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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2006, 02:36 PM
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Dont spray it without a hardener! If you use the hardener you can sand and buff just like bc/cc. I use a wool pad on it though because its a little tougher to buff. If you dont use hardener i dont think you can do anything with it as far as buffing and it will look like crap, dull and not as durable..That pic is single stage Centari (Dupont).Original GM color. It is more forgiving of surface prep than bc/cc. Its pretty thick stuff.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2006, 04:55 PM
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Thanks for the tip on the hardener, I'll definately use it. Do you touch it up with a foam pad afterwards. I LOVE the foam pad for buffing BC/CC, NO SWIRL MARKS Do you set your gun any different when you spray single stage? What do you do about runs (God forbid), just sand them out like BC/CC?


A GOOD PAINTER NEVER GETS THE RUNS
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Old 01-08-2006, 06:23 PM
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Yes i go back over it with a foam pad. Treat runs the same. you probably will need to readjust your gun. I would maybe try a practice panel before you paint the car.
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Old 01-08-2006, 07:11 PM
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You can do some pretty nice work with single stage urethane by applying three coats then colorsanding then apply two more. Solid non-metalic colors can be buffed. Some of the old DAU-Deltron jobs I did back in the late eighties still look fresh today. I'd never consider using a single stage metalic unless I was painting a wrecker or work truck or similar. JMO, Bob
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Old 01-09-2006, 04:45 AM
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single stage in black

Im not a body or paint guy..I leave that to the pros. I have " heard " ( never seen it that Im aware of ) That you can put two-three coats of single stage
then mix 50% clear with 50% single stage for two coats and have a really deep looking and durable paint job? Especially, in a black or any solid color.
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Old 01-09-2006, 06:53 AM
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You have to be carefull rubbing out acrylic enamel, not all colors
will allow you to do it very well. Most blue colors are almost impossible,
the ones with a metallic in them will show "rings" when color sanding.
If you expose the metallic particles when sanding/buffing it will dull
quickly because it will oxidise. It's best to cover with an enamel
clear coat if you're going to buff.
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Old 01-09-2006, 08:13 AM
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You had to say BLUE didn't you, that's the color I'm painting my truck (not metallic though) Are you talking specifcally metallics or non metallics as well?
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Old 01-09-2006, 08:24 AM
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I really don't know if it's different.
I just know that a car I painted years ago was blue and a metallic
and I couldn't color sand it without getting rings, it was a mess.
I repainted and cleared it and it turned out beautiful.
when I told the guy at the paint store about the rings he said
"oh, you can't sand and rub out blue, didn't you know that?"
Maybe your paint will be different but I'd try a small test first
or clear it.
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Old 01-10-2006, 10:26 AM
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UUUUHHHHHGGGGG..... I looked through the color chart at the paint store yesterday and picked a color of blue that I thought looked good so I got it. I got everything ready to paint today, got the shop up to 70 degrees, wet the floor, wiped everything down with cleaner, got the gun set up, opened the can of paint and it looked like the color of a SMURF It's so hard to tell by looking at a 1"x1" spot of paint in the book. I should have looked in the can before I left the paint store. Now I have to send it back and make it darker.
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Old 01-10-2006, 11:30 AM
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Take an ounce or so out now and spray a test panel
to try and sand and buff.
You may need the room for toner anyway.
I'd love to hear if you can color sand it.
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Old 01-11-2006, 07:06 AM
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I went to the paint dept. and had them add/mix black until I got the color I wanted. I'm painting it today (Wednesday) I'll let you know how it turns out. What will happen if I wait to long in between coats, the tech sheet says 10 min., but what will it do if I wait about 20? Will I be able to spray a heavier coat after the longer time wait?
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Old 01-11-2006, 08:43 AM
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I don't know the answer to that one grape man.
I do remember that when I sprayed enamel I could never get the finish
I was after unless I painted it twice. I'd paint it the first time just enough
for the color to cover, let it sit overnight then wet sand smooth
and respray just a couple of wet coats. I used retarder in my enamel
so I could mist it on and it would level beautifully. It stayed wet a long
time that way and you had to keep it clean but the finish looked like
it had been buffed. I could never get it that smooth on the first spraying.
That retarder makes it stay wet and flow where as the reducer makes
it run.
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Old 01-11-2006, 09:26 AM
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That's interesting, I wonder what retarder would do on the first couple of coats, if it would make it flow. I got my hood painted and there was slight orange peel so I mixed more paint and slopped it on with a 5 gallon pail to get more paint on it Just kidding, I made that part up ,,,,,I mixed up more paint and sprayed one more heavy coat and it looked a lot better. It looked like orange peel but after it sat for approx. 1/2 hour it looked better like it flowed out while it was setting. On the curves of the hood that were on top it looks AWESOME but on the flat part of the hood it looks only good, (I painted it with the hood standing straight up). Since this is my truck as a guinee pig I'd like to try some different things to see what works and what don't. Maybe I'll try retarded paint, the way some of this stuff looks sometimes afterwards, you'd think all paint is RETARDED
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2006, 10:14 AM
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I wouldn't recommend retarder in the first couple of coats, it
takes forever to dry and you may create solvent pop issues.
It does seem to level out the previous coats when you spray the last
coat with it. It really works, I use way more than recommend but
never had a problem, except maybe my patients waiting for it to dry.
I also spray wood cabinets and furniture with lacquer, and do the same
thing. After the last coat I add retarder in the cup for one last
"wet all over" coat. It makes it just sit there and look at you like
you just sprayed oil on it, LOL. But what a great flow-out.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2006, 12:59 PM
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I've seen guys spray enamel and make it come out perfect, how do they do that without retarder and stuff? I've heard of guys putting extra reducer in the last coat also, does that work? I'm itching to see if this enamel will buff decent with hardener, how long do you think I should wait?

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