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Old 04-07-2004, 03:36 PM
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do you still heat the paint to lay it flat??

i'm using nason b/c.i laid some paint down on the door jambs, it seems to be sort of orange peeley,not really, sorta like the paint on a new kia lol.anyway it seems like it will be heck to wet sand. do they still warm up the paint before spraying??will this help it to lay out "flatter"? the directions on the clear say you don't reduce it. so will i ,or will i heat it up??the room is about 68 farenheight.mike

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Old 04-07-2004, 04:52 PM
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Heat the paint?

Heating the paints worked real good with the old synthetic enamels and some old type acrylic enamels with out using hardener.
Todays urethanes if heated will go on dry and solvent pop and the isocyanate will clump and look like specs of dirt.
What peel? Base coat? or the clear coat?
The base you can add a little extra reducer to fit your gun.
The clear will not be hurt if you put a shot glass (2oz) per quart of urethane reducer in it.

The bottom line is your paint gun either has to big of a tip or its out of adjustment. 1.4 is most common for base/clear.
Tog get rid of orange peel adjust the fluid in 1/2 turn at a time until the base sprays slick, than adjust again for the clear as the clear is thicker. (remember fluid adjustment is peel and air adjustment is runs)
Also check and make sure your wall regulator is set as high as it will go and do you air adjusting at the gun. Common screwup is people think if I want 40lbs of air at gun I can adjust the wall regulator to say 50 for a 10lb drop. The air does not break up the paint as much as the scfm does. This is more true with an HVLP.

I wrote a paper on paint gun adjusting a few years ago and don't think it would be proper to post it here as its a business site, it gives step by step directions so if you want it email me off site and I will give you the web address.
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Old 04-07-2004, 09:48 PM
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I would agree that OVER heating urethanes would cause those problems but simply warming them up does not. Temperature and humidity play a key role. I tend to warm my clear to get viscosity rather than use reducer when doing bikes. I do this to keep the solvent level down to keep graphics intact.
The problem here is like Barry said, the gun needs to be adjusted properly and you can give the clear a shot of reducer. However, make sure you match your activator with the temperature. Nason is very fast as a whole. What clear?? 496, 497, 465. You also need to make sure your sealer and base are flat. You could lay a couple beautiful wet coats of clear over a nasty substrate and as soon as the solvents come out of the clear you have a nasty peel in the clear, it all starts at the bottom.

On a side note.... Barry, I disagree on the line drop issue. If you don't regulate at the wall.. Every-time you let go of the trigger and then trigger again you get a higher pressure blast. There is no gun made that can compensate for this .... Not yet. This could cause big problems with your high metallics. I do agree that scfm's are what move the product properly. And I think the common screwup people make is to use 1/4" nipples and couplers that restrict the air an HVLP needs rather than using 3/8" hose, nipples and couplers that they need to function properly.
I don't want to step on your toes, but the subject is debatable.

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Old 04-07-2004, 11:39 PM
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you want car to be warm, 65-75 degrees, then paint lays better
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