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Old 05-12-2014, 09:05 AM
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Does my car need trunk pans?

I have '75 Chevelle Malibu and the trunk pans are in sad shape. Getting ready to start in on it, and was wondering if I really need the trunk pans? Sorry if this is a dumb question, but honestly I don't care if I have a trunk or not. If I remove it I was going to put some metal behind the seat. But do I need these pans for structural support?

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Old 05-12-2014, 11:00 AM
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The basis for a good solid car is, well, a good solid car. The trunk pans will add alot of integrity to the overall strength of the finished product. I believe it will be easier to cut out the bad pans and weld in new ones than to try to rig something up. Do it right and you'll be much happier in the long run. Hey, if this stuff was easy everybody would be doing it.
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Old 05-12-2014, 12:00 PM
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Post some photos, if it is simply pitted rust, or even some holes here and there (pitting holes, not stick your fist thru holes) it could be very fixable. Depending on your skills, equipment, work space, money, etc.

Brian
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Old 05-12-2014, 04:12 PM
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If it came with it,Then I would say it's needed.... If it's worth having it's worth fixing...UNLESS!!!!! Your planing on a dirt track car.... I vote to fix it...
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Old 05-12-2014, 04:33 PM
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The rear of the car is bolted to the frame through the trunk floor so absolutely ,you need it.
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Old 05-12-2014, 04:59 PM
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Guys, you have no idea what "sad shape" means! It likely needs them but without photos it's kind of a "how much does it take to fix a dent?" Kinda question.

Now mind you, I can't make it clear enough, you both are likely RIGHT but goodness, we need to see what he is talking about.

Brian
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Old 05-12-2014, 05:09 PM
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The gas tank is fastened to the trunk pan....I do believe you need that.

If your question is do you need the exact formed factory replacement type pan??, no you don't if you don't want to spend for them, it can just be hand fitted from flat sheet if you want.

As has been said, there are some body mounts fastened to the trunk pan and frame.
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Old 05-12-2014, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
Guys, you have no idea what "sad shape" means! It likely needs them but without photos it's kind of a "how much does it take to fix a dent?" Kinda question.

Now mind you, I can't make it clear enough, you both are likely RIGHT but goodness, we need to see what he is talking about.

Brian
Well I know what "Do I need it " means. like I said, absolutely yes, you need it...
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Old 05-12-2014, 05:23 PM
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Do I need a Beer, yes I do!


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Old 05-12-2014, 05:24 PM
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Well I know what "Do I need it " means. like I said, absolutely yes, you need it...
You read what I read...
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Old 05-12-2014, 09:37 PM
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So I got a chance to snap some pictures of what I am working on. The side pans or fillers are missing and I have just the large pan. I put some screw drivers to mark the rust a little better. Some other areas are heavy pitted, but not through. From the screw driver to the quarter has spots that are fully gone. Picked at it a bit and nothing else is soft except that spot. Probably 12'' x 6'' around the area thats pointed out.

I appreciate the input. I understand this isn't doing the repair necessarily "right", but honestly I could use the funds towards other things this car really needs. I am just wondering if I pull the last pan while I am in there while making other repairs, will I compromise the structure of the car? Possibly make a brace if needed?

I have a Clarke WE6523 130EN 120-Volt Fluxcore/MIG Welder sitting here. I haven't done much welding aside from super simple tack repair on farm gates.
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Old 05-12-2014, 10:47 PM
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From what I can make out,, It don't look bad at all...Did you take these pictures standing on your head.. They look to be all up side down...LOL..
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Old 05-13-2014, 12:18 AM
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Clean it up some more and let's see some more photos, but it really looks like you could save it. And sometimes "Saving it" takes more work than just biting the bullet and replacing something. But I really think this one looks like it would be much easier to save it.

I have to say, on my Rambler I had a similar floor. On the drivers side in front of the drivers seat there was a LOT of holes, basically a strainer. I sand blasted it using a "Spot blaster" which contains all the sand blown so it didn't even make a mess. I cleaned it all up and then brushed epoxy primer out. I laid fiberglass cloth over that covering the whole floor area between the seat and the firewall. I then epoxy primed over that, again simply brushing it. That was two years and 8 months ago and pulled the carpet up just a little while ago to check the brake fluid (under the floor) and it was PERFECT exactly as I finished it. I purposely did it this way as a test. I have all the tools I could need and 35 years experience so cutting the floor out and welding in a new one would be a piece of cake for me, but it was a simple driver and I wanted to see if this could be done within reason so I could pass on info to people without the tools, shop or experience. And it passed with flying colors if you ask me.

Brian
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Old 05-13-2014, 12:32 AM
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throw a geared wire wheel on it and keep using your pick tool to pick at those pits. That will tell you and if it survives you just cleaned the pits up real good with the wirewheel. From the looks of it, it seems like a couple patches will do fine but you never know til you start really getting into those pits and testing them. I see a lot of flash rust and some pitting. Doesn't look bad. I have a coworker who doesn't test the thinness of the metal at all and often he's welding on boogers with no penetration just so the metal accepts the weld. If you don't test the metal that can happen to you. It's very handy in telling you where to end your patch, but some people around me tell me I "over do" it. Anyhow, by testing it I mean if you use something sharp and poke at it hard and it pokes thru or causes dimples rather easily cut it out.

Last edited by tech69; 05-13-2014 at 12:38 AM.
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Old 05-13-2014, 04:10 AM
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Clean it up and plug the holes with fiberglass.....at least then, the fumes wont be getting in
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