i agree with u on this.. i just don't trust them, but they are made to do what u are wanting to do.. lifting the motor.. i always use bolts on the front/rear of heads...
Never seen one break but DAMN it seems like there is a lot of force on those four little bolts! But then I get the heebie Jeebies with a only two bolts at each end of the heads as is usually used too. It just seems like a LOT of force on those bolts. But I have NEVER seen one break.
Ditto on the bolts at each end of both heads. Grade 5 or better 3/8" in the accessory holes - never had one bent or broken and I usually pull the trans with the engine.
I have one and have use it but i will admit it does make me alittle nervous. :sweat: I usually go to the head like most do . But i do know guy's that they will use the plate just about every time and swear by it.
I have a set of OEM Ford plates that I use along with case chain. Those screw links are not used - I use Gr8 bolts 3/8x 1-1/2 along with some extra header bolts:
I imagine Chevy has something similar or some can be made from some 1/4 to 3/8 stock. I also have a grunge set of valve covers so the chains wont damage my nice aluminum versions.
The key IMO to safely using one of those engine plates with an aluminum manifold is using grade 8 bolts and above all make sure you have FULL thread engagement.
I have a set of OEM Ford plates that I use along with case chain. Those screw links are not used - I use Gr8 bolts 3/8x 1-1/2 along with some extra header bolts:
I imagine Chevy has something similar or some can be made from some 1/4 to 3/8 stock. I also have a grunge set of valve covers so the chains wont damage my nice aluminum versions.
I know that when I was working as a mechanic at both the Chevy dealership and the Ford dealership neither one would let the mechanics use them, it could get you fired if you did.
I have pulled big blocks with them plates, I made one myself, but I do admit that it makes me feel nervous, I use it because I figured that if they failed someone had already sued the manufacturer big time and they would of being recalled already, but I still see them on catalogs.
The tension that only one stud can hold is way much higher than the weigth of an engine, and 4 of them are used, it worries me more the integrity of the threads in the manifold, specially aluminum, but it's a lot more than we could imagine.
We pulled a 454 with all of the accessories including the A/C compressor, plus the turbo 400 still bolted to the back of it using the carburetor base threaded holes on the intake and a lifting plate I had made from pieces of 1/8" x 1" (cause that's all I had at the time to build one from). The 1/8" x 1" got some nice bends to it but nothing broke . I call this the ultimate test. I am a little leary of going back in with this bolted to the aluminum intake that is now on the engine though. BTW. The front clip was off the donor vehicle, as it also is on the truck that this is going in to .
I also use the plate to pull the engine and transmission together, with aluminum intakes also, but I admit I am a little bit nervous. I usually do about two pulls a year with this method.
Well I think everyone one feels as I do. I've lifted with the plate but it makes me nervous. The aluminum threads in the manifold is my nervous point.
4 1/4X20 threads in one inch deep is about the equivalent of a one inch bolt in an inch deep, but the threads in the aluminum have to be a good set of threads in all 4 holes, or I won't use it. And even then I use my chains when ever I can.
The only thing I would lift with that thing would be just an intake.
Give me grade 8 bolts and a good loadbearing chain any day.And the factory lifting rings that are on Chevy engines,well I had one of those to rip open and dropped an engine once,thankful it was coming out. I just cant see trying to install an engine with only one point of lifting .Just an unbalanced load of alot of money hanging,waiting for catastrophy.
The only thing I would lift with that thing would be just an intake.
Give me grade 8 bolts and a good loadbearing chain any day.And the factory lifting rings that are on Chevy engines,well I had one of those to rip open and dropped an engine once,thankful it was coming out. I just cant see trying to install an engine with only one point of lifting .Just an unbalanced load of alot of money hanging,waiting for catastrophy.
With just a long block engine and flexplate or flywheel the engine is balanced perfectly for an easy installation. I will use mine everytime . I have already proof tested this with the complete 454 and T400 trans as mentioned in my earlier post. BTW. That did not balance good at all and we won't do that going back in . Also, the carb bolts on a chevy are 5/16" , not 1/4" .........Allan
Well my engine builder, who is professional and makes his living building engines from street builds to offshore race boats, installed one on my 460 with aluminum intake and used it to set the engine in my truck bed, I too was nervous, but obviously he wouldn't risk his profits if the plate didn't work. I've attached a pic from my journal to show that I used this same plate to install the 460 with a C6 attached recently. :sweat: no fears at all any more..
I've seen alot of bad threads on aluminum manifolds . I have the lift bar with the crank to adjust the tilt, the only way to go , I shortened one lifter. I had problems with the chains interfering with the cowl top I also have one of the lift bars with multiple hoist holes they used in the Ford factory for installing engines. I have a box full of various factory lift rings, different sizes and shapes. The Ford factory bar was hard to use on the assembly line to get a 428 into a mustang The guys used to leave a big scratch on the firewall !!
Well my engine builder, who is professional and makes his living building engines from street builds to offshore race boats, installed one on my 460 with aluminum intake and used it to set the engine in my truck bed, I too was nervous, but obviously he wouldn't risk his profits if the plate didn't work. I've attached a pic from my journal to show that I used this same plate to install the 460 with a C6 attached recently. :sweat: no fears at all any more..
That looks real good. I think I shall build a new lift plate with the muliple choice on the lifting position as pictured for reinstalling the 454 with the trans attached. Thanks a bunch for sharing the pic.
With just a long block engine and flexplate or flywheel the engine is balanced perfectly for an easy installation. I will use mine everytime . I have already proof tested this with the complete 454 and T400 trans as mentioned in my earlier post. BTW. That did not balance good at all and we won't do that going back in . Also, the carb bolts on a chevy are 5/16" , not 1/4" .........Allan
I've been using lift plates for 35+ years. I've lifted everything from big block Ford and Chevy with Aluminum Intakes and Transmissions as a unit, never had a problem. Small chevys back in the 70's only had two carb studs and never did drop one. With a cherry picker it just seems like a natural.
I pulled my engine and transmission a month or two ago using the lift plate on an aluminum intake. I was also nervous with the aluminum intake so I made a special trip to the hardware store for grade 8 bolts and washers. I made sure the bolts were long enough to catch as many threads as possible.
I do not understand why some think a grade 8 bolt is necessary. The proof strength on a grade 5 1/4" bolt is 4165 lbs of load. Times that by 4 and you have over 16,000 lbs of lifting capacity.
As overedriv stated, the weakest point is the quality of threads in the manifold. Grade 8 bolts make no difference with this factor.
I personally use an engine load leveller. Attaches at 4 corners, its longitudinal angle is adjustable so you can tilt the engine as it raises or lowers .
You can buy them at Autozone, Oreilly's or similiar for around $30-40.
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