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Old 03-19-2006, 07:41 PM
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Does anyone make a wax for hiding scratches??

I got the 442 done but there are a couple of scratches on the trunk that I think are to deep to buff out. Does anyone make a black or clear wax that would fill in those scratches so they were unseen? When I waxed it with my usual wax it fills the scratch with white making it even more visible.
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Old 03-19-2006, 07:56 PM
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when you say wax, you don't mean a sealer wax do you? That new paint still needs time to breath. Did you get some dirt under the paper when you were sanding or something. If you put on enough clear, I would try knocking out the scratch wetsanding them again and rebuff. A wool pad first if needed. With a wool pad, I can sand an area with as course as 600, go over with 1000, and finish up with foam pads and finer compounds if there is enough clear left. A glaze will fill in minor scratches, but will eventually wear off. You don't want to use any sealer type of wax though. Glazes, compounds, polishes at this point only, or it could very well dull out for good. I think 3m makes products for use on dark colored cars, but never used them myself.
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Old 03-20-2006, 05:25 AM
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I'm not sure where they came from but they are both deep and about 2 inches long. I was thinking of just taking a black crayon and filling them in. I don't want to do the whole car, just the 2 scratches.
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Old 03-20-2006, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STATUTORY GRAPE
I got the 442 done but there are a couple of scratches on the trunk that I think are to deep to buff out. Does anyone make a black or clear wax that would fill in those scratches so they were unseen? When I waxed it with my usual wax it fills the scratch with white making it even more visible.
You will never cover them up with any wax or glaze product or crayon.

Sand them lightly with a piece of 1500 sand paper (wet) backed up with a cut-off piece of paint stirring stick. Then buff it with 3M Imperial microfiniish compound and a wool pad. Final buff it with 3M Finessit II with a fresh wool pad.

You are only risking having to re-clear the panel if your clear thickness isn't enough for this.
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Old 03-20-2006, 03:45 PM
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yeah, I agree with roger. If you try touching up you are still going to notice them. Try wetsanding and rebuffing them. Worst case senerio, you go through the clear and hit the base. Then just wetsand the whole trunk with 800-1000 wet, sand the area with the scratches with maybe 600 wet till there gone, spot and blend the base on the bad spots, clear the trunk. Even if they don't come out buffing, least the trunk isn't an overly big area to redo, plus easy to unbolt and very little masking you would have to do. You could also try brushing some activated clear in to fill the scratch, wetsand after cured, and sand and buff, but chances are slim it that you won't be able to see where you did it.

Last edited by kenseth17; 03-20-2006 at 03:51 PM.
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Old 03-20-2006, 04:29 PM
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"You could also try brushing some activated clear in to fill the scratch, wetsand after cured, and sand and buff, but chances are slim it that you won't be able to see where you did it."


This approach works well but you must be patient!! Take every possible precaution from having it run out of the scratches. It will look like it's above the surface while wet. LET IT DRY COMPLETELY. Then as stated above sand it down, but use a stick like roger1 says. If the scratch is clean, you filled it in carefully, block it with caution and finesse, you'll never ever see it. I just did this on a metallic silver-green about 2 weeks ago. They're still building it in the tech area and I'll tell ya, it just isn't there now. IT WORKS!!
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Old 03-21-2006, 05:56 AM
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I tried sanding some but it looks deep. I probably try sanding a little at a time real slow and see how it goes. If I feel like i'm going to deep, I'm going to try the activated clear thing (that's a good idea) From now on I'm not going to post here, I'm just going to ask kenseth, he knows EVERYTHING!!!!
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Old 03-21-2006, 06:40 AM
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Scratch Cover

Head over to your local Pep Boys or AutoZone or whatever. They have polishes (not waxes) in color to cover scratches. Not perfect, but not bad either.

I've filled scratches on my wife's caddy and they absolutely disappeared. Just about perfect. Here's how.

Go to your local auto paint distributor. They have a computer matching machine they can use to match the paint (you'll still need the paint codes) and get a small bottle of touch-up made with the little applicator brush. Clean out the scratches REALLY well with solventnand grease and wax remover. Paint in the scratch with your little applicator brush, then a couple of coats of clear nail polish (really just clear lacquer).

After it's really dry, wet sand it smooth with a 1,000 grit or finer and then polish it. Like magic, no more scratch.
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Old 03-21-2006, 04:08 PM
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From now on I'm not going to post here, I'm just going to ask kenseth, he knows EVERYTHING!!!!
Lol, hardly. I feel like a big dummy compared to most on here. Babbob is the one the knows quite a bit and explain it well. When barry or powder bill start speaking there technical speak, my head spins. Out of my area, I just try to mix the stuff and hope it stays on, don't have really a clue whats in it and why it works or doesn't work. As far as knowing the little I do,Its called getting old and being around it for awhile. I haven't painted full time for a living in awhile now, but picked up a few tricks each place I've worked, even if the job was short lived. I've worked on everything from used car lot bones at a dealership when still just a kid, and wrecks at another place with cheap omni base/clear. Take shortcuts, get it pretty decent, and good enough, learn little tricks to make it good enough to sell, then the other end of the spectrum, bodywork and quite a bit of painting at another shop where the owner was a lot more quality oriented and picky then the other places, spraying chromabase system, very little filler, even had to lead there once (wouldn't remember how now) and tech school which teaches all the steps you should be taking where you are not concerned about production. Now I am working on big rigs, quite a few new learning experiences there. I'll never know it all, and doubt anyone one does, just a few that think they do. I try to answer your questions when I can, ya know, cheeseheads have to stick together.
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Old 03-21-2006, 06:47 PM
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I like the idea of the touch up and clear nail polish I'm going to use that idea and see how it works. Cheap Omni BC/CC ha ha ha ha ha ....... HEY .....that's what I use I was talking to someone who knows a lot about painting and he said something about when it gets below 50 degrees, something about the paint not being able to cross something (technical term) and all this time I thought it needed to be warm just to keep it from running

Last edited by STATUTORY GRAPE; 03-21-2006 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 03-21-2006, 08:05 PM
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I have to disagree with your choice. If you really don't think you have enough clear thickness to sand it out and polish, I'd go with the dabbed-in activated clear method that Kenseth and Highlander recommended.

Quote:
Originally Posted by STATUTORY GRAPE
I like the idea of the touch up and clear nail polish I'm going to use that idea and see how it works. Cheap Omni BC/CC ha ha ha ha ha ....... HEY .....that's what I use I was talking to someone who knows a lot about painting and he said something about when it gets below 50 degrees, something about the paint not being able to cross something (technical term) and all this time I thought it needed to be warm just to keep it from running
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Old 03-21-2006, 08:17 PM
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Grape, I must admit I wasn't aware of that the temps must be in the fiftys for crosslinking to take place. Funny how was never informed of that through the years. I notice on a clear I use it says not to paint if below 55 degrees, many don't say a thing. Now I know the reason. Here is a discussion about that topic.
Crosslinking and Temperature
Okay I'll rephrase, omni is not cheap, but in the scheme of things and compared to the prices in the higher lines from the big manufacturers, what do you call it?
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