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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-05-2009, 01:20 AM
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No one has wanted to try it DBM...

No one trusts me....but that's ok. Do a search on here for duratec...it's not something I just learned about today.

You need to buy it at a fiberglass supply. I have never been able to find it at any autobody paint supply...( I guess that means it's no good..hahhaha)

I did a quick google search for the primer, I found it online for 60.00 a gallon, last gallon I bought (about 7 months ago at my local FRP supply was 49.00)
Sorry for the discrepancy in price.

Here is a link to a good page about it with application guides, troubleshooting charts, etc all on one page..

http://www.fibreglast.com/contentpag...rimer-302.html

google search the stuff, it's sold all over.



Later, mikey

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 07-05-2009, 08:40 AM
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I have used Duratec on the car I am building, previously I had only used epoxy -- I got the idea from Mikey (ssh don't tell him!). I wrote about it in another thread how much I loved using it. I get mine from here --
http://www.uscomposites.com/polyprod.html

Don't buy it from Fibreglast -- it starts of $30 more and by the time they throw in the $20 Hazmat fee and the price of the hardener (neither of which US composites charge) it comes out twice the price.

I am also using a vinylester primer from the same manufacturers in places where I am having a temporary print-through problem, apparently the vinylester is harder and more resistant to heat. Not many people sell it, I bought it from here
http://www.compositesone.com/
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Old 07-05-2009, 09:59 AM
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Appropriate material

There are a lot of materials a felow can use..for fiberglass I am inclined to listen to mikey on that as he has had some extensive glass experience..on metal i use the SPI epoxy and since it has good fill and sandablity as well as corrosion resistance it has become my go to material and has reduced the amount of inventory of products that i need to keep on hand.

Now if I am doing a glass part then that is a different animal and then the poly products are good at that..

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Old 07-05-2009, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneMoreTime
.....
Now if I am doing a glass part then that is a different animal .......
Sam
Yes, more than some people realise.

When painting metal it is for two reasons, protect the substrate (stop rust) and to look good.

When painting fiberglass it is for cosmetic reasons only.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 07-05-2009, 12:34 PM
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There is a school of thought that on old fiberglass parts that have begun to degrade, a good epoxy primer helps seal and stabilize the bare 'glass surface for further resurfacing.
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Old 07-05-2009, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashtech
There is a school of thought that on old fiberglass parts that have begun to degrade, a good epoxy primer helps seal and stabilize the bare 'glass surface for further resurfacing.
Yes, and there is also a school of thought that even new glass should be given a coat of epoxy primer on the backside for additional sealing.

Vince
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Old 07-05-2009, 07:15 PM
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I am guessing that the OP has his answer to his question so won't mind us discussing this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by crashtech
There is a school of thought that on old fiberglass parts that have begun to degrade, a good epoxy primer helps seal and stabilize the bare 'glass surface for further resurfacing.
Would like info of what exactly the degradation is or pics etc. I would like to read about it, I am always looking for more info on fiberglass.


I regularly work on old FG parts and in normal operation the only degradation I have seen is the fading and chalking of the gel-coat caused by UV rays, however this is not considered structural and is dealt with as a cosmetic problem. Yes, paint would prevent this, and be a lot easier to do than re-gelcoat if necessary. I have seen thin laminates without a gel-coat get brittle in the weather if the surface resin is clear and allows penetration of UV rays.

Many of the parts I work on are 40 years old or more and some have never been painted I have never seen any get so bad from UV rays as to lose itís structural integrity unless there were other factors involved (de-lam, impact damage etc), although of course given enough time anything will. How much time? Hard to say -- too many factors involved.

Every year I work on a sailboat that was built in 1964, it is pulled out of the shed and anchored every summer for 4 or 5 months (same owner has been doing it since it was built). The FG deck has never seen paint, wax or any other product except for detergent when it is scrubbed with a hard brush. Although the surface is dull - it is still good after all this time and we walk (with shoes)/jump/drag things across it all the time. I have been doing a few weeks work on it every year since 1993 and am still surprised at the abuse it takes.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 07-05-2009, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 302 Z28
Yes, and there is also a school of thought that even new glass should be given a coat of epoxy primer on the backside for additional sealing.

Vince
Why do you think this?

All the FG water and fuel tanks I have worked on are plain FG on the inside with maybe an extra coat of clear resin (no gel-coat). If you donít need paint under those conditions I canít imagine why you would need to Ďsealí FG on a car.

Of course I have no idea what your FG looks like, I suppose if it was not finished properly and had resin-free areas or fibers coming through the surface I would also be tempted to put something on it (epoxy resin though, not primer).
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-2009, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scrimshaw
Would like info of what exactly the degradation is or pics etc. I would like to read about it, I am always looking for more info on fiberglass.
Sorry, I do not have any direct experience with this phenomenon. I mentioned it as a slightly off-topic aside because a respectable Corvette restorer has seen problems with the 'glass in '50's era vehicles.

Maybe he will post here, but I doubt it.

P.S. I didn't know they made fuel tanks out of standard polyester resin and fiberglass!
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Old 07-06-2009, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crashtech
P.S. I didn't know they made fuel tanks out of standard polyester resin and fiberglass!
They probably won't be doing it anymore, apparently the new ingredients (ethanol?) are reacting with the styrene in the resin and gumming up injectors. I haven't seen this myself but I usually deal with diesel fuel boats.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2009, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverback
any pictures of what that looks like? I'm wondering if it would look like a semi-gloss or if it is actually shiny or what?
no its very shiny the black epoxy is like a tough black base coat thats all ...if you want it to shine less use a flattener but this was a little experiment on a helmit NOT a car but I see no reason it wouldnt work for protection instead of just epoxy ...like for little hotrods and 4x4s
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2009, 10:24 PM
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mikey,that dura tec sounds a lot like feather fill by ever coat
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 07-11-2009, 10:45 PM
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Do a comparison yourself. If I remember right, Featherfill is a pretty well respected filled polyester primer. Evercoat makes some good stuff.

I have to spray filled primer maybe 2 or 3 times a year, and I'm not going to spend time doing a test when the Duratec already does everything I ever wanted it to.

If I remember correctly though, when we used featherfill in the glass shop it didn't fill all that good, and wouldn't take a polish vet well ...which makes me believe it's more porous...

( I know, why would anyone polish primer? It's a common practice to polish a plug prior to taking a mold from it...If you can build a plug and prime it with a filled primer, then sand it and polish it without putting a coat of high gloss paint, it saves many hours in the tooling shop)

Later, mikey
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 07-12-2009, 06:33 AM
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your right it is a little pourus,never did try buffing it.so the dura tec doesn't shrink so much ..... right? sounds like something worth trying I got a perfect car to try it on.....it must dry rock hard to be used in molds. I gave up on featherfill years ago when I forgot to add the mek hardner and primed a whole car....yeah thats pretty dumb but I did it twice
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Old 07-12-2009, 10:21 AM
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This is probably a good time to post this as DBM just reminded me of when mistakes happen when you forget to add hardener or something else happens with 2K products. Have plenty of paper towels on hand and either Klix or Prep-Sol. You can then wash off your mistake and not damage the primer or anything beneath it. You may have to remask your work but you wonít have to redo your work to finish. Yes, Iíve made some pretty stupid mistakes too.
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