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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2011, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldschool hero
The only thing I would lift with that thing would be just an intake.
Give me grade 8 bolts and a good loadbearing chain any day.And the factory lifting rings that are on Chevy engines,well I had one of those to rip open and dropped an engine once,thankful it was coming out. I just cant see trying to install an engine with only one point of lifting .Just an unbalanced load of alot of money hanging,waiting for catastrophy.
With just a long block engine and flexplate or flywheel the engine is balanced perfectly for an easy installation. I will use mine everytime . I have already proof tested this with the complete 454 and T400 trans as mentioned in my earlier post. BTW. That did not balance good at all and we won't do that going back in . Also, the carb bolts on a chevy are 5/16" , not 1/4" .........Allan

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Old 03-17-2011, 09:20 AM
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Well my engine builder, who is professional and makes his living building engines from street builds to offshore race boats, installed one on my 460 with aluminum intake and used it to set the engine in my truck bed, I too was nervous, but obviously he wouldn't risk his profits if the plate didn't work. I've attached a pic from my journal to show that I used this same plate to install the 460 with a C6 attached recently. no fears at all any more..
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Old 03-17-2011, 09:38 AM
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lift plate, Not me !!

I've seen alot of bad threads on aluminum manifolds . I have the lift bar with the crank to adjust the tilt, the only way to go , I shortened one lifter. I had problems with the chains interfering with the cowl top I also have one of the lift bars with multiple hoist holes they used in the Ford factory for installing engines. I have a box full of various factory lift rings, different sizes and shapes. The Ford factory bar was hard to use on the assembly line to get a 428 into a mustang The guys used to leave a big scratch on the firewall !!
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Old 03-17-2011, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hwyhogg
Well my engine builder, who is professional and makes his living building engines from street builds to offshore race boats, installed one on my 460 with aluminum intake and used it to set the engine in my truck bed, I too was nervous, but obviously he wouldn't risk his profits if the plate didn't work. I've attached a pic from my journal to show that I used this same plate to install the 460 with a C6 attached recently. no fears at all any more..
That looks real good. I think I shall build a new lift plate with the muliple choice on the lifting position as pictured for reinstalling the 454 with the trans attached. Thanks a bunch for sharing the pic.
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Old 03-17-2011, 11:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr
With just a long block engine and flexplate or flywheel the engine is balanced perfectly for an easy installation. I will use mine everytime . I have already proof tested this with the complete 454 and T400 trans as mentioned in my earlier post. BTW. That did not balance good at all and we won't do that going back in . Also, the carb bolts on a chevy are 5/16" , not 1/4" .........Allan
That's right, they are 5/16" I knew that but said 1/4" instead. I stand corrected. Sorry.
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Old 03-18-2011, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Overdriv
I like these, one on each end of the engine. Makes it really easy to level the engine with these.
never seen one like this but I love it, I'll make one myself today.
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Old 03-18-2011, 12:31 PM
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I've been using lift plates for 35+ years. I've lifted everything from big block Ford and Chevy with Aluminum Intakes and Transmissions as a unit, never had a problem. Small chevys back in the 70's only had two carb studs and never did drop one. With a cherry picker it just seems like a natural.
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Old 03-18-2011, 12:56 PM
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This needs polling.
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:12 PM
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I pulled my engine and transmission a month or two ago using the lift plate on an aluminum intake. I was also nervous with the aluminum intake so I made a special trip to the hardware store for grade 8 bolts and washers. I made sure the bolts were long enough to catch as many threads as possible.
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Old 03-28-2011, 07:46 PM
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Just built a new plate today with multiple hook holes for installing the eng. trans. combo.
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Old 03-29-2011, 06:06 AM
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I do not understand why some think a grade 8 bolt is necessary. The proof strength on a grade 5 1/4" bolt is 4165 lbs of load. Times that by 4 and you have over 16,000 lbs of lifting capacity.
As overedriv stated, the weakest point is the quality of threads in the manifold. Grade 8 bolts make no difference with this factor.

I personally use an engine load leveller. Attaches at 4 corners, its longitudinal angle is adjustable so you can tilt the engine as it raises or lowers .

You can buy them at Autozone, Oreilly's or similiar for around $30-40.

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Old 03-29-2011, 07:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adantessr
Just built a new plate today with multiple hook holes for installing the eng. trans. combo.
Post a pic for us Allan. i use one that looks like the one in the pic below.




Cole
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Old 03-29-2011, 07:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Fool
I do not understand why some think a grade 8 bolt is necessary. The proof strength on a grade 5 1/4" bolt is 4165 lbs of load. Times that by 4 and you have over 16,000 lbs of lifting capacity.
As overedriv stated, the weakest point is the quality of threads in the manifold. Grade 8 bolts make no difference with this factor.

I personally use an engine load leveller. Attaches at 4 corners, its longitudinal angle is adjustable so you can tilt the engine as it raises or lowers .

You can buy them at Autozone, Oreilly's or similiar for around $30-40.


Unfortunately many bolts found in the big box stores, ACE, etc are Chinese. Now, if you can trust their QC as well as steel quality..........go for it. If I need a ho hum Gr 5 for a non load bearing joint or for safety, I'll go to Tractor Supply and for a very few more cents will get their Gr8 and "assume" that it at least meets Gr5 specs. If I really need the strength, I'll go someplace like Fastenal or order from ARP.

Dave W
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Old 03-29-2011, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eloc431962
Post a pic for us Allan. i use one that looks like the one in the pic below.




Cole
I will in a couple of days. I am going over to put a shift kit in my buddy's turbo 400 that we are going to bolt to the back of the 454 that is still in my garage. Hope to install the combo Saturday. I'll take a pic with the engine hanging on the plate ...................Allan
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Old 03-29-2011, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
Unfortunately many bolts found in the big box stores, ACE, etc are Chinese. Now, if you can trust their QC as well as steel quality..........go for it. If I need a ho hum Gr 5 for a non load bearing joint or for safety, I'll go to Tractor Supply and for a very few more cents will get their Gr8 and "assume" that it at least meets Gr5 specs. If I really need the strength, I'll go someplace like Fastenal or order from ARP.

Dave W
I have put some serious torque on the grade 8 bolts that I have gotten from Lowe's and haven't been able to distort the threads or break a bolt yet. Local Smith Fastener or Fastenall is cheaper, but is a longer drive, so for just a couple bolts, I go to Lowe's .
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