I'm getting ready to start my engine rebuild. The motor was done not too long ago by another person. I bought it and when tearing it apart I noticed the crank and bearings were chewed up. So I'm getting the block cleaned and the crank turned. I'd also like to go through the heads when I'm putting it back together.
After much research, I came up with a list of tools which adds up to about $500.
I'm trying to cut the list down to something more affordable
Of all the tools mentioned, do I really need the valve spring tester? I've built a couple engines and worked with a couple buddies building motors. We never messed with a valve spring tester.
Here is my list.... let me know if you think it can be optimized.
• Deck bridge $20
• Magnetic base dial indicator $15
• Crankshaft turning socket $20
• Dial bore gauge $55
• Tap and die set to clean threads on engine $20
• Valve spring compressor $25
• Pushrod length checker $15
• Cam degree wheel $20
• 2 to 3 inch outside micrometer $40
• Engine cleaning kit to clean oil hole $15
• Small mic $25
• Valve lapping tool $10
• Blue layout dye $15
• Valve spring height mic $50
• Small hole gauge set $15
• Tapered ring compressor $45
• Valve lash tool $25
• Mini spring tester $80
Deck bridge is not an absolute necessity, the mag base w/dial indicator can do the same job.
If you have a pair of dial or digital calipers they can do the job of the valve spring mic.
You don't need the valve lash tool, a box end wrench and an allen wrench will do the job just fine.
If you go here, you can download a printable degree wheel....glue it to anything - cardboard, thin plywood, plexiglass, tin, thin aluminum sheet, steel sheetmetal, thin plastic like a picnic plate, pie plate, cheap pizza pan....anything you can cut into a circle and put a hole through the middle. Tavia Performance Products Downloadable Degree Wheel
The valve spring pressure checker isn't an absolute necessity unless you intend to do head set-up yourself....most machine shops can check a spring for you.
For $15 you're not looking at that weird plastic rocker arm thing are you? I could never get them to be reliable.
You can make an adjustable pushrod out of a used one. Then you only need a monster set of calipers to measure it. This is much more reliable to me, AND you get the large calipers which can be used for other things around the shop. It cuts down on single purpose tools.
You should probably also look for a machinists or mechanics straight edge. I got one at an antique shop for $7
You didn't mention a torque wrench. Do you have one, and have you had it calibrated? I still like beam-type torque wrenches honestly. Easier to zero and you can "hold" a reading
I don't have a Valvespring tester, valvespring height mic, a deck bridge or a dedicated lash adjuster. If I was considering a big-power build; of the 4, I might pick the valvespring tester. But if it was a big power build; I'd have the heads prepped by a specialist anyway LOL
Put some of that money into a book by David Vizard
You can get an old fashion adjustable ring compressor for 10 bucks, takes a little more time to use than a taper compressor but if you're not a production shop or engine building in the pits you can trade a few minutes of your time for 35 bucks.
The deck bridge can be made from a scrap steel as a stiff strap or piece of angle iron, it's only to provide a positive piston stop when doing the hunt for true TDC and exploring cam timing event horizons. It just needs to be thick enough so it doesn’t deflect when the piston hits the stop bolt. Of course you need 3 bolts 2 to fasten the thing to the deck and 1 for a piston stop.
You can turn the crankshaft with the damper bolt and a stack of washers to keep the bolt from bottoming in the crank.
If you’re not building a performance engine you can skip the spring tester.
Not sure you need to lap valves; the machine shop should do that when they cut seats. If you’re trying to use valve lapping as a way to avoid shopping the heads and valves, don’t! Hard seats and valves need to be machine cut or ground, lapping is a secondary operation done after that and to a large extent in my opinion is more a feel good operation rather than necessity.
The guy I got the motor from said it was a fresh rebuild with less than 1000 miles on it.
I opened up the case to find the oil a bit "frothy" which points to a water leak somewhere. I pulled the crank to find that the bearings were all chewed up.
The cylinders look very fresh and the hone looks new. The pistons and chambers are very clean. So that all backs up the "new motor" story.
I'm going to get the block and heads checked for cracks and cleaned. I want to check the valve seats and dimensions on everything before putting it back together.
I'm guessing that this motor is simply a victim of sloppy assembly. It had a water leak into the oil, the clutch pressure plate bolts were loose. The shifter bolts were loose. And the carburetor was way out of adjustment.
I'm hoping that the machining on the parts was done correctly.
Thats a valve train geometry checker Called a "Push Rod Length Checker", not for finding push rod length only for checking the push rod is right to achieve proper geometry its used also with an adjustable push rod so there is a better view of clearance then when using a rocker! The old tools like that you had to make or were very expensive, That plastic copy is very cheep and useful Ive used it for years and never had a problem! It is plastic though so is not damage proof ! Make sure you check every rockers geometry I have seen slight differences from cylinder to cylinder do not just check 1 intake and 1 exhaust and take for granted its the same on all!!
You can find many tools your looking for at pawn shops! Also many machine shops have gone digital and gladly sell their old non digital tools Or ask them where there are used tools available in your area! There is always a used tool store in large citys that retired mechanics ETC sell their unneeded tools to.
• Deck bridge $20 ==scraps of metal and a $10.00 H-Freight digital caliper
• Magnetic base dial indicator $15 ==Handy.
• Crankshaft turning socket $20= I've used a Crescent wrench for 40+ yrs.
• Dial bore gauge $55== also handy. But do you know how to measure bore
• Tap and die set to clean threads on engine $20= good to have.
• Valve spring compressor $25= correct one will be much more spendy
• Pushrod length checker $15 - I've used the little blue/h-made adj p-rod for too many years.
• Cam degree wheel $20= get the free one.
• 2 to 3 inch outside micrometer $40= H-freight digital vernier that you should already have.
• Engine cleaning kit to clean oil hole $15. ==Good to have
• Small mic $25== trusty H-freight digital vernier
• Valve lapping tool $10== If you must lap, use a small battery powered drill. Insert valve in guide with abrasive. chuck up the protruding stem in the drill chuck and have at it.. tapping the valve to seat as it is spinning to keep fresh abrasive on contact area.. A real, messy, waste of time if angles are correct to start.:spank:
• Blue layout dye $15== Magic Marker..
• Valve spring height mic $50== H-Freight digital vernier..
• Small hole gauge set $15= handy.
• Tapered ring compressor $45== as mentioned, band type is much cheaper.
• Valve lash tool $25= as mentioned. allen wrench and 5/8 box end wrench
• Mini spring tester $80= not worth price for one build. Machine shop will do it. I have never charged a for it, (one or two springs) some might charge nominal fee.
I always worried about cleaning all the valve lapping compound off....if any grit is left behind, it could be costly.
You didn't mention Plastigauge. You should get some; and make sure its not from the Carter administration. I bought some from an old auto parts store here and it was so old it crumbled LOL grrr
A good set of feeler gauges will be helpful, some ISKY Rev-Lube or Moly paste for the cam, something like Lubriplate 105 for crank and rod bearings (NOT a lithium grease, you need something that dissolves clean in petroleum) and some 30wt oil for the pistons and rings. A clean bed sheet or table cloth to lay everything out on, along with some nitrile gloves and a good list of assembly steps, and tolerance checks (write your findings down too).
This way you dont stop, start flipping through books or the internet in a hurry, come back, phone rings, come back, forget where you are, swear, drink beer, etc.
The heads are supposed to have a recent valve job. I want to have them checked at the machine shop for cracks because the motor had some water in the oil.
I'm going to lap the valves and check the seats with prussian blue before sending them to the machine shop. And hopefully, the seats will be good. Then I'll let the shop check them for cracks and clean them.
Thanks,
Sal
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