measuring kits to check coolant, as well as the hydrometers to check the effectiveness against freezing/boiling. You can also get test strips that do BOTH. Probably the best thing you can do to avoid any problems is scheduled coolant flush and fills.

Another good idea IMO is to use a sacrificial anode. Really nothing more than a chunk of Mg or Zn or an alloy of them both. More HERE.

If you use a strainer, be sure it doesn't have too fine of a mesh, or the flow will be reduced. The last thing you want is for the pump to cavitate.

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Old 11-10-2010, 06:51 AM
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If you're that worried about it following Cobalt's advice will be better than you screen plan.


Millions of people drive for many years without flushing coolant and have no problems though.
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Old 11-10-2010, 09:03 AM
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Heavy equipment and trucks use conditioning filters on their coolant systems in bypass configuration.

Interesting concept although a spin on filter is bordering on extreme overkill.
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Old 11-10-2010, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 001mustang
I would like a cone shaped filter screen inside my radiator hose.

I'd rather not cut radiator hose.

I would attach a warning note: "Check filter screen often".

My radiator and heater cores are all working and I would like to keep it that way.

Any ideas out there?
Great idea, I especially like the tea strainer. Corrosion is a constant it happens within every alloy, where ever dissimilar metals make a joint such as soldered, brazed or bolted for that matter, or where a metal contacts the air or another fluid. It happens between and with inorganic and organic molecules. It's just natures way of minimizing natural differences of electrical charges between different types of atoms. You can slow it down but you can't stop it. It happens between some types of plastics and some metals. Carbon composites and aluminum being one choice that makes a great battery.

The crud that circulates is a result of this action more-so than a cause. But trapping it with a cleanable filter at least prevents the crud from plugging radiator and heater cores.

Distilled water and anti-freeze mixes, like the usual glycols, or straight glycols is about the best answer to minimizing corrosion. That along with being sure that the radiator, heater core, and engine are electrically bonded (grounded) together so that electrical charge differences between them aren't using the coolant as a means of normalizing themselves. These days and actually for quite a few decades now, radiators tend to be floated on rubber mounts and heater cores encased in plastic ductwork. None of these configurations permit the free movement of electrical charges to ground except thru the coolant. So I practice and recommend that a ground wire be added between these cores and the chassis/engine.

The other important thing is to keep air out of the cooling system, this is one of the purposes of the two way by-passing pressure cap and the coolant reservoir. The reservoir keeps a level of coolant that submerges the end of the overflow hose such that what ever excess coolant that vented during operation is trapped in the reservoir. As the cooling system cools after shut-down the reverse by-pass cap opens as a vacuum forms in the cooling system which then draws the overflowed coolant back into the radiator instead of air. The rate of oxidation of materials in the cooling system is directly related to temperature, hotter begets faster reaction rates. Therefore, keeping the atmosphere purged from the cooling system is of major importance.

Distilled, or reverse osmosis, or de-ionized water should be the first choice when diluting coolant. These have most of the dissolved salts normally found in tap or well water removed. You shouldn't bother with softened water, most of these systems remove the calcium, magnesium and iron ions, replacing them with a small amount of sodium. None of these metals, including sodium, are good in a cooling system. They do two nasty things, one is to form precipitates which is a solid crud that builds up on surfaces, second they are electrically conductive that makes the coolant into an electrolyte which provides a highway for free electrons to move around on just like what's happening inside your battery. This movement of electrons is corrosion at work and forms more crud that circulates while leaving pin holes behind.

Bogie
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Old 11-10-2010, 11:34 AM
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Go old bogie!!!

Thanks.
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Old 11-20-2010, 09:55 PM
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coolant maintenance plan

I purchaced some spin on coolant filter heads and some spin on 30 micron coolant filters w/ 1 oz time release DCA.

Will filter heater hose line.

Planing to purchase 2" x 15" SS radiator overflow recovery tanks to minimize O2 in coolant system.

Once DCA is expired I will purchase test strips and Type 4 LCA (phosphate/molybdate/nitrite). Type 4 has been tested to be less corrosive to Pb and Al.

All my mods will be bolt on and easily removable.
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Old 11-21-2010, 08:11 AM
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And what happens if you're driving and the filter get clogged? Bye Bye engine.
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