Do you need etching primer under featherfill primer? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2003, 03:32 PM
Fordy8man's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Augusta,Maine
Age: 27
Posts: 61
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Do you need etching primer under featherfill primer?

Do you need to use etching primer under featherfill primer. someone told me that i did but i thought why would i need to use a primer under a primer. if any info on this please let me know thanks. fordy8man

    Advertisement
__________________
Fordy8man
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2003, 05:12 PM
jwcnj45's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Jersey Shore
Posts: 102
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Etch primer is used for corrosion protection and not as a primer/surfacer like the feather fill. It "bites" into the metal and helps primers adhere correctly. Consult the spec sheets for the feather fill. It will tell you if an etch coat primer is recommended under it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 10-18-2003, 07:20 AM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,837
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 86 Times in 73 Posts
Most paint supplier spec sheets will call for an acid wash primer for bare metal preparation prior to applying a primer/surfacer.

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2003, 12:04 PM
PrimeMover's Avatar
Sittin' on top of the world...
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Portland, Oregon
Age: 63
Posts: 467
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I was just wondering, I know there are several ways to prep rusty areas before filler is applied. On a sandblasted surface, which is best - acid wash or etching primer, or is there much difference? I'm getting ready to work the body over on a 54 Chevy. I't has some rust issues around and under the stainless. Non of it has gone though yet, and I'd like to know the best way to stop rust dead in it's tracks, where skim-coats of plastic filler are used.

All the limited body work I've ever done, I've always applied the plastic directly to clean, dry bare metal. I never had any problems but then, I only kept those cars for 5 years average. I'd like to do the 54 as best I can.

I didn't mean to answer your question with another question, but this seemed like a good place to ask - thanks
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2003, 02:37 PM
jwcnj45's Avatar
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Jersey Shore
Posts: 102
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
A good epoxy primer is the way to go over clean sandblasted metal in my opinion. It will eliminate the etch coat process and give you excellent long term protection of the surface. This is important if you plan on leaving the metal in primer over an extended period of time. We have used this method many times over the years in the shop where I am employed on the restorations we do and have never had a problem with it. The epoxy will not only provide protection but it will also give you high film build to help level the sandblasted panels. Etch will give protection but will have to be primered anyway thus making it at least a two step process to get the results you want.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 10-20-2003, 03:29 PM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,837
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 86 Times in 73 Posts
After sandblasting the rust areas I would treat them with Ospho, or a substance like it. Then I would use the acid etch primer.

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 10-23-2003, 02:17 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Toronto
Posts: 87
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
"After sandblasting the rust areas I would treat them with Ospho, or a substance like it. Then I would use the acid etch primer."

What's the point of that? Using the Ospho is acid etching the surface anyway so putting an etch primer on top of that is simply duplicating the etching process.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 10-23-2003, 04:27 PM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,837
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 86 Times in 73 Posts
Ospho is very cheap insurance against rust getting another foothold. While the acid etching primer will help in stopping rust, it doesn't mean that you will never have a rust problem develope undr the finish.

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 10-23-2003, 09:46 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Austin, Minnesota
Age: 59
Posts: 105
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 8
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
etching primer under featherfill

Hey Guys,
I've been away for awhile ,but had a chance to browse the board tonight .I happened to see this thread and had to respond .
I don't know if ospho is anything like SEM Rustmort ,but if it is ,READ THE LABEL before you use it over sandblasted metal .
Rustmort 's label states that it is NOT to be used on sandblasted metal .
Before using Featherfill READ THE LABEL ,to see if it needs an etching primer under it .In my own experience it needs SOMETHING!! . My personal preference would be PPG Epoxy Primer ,(color don't matter) rather than etch primer on bare metal .
Also ,Evercoat (company that makes featherfill) also makes a product called Slick Sand .I have to tell you that IMO this is a much better ,easier ,and versatile product to use than Featherfill , and I've used both---MANY times .Slick Sand is just as good at filling ,is used much the same way ,and has better adhesion in my opinion.Also, if you read the label on Slick Sand ,it will tell you that it is recommended to be used on bare metal ,without etch primer .Above all other advice I can give you , is READ THE LABELS on anything you use .
Hope this helps . Rick
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 10-24-2003, 07:12 PM
PrimeMover's Avatar
Sittin' on top of the world...
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Portland, Oregon
Age: 63
Posts: 467
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks F1, I have to work this weekend but Monday, I'm headed out to pick up some material for the body work I need to do. I will check with 'em on Evercoat's Slick Sand. I've also used the acid etching clear liquid that you wipe onto bare metal before applying filler and had good luck with it. I think I'll pick up a little of each and toy around with it a bit.

Iv'e got all winter to iron out the body on the Delray. With Ya'll's help, I think this rookie is capable. Thanks all
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2003, 12:25 PM
galaxieguy3's Avatar
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Gouverneur, NY
Age: 47
Posts: 170
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hi All,
I am not any kind of professional when it comes to any body work subject, but thought I would share some of my experience with a couple products.
I have used Rust-Mort, quite extensively actually. From my experience it does work. When I used it, I was skeptical to say the least, and after a few years, impressed. Keep in mind that it does say to leave some rust, scrape off most of it, but leave enough to chemically react. In other words do not sandblast it before applying the Rust Mort.
On the subject of covering bare metal, I am told use either self etching primer or epoxy primer. I used epoxy primer the first time around on my Galaxie. when I stripped a couple years later the epoxy primer stuck very well, actually hard to get off. This time I used self etching primer. I sprayed over some spots that needed to be filled yet just to cover it up until I could get to it. It comes off alot easier than the epoxy did.
Moral of the story is....I would use epoxy primer on bare metal even though it costs more.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2003, 10:41 AM
troy-curt's Avatar
Shop Owner And Troll Hunter
 

Last journal entry: Detailing Eng. Compartment
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Prairie Grove Ar.
Age: 75
Posts: 2,646
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have been painting commercially for more than 40 years.
Very very rarely do I use etching primer. I use epoxy primer on every thing. and slick sand. I have never had any problems with paint coming off, or rust coming back, unless it was exposed to harsh conditions, and nothing would have helped stop that.

Good Luck
Troy
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2003, 10:10 PM
PrimeMover's Avatar
Sittin' on top of the world...
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Portland, Oregon
Age: 63
Posts: 467
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks Troy, that's good to know
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2003, 01:32 PM
bullheimer's Avatar
NEVER use credit cards!
 

Last journal entry: car with tt2's, (stockers going back on)
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: North of Seattle
Posts: 2,529
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 4 Posts
welcome back F-1

so you can put the slick sand, or other bondo, right over epoxy primer just like it was any other primer? that means it's sandable right?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2003, 07:23 PM
troy-curt's Avatar
Shop Owner And Troll Hunter
 

Last journal entry: Detailing Eng. Compartment
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Prairie Grove Ar.
Age: 75
Posts: 2,646
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I never put bondo over anything.Only on bare metal.

Troy
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:14 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.