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Old 03-10-2011, 02:51 PM
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dodge dakota stalling wont start problem

6v going to coil when cranking and volts drop while testing. but no spark @ the dist. coil as I take it off the dist, and hold close to ground. Shouldnt I be getting 12v @ coil? Recently, it would start fine and strong then die and not start back up. Before that it would start back up if you let it sit for a minute.

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Old 03-11-2011, 05:58 PM
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You should be getting battery voltage to the dist. while cranking.
1- Make sure all grounds are good. Sometimes the battery cables have bad terminals.
2- Have the battery tested. Make sure it's not shot.
3- The computer controls ignition spark and timing. The main input sensors for this are the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor. The trouble codes may not report them bad but replace them both and report back.

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Old 03-11-2011, 06:43 PM
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could be weak battery (threshold voltage) shorted injector(s) a fuel pump drawing to much current, corrosion at the splice in the harness between the engine and the ASD relay.
Battery voltage is critical as the ecm has a threshold voltage( minimum voltage it will operate at.Chances are thats not it. As you stated you had the negative pulse at the coil and the problem seem to be to low of voltage for the coil.
Need to check the fuel pump for excessive current draw, check the injector resistance,maybe one is shorted causing a voltage drop as the injectors, fuel pump,ignition coil are all on the same feed from the ASD.
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Old 03-12-2011, 10:33 AM
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Good morning latech, I STILL HAVE TO REPLACE THE COIL. Ya, too low 5.5-6v. When I turn key on fuel pump operates and it smells like inject.are gettin gas to throttle body, now if there was a short in injectors would'nt the ASD kick in THUS ALSO CUTTING OFF THE NEGATIVE PULSE? Am I correct in assuming that once the neg. pulse test was performed and good, that tells me that the ECM and crank & cam sensors good. Oh, latech, other day I swapped A/C CLUTCH RELAY with ASD AND THE TRUCK FIRED AND DIED AND A LITTLE STRING OF SMOKE ROSE FROM THE POS. SIDE BATTERY POST. I have since cleaned and tightened posts. The small red wire that is manufactured in the pos. terminal and goes to the harness, was broke and only 1/3 hanging on plus green corrosion so I cut it back put it on an eye fitting and put it on the bolt.
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Old 03-12-2011, 11:16 AM
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Are you checking power to the coil with it unplugged as instructed?
Voltage will be lower with the coil plugged in and cranking as this causes a voltage drop.
As discussed earlier the fact you had power to the coil while cranking verifys the cam sensor is ok as it is signaling the ecm to run the asd circuit(power up)
The fact you have a negative pulse to the coil side indicates the crank sensor is generating a signal and being processed by the ecm to pulse the Ignition coil.
I am thinking there may be a corrosion problem at the splice in the wiring where the Red/white splices after leaving the power distribution center.
That is why I suggested to verify voltage at the coil positive with the coil unplugged and cranking to see if you still have a low voltage, which would be indicative of high circuit restance, like a corroded or melted connector or corroded splice in the voltage wire to the coil.
Also checking the injector resistance to see if one could be shorted and also verifying the power consumption (amps darw) of the fule pump to determine if it is sucking up too much current resulting in a low voltage to the coil.
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Old 03-12-2011, 05:30 PM
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LATECH...... thank you very much for suggesting the pulse test! I tested it again today and no pulse then something was moved and bingo, the light flashed a pulse! So I plug it back in and it starts then dies after 20sc, then no pulse..... so I hooked my light back in to check pulse moved the harness right next to the SBEC II, while cranking and, BAMM!!!, pulse is present! I pulled cover off SBEC II and disconnected and reconnected, the car then started and all circuits remained closed (car ran). In theory I believe one of the prongs developed rust around it causing an isolated circuit and when I disconnected and reconnected it cleaned the film off and BAMM! I might be delusional , let me know what you think. You da man thanks for your time and help!!
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Old 03-12-2011, 05:39 PM
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The pin is loose on the circuit board in the SBEC at least that is what it sounds like. I have had that problem before on mopars jeeps and on a few fords as well.
Glad you found it. ride on.
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Old 03-12-2011, 05:48 PM
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I used to have a dakota with simular symptoms, not to say it's not your coil...... mine ended up being the fuel pump relay..... I swapped it out for the horn relay and it started right up.
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