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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2008, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
Just like a hot rod, do you want to build your own or maybe just buy one?
you can't compare the 2, they are not the same. my truck is completely (besides GM) build by me. thats doesn't mean i have to build my own alternator, or fuel injectors, etc. to say i built it.

i like to watch TV, but that doesn't mean i want to build one.

but, if someone likes doing it, more power to em. i'm just sayin, "bang for buck" is to just buy one.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01-05-2008, 11:35 AM
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Nope it is quite like building a car because it too would normally be done for the sense of accomplishment and the love of doing things yourself, rarely would it be done out of desperation for need of an unafforadble tool although there would be a good deal of money to be saved. If you are saying more "bang for the buck" by buying one instead of building your own I seriously doubt that as the home built unit can be built for a fraction of the cost of buying one. As far as comparing this to a full featured high frequency factory built outfit that is comparing apples to oranges and completely misses the point. The cost could be quite high if someone simply took a list of the parts and bought everything new but again if you were to do that it misses the whole point.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 12-22-2008, 02:06 PM
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Optional weldernator TIG control idea?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Travis Rankin
Dayyumn!

Remember, I am no electrician or an an engineer.. Just a cheap hippy/ Redneck that likes to learn and experiment..

I just looked at that schematic for the first time since I built this.. and by first look I dont even understand it.. I would have to do some research again to be able to build another one.. But I know it is right becuase it works, and when I drew it I was fresh with the knowledge...

Good luck guys, I look forward to seeing some more diy machines running!
I love the concept of your build, and that you tried to share the "wealth". I have seen several (say it like Arnold) VELDENATOR! set-ups, and the discussion about them is a lot like homebuilt rotary phase converters. Even as they watch it work, some just will not believe it works.

Seems most got lost when the power transistors entered the discusion. So, an alternative non-electronic way to control the amount of DC voltage supplied to alternator would be to use a variac, these are easily available on E-bay.

A Variac (variable AC) are simply an adjustable electro-mechanical device (auto-former) that [in our case] takes 120 VAC from the wall outlet and by turning the big knob on top gives 0 - 130 vac out, they even come with a voltmeter and built in fuse holder. 2+ amp size plenty big (~ about $100)

Next part we need is machine tool control transformer. They are commonly made in the 240/120vac input (primary) to 24/12vac output (secondary) Thus they have a 10 to 1 voltage step down [and more to the good, a 10:1 step-up in amps]) and are sized by VA (lets consider VA as watts and with a little SWAG factor assume 8 amp draw from alternator at 13 volts = ~100VA as a bare minimum). $ ~50 EBAY Basically not much different than what Travis used.

So, if we connect the Variac output to our 10 : 1 stepdown transformer we now have zero to 13 volts AC available at the twist of a big black knob. We be getting there!

DANGER!!! ELECTRONIC COMPONENT AHEAD!!!

Next step is simple, we have AC - we want DC! Buy a bridge rectifier from almost anywhere (surplus center has one, 35 amp rating, less than $10, it looks like a 1" plastic block, with mounting hole in center, and four spade connectors. 2 terminals that say AC in and 2 terminals labeled DC out, think you can handle it?) and with this magic (filled with smoke at the factory) device we convert Alternating Current to Direct Current.

This magic device will live a lot longer if you screw it to a, thin piece of aluminum ~8" x 12"++ or a store bought, heatsink. There is a special Dielectric heat transfer grease that sould be smeared on the bridge rectifer before bolting it to heat sink. (any computer geek or even NAPA should have some). This again is a device that Travis used!

END OF ELECTRONIC COMPONENT SECTION

This "design" is as simple as I can think it can be. Maybe $200 in parts max! I would think about a second variac (in series with first) that I would rig as a foot pedal. The first variac (mounted on welder) would set the max power allowed (MPA) and the foot pedal variac would let me go from MPA to zero! But, i TIG weld like I drive, WFO all the time.

I am kind of looking for a 24volt SI21 delco to follow me home, for an engine driven rig. These only need a simple reostat for control along with engine rpms! But, for a shop tig, an old school Variac is a consideration, I even have several in my junk box. I also have a collection of power transistors.

Added a modified schematic and a picture of Variac $ 55 "buy it now", brand new, etc... on the Ebay. You could by 2 and plug one into the other. The first would set the max power. The second one would be the "foot control" going from max to zero. I have used this same "design" to run small (Bodine style 24 VDC) motors. They do make a "solid state version" of a variac (AKA light dimmer from Home depot, and the more expensive industrial "transformer rated" version, but I like old school.) There is litte that would be hard to repair or replace on this rig, unlike the control boards on some other welders. mark
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Last edited by shop rat; 12-22-2008 at 07:40 PM.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2008, 07:37 PM
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re: Diy Tig

Hay, this is for me..... I love building stuff, and have some electrical skill....Now where can i view the "9 page read out" on the build??????
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