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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 07-12-2009, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
so the dura tec doesn't shrink so much ..... right? sounds like something worth trying I got a perfect car to try it on.....

The duratec is very stable.

I am recommending Duratec for application over fiberglass substrates. If you want to shoot this over steel, there are a couple of extra steps you need to do to the substrate.

I'm not familiar with them, my experience is with fiberglass parts. This thread is about priming fiberglass parts.

As for the problems you might have with forgetting to add catalyst...well ...you will only do that once, and that is your problem, not the primer's problem.

Later, mikey

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 07-12-2009, 10:58 AM
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that works great for paint CJ but this stuff can go on 1/4" thick if you want it too (I call it spray bondo) I actually had to scrape it off with a putty knife first,also I prayed for three days for it to get hard and it kinda did but you could dig it out...what a mess but those days lauquer primer was the industry standerd,hardner was new to us
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Old 07-12-2009, 11:18 AM
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True. I was lucky to never forget the hardener. I will have to admit that todays products have improved quite a bit. In the old days if you used anything with reducer you were pretty much screwed in reworking anything. This 64 chevy I'm doing I used reducer in the 2K primer till I ran out of reducer then tried a mix with some thinner and got no lift like I would back in the days. Got so confident with it we bought some single stage PPG enamel with hardener and I reduced it with Dupont 3661S thinner with no problems, Just like I used to in the old days. Only painted the hood,bed and tailgate so far. Plan on painting the rest tomorrow.
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Old 07-16-2009, 09:51 PM
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Ok so basically doing metal work you strip, spray with epoxy, do filler work, spray with 2K urethane primer, block and then epoxy prime as sealer and paint. Doing fiberglass you'd just have to spray either featherfill or dura tech, block, prime with epoxy as sealer, and paint?
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 07-17-2009, 06:08 AM
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Use epoxy on fiberglass first ,just like bare metal,but "Shine" is the local fiberglass expert,I'd talk to him before I started stripping a vette...but as for metal thats the basic idea ,yes...strip,epoxy,bodywork,epoxy again,.....sandwich your bodywork....after that theres many options and proceedures...the choice is yours....theres advantage's and disadvantages to each...once its epoxied and bodywork is done find out about each proceedure and pick the one that best suits you.It gets complicated so take your time, do your homework......but forget about feather fill its hard sanding and theres much better and cheaper products out there...powerrodsmike,has some great primer he uses on big molds,he swears by it so it must be good,ask him about it if your interested

Last edited by deadbodyman; 07-17-2009 at 06:14 AM.
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