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Old 06-30-2009, 10:56 PM
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Do I need to epoxy fiberglass?

I have some body parts that are fiberglass and I am going to BC/CC them to match the car. Should I shoot epoxy on the properly sanded/prepped parts?
Thanks
Ron

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Old 07-01-2009, 04:47 AM
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always use 2 good coats of epoxy.
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Old 07-01-2009, 06:10 AM
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at least two coats,but epoxy's are all differnt.Untill I started using SPI epoxy I never realized how versitile epoxy can be. This SPI can replace build primer and sealer.On your fiberglass parts you'll need nothing else.its cheaper than both also 170.00 for two sprayable gal.,the other epoxy's I've used arnt this good,not even close not even at twice the price.ask the people that use it but not your local paint store they'll sell you anything and swear its better.
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Old 07-01-2009, 07:40 AM
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I second DB's comments on SPI epoxy, it's hands down the best I have ever used and is way cheaper than the high priced brands like PPG, holds up far better also.

Vince
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Old 07-01-2009, 07:45 AM
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Do you have a name/part # on that SPI stuff? Thanks!

Steve
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Old 07-01-2009, 08:14 AM
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Understand that the SPI isn't "required" to do this. People use other epoxy's and do the exact same thing. Though the SPI may be great stuff, it isn't "required".


Let me ask you, are you painting new fiberglass parts and going to bolt them on an already painted car? If that is the case the COLOR of the panel before you paint it is going to be critical to getting the color right.

AND, DO NOT do this without trial fitting the parts!!! That is a BIG "!!!!"

Brian
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Old 07-01-2009, 08:30 AM
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Here is the link for SPI epoxy primer. As Shine suggested, it is always good insurance to seal fiberglass with epoxy primer.

Vince
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Old 07-01-2009, 08:57 AM
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If your fiberglass parts are new it might be a good idea to place them in the sun and bring them up to the approx. temp they will see in everyday use before you do the final sanding. This forces the post-cure process and reduces the possibility of 'print-through' at a later date.
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Old 07-01-2009, 09:28 AM
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Thanks for every ones input.
I still have about a quart of PPG epoxy left over from the paint job that I will finish it off on the body kit.
I did fit the pieces to the car and screwed them on. They needed a lot of "fitting" with a grinder and files to get them so they would line up!
They are on The 66 in the sun and it has been pretty warm here. I think the fiberglass has cured by now.
I will remove the side skirts and air dam, sand, paint and reattach them.
Thanks again for helping a newbie through the process! It is appreciated.
Good Luck and Be Safe
Ron
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Old 07-01-2009, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
at least two coats,but epoxy's are all differnt.Untill I started using SPI epoxy I never realized how versitile epoxy can be. This SPI can replace build primer and sealer.On your fiberglass parts you'll need nothing else.its cheaper than both also 170.00 for two sprayable gal.,the other epoxy's I've used arnt this good,not even close not even at twice the price.ask the people that use it but not your local paint store they'll sell you anything and swear its better.
Are you guys suggesting that the SPI epoxy is sandable and can be used as a build primer? I was under the impression that most epoxy primers weren't very sandable and unless they were 2K usually didn't have enough build to build over even the smallest imperfections...

(if it will work this would save me a lot of time and money on the "race car" which I want to look good but no point in a _really nice_ paint job since it will get messed up, I just want it durable and looking good at 10' or so)
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Old 07-01-2009, 08:42 PM
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[QUOTE=302 Z28]Here is the link for SPI epoxy primer. As Shine suggested, it is always good insurance to seal fiberglass with epoxy primer.

Vince[/QUOTEYou mean we ALL agree?how about this for proof.....I wanted to know just how much and how far I could take this SPI epoxy because a old master said he uses nothing else,so I purposly left 36grit scratches in a roof of an old car,I sprayed three WET coats let it dry over nite,sanded it down,still kinda soft,and sprayed three more WET coats waited two weeks for it to fully cure and sanded it down,fully expecting it to fail,it never did and it sanded very nicely,the 36 grit scratches were gone they never swelled or shrank,they still havent after three months,I've got pics to prove to.Theres only a couple products out there that I feel this strongly about.I dont care what kind of epoxyanyone makes this stuff is the BEST I've ever used and you can seal with it I HATE sealers but love using this as sealer its sooooooooo much easier.I recomend EVERYONE try it you'll see,I always knew it was very good but I didn't believe it was THAT good so Thanks "Shine" for the best product advice anyone ever gave me.....Except for Ospho....of course.
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Old 07-01-2009, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverback
Are you guys suggesting that the SPI epoxy is sandable and can be used as a build primer? I was under the impression that most epoxy primers weren't very sandable and unless they were 2K usually didn't have enough build to build over even the smallest imperfections...

(if it will work this would save me a lot of time and money on the "race car" which I want to look good but no point in a _really nice_ paint job since it will get messed up, I just want it durable and looking good at 10' or so)
EXACTLY,thats what I thought too,try it you'll love it ,its tough too,perfect for that kind of car,my old car looks good in the epoxy black ,I might not even paint it.You want tough?sand epoxy down with 600 then clear with SPI clear.nothing else I did a helmet like this and almost sheet myself it looked so good tough too,no base coat at all,but dont try this on a good car,on second thought that would be a great experiment for a daily driver

Last edited by deadbodyman; 07-01-2009 at 08:58 PM.
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Old 07-04-2009, 10:30 PM
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any pictures of what that looks like? I'm wondering if it would look like a semi-gloss or if it is actually shiny or what?
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Old 07-04-2009, 11:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverback
Are you guys suggesting that the SPI epoxy is sandable and can be used as a build primer? I was under the impression that most epoxy primers weren't very sandable and unless they were 2K usually didn't have enough build to build over even the smallest imperfections...

(if it will work this would save me a lot of time and money on the "race car" which I want to look good but no point in a _really nice_ paint job since it will get messed up, I just want it durable and looking good at 10' or so)
If you want a excellent polyester surfacing primer for fiberglass, that can be built to 40 mils in one wet on wet application, check this stuff out.

http://www.duratec1.com/dp04.html

It's less than 50.00 a gallon, and is very durable, easy to sand, and is specifically made for filling sanding marks, low spots and only requires the same catalyst that you use for polyester resin. Sprays out well, thin it with mek up to 10% after catalyzation.
http://www.duratec1.com/Application_Guides/ag5.pdf

I have been using duratec primer on all of my fiberglass one offs, repairs, plug building and as a primer for mold repair for over 12 years with no problems. No shrink 2 months down the road, no cracking.

I've even sanded it with 600, polished it, waxed it and used it as a mold surface coating on low production molds.


You can put any other automotive primer, sealer, or epoxy over the top of duratec sanding primer.

I blocked this fiberglass34 with no finer than 180 grit , then primed this car with duratec in '97. When I took this pic in 2007 , there were no sand scratch marks or cracks anywhere. I did not paint the car.

Later, mikey
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Old 07-05-2009, 12:07 AM
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has anybody else used this ?I like saving cash.
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