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Dome Pistons
Currently i have a stock 1994 SBC 350 block and rotating assm. The pistons a Dish pistons with 4 valve relief cut into them. I think that gives me a compression of 8.75:1.
Since my goal is to get 300hp at the wheels would it be a good idea to switch out the pistons with a set of Dome 0.125 pistons which would bring my compression to somewhere between 10.5 to 11:1. The cost of the new pistons is only $170 and seem like they would provide a good jump in HP. I will be running a set of Vortec heads, and Holly 600cfm carb, and a Comp cam Xtreme Energy 268 cam. (Duration @ 0.050":224° / 230°; Max Lift w/ 1.5RR: .477" / .480") The pistons i want to buy: http://www.ebay.com/itm/STD-125-Dome...21386079550418 |
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Don't buy domed pistons. Just get a pair of Felpro steel-shim head gaskets. That'll get you over 9:1. If you want more, have the machine shop shave 0.030" off each head. That'll get you over 9.5:1. That's plenty for 300 RWHP on pump gas, especially with that cam.
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Going from 9.5:1 to 10.5:1 is worth maybe 4% more power, or maybe 15 HP for you. But at the cost of always having to use premium unleaded plus pour-in bottles of octane booster every tank? Retarding the timing is not a solution. It's just a Band-aid at best.
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With a standard bore, assuming the pistons are .025 in the hole, 64cc heads, .041 gasket, using these pistons with a .125 dome, which are 3.5cc, your c.r. would be approximately 10.69:1.
Without knowing the volume of your current piston dish, you can't even guess what your c.r. is now, I doubt you have valve reliefs unless the dish is very small. With a flat piston, 4 valve reliefs you should be at about 9.55:1, good numbers for a pump gas motor build.
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Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. Midnight Sun Street Rod Association |
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Stock Vortec 350s are supposed to be 9.1:1. The pistons are dished, plus valve reliefs. The tops of the pistons are 0.025" below the deck. To get proper quench you need the felpro steel-shim head gaskets, at 0.015"-thick.
If we do a 350 with flat-tops, using Speed-Pro hypereutectics, these gaskets, the 0.025" deck volume, and true 64 cc heads, that puts you at 10.266:1, and you don't need that. Really, you don't want that, either. So keep the stock pistons, which have a dish volume, including the VRs, of around 10 cc. If they have the perimeter chamfer, then they're more like 13 cc. Adding a 10 cc dish to the combo I just figured, you're at 9.21:1. Mill the heads 0.030" if you want 9.70:1. I would. |
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__________________
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. Midnight Sun Street Rod Association |
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below is a picture of my current pistons.
![]() Since i pulled my motor from 1994 chevy shortwide i looked up the spec for the 5.7L 350 that came with the 94 truck found that it had a compression 8.75:1 and was rated for 190hp and 300ft.lb of tq. Last edited by logan1; 01-10-2012 at 04:15 PM. |
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Looking at those pistons, if you have 64cc heads, an .041 gasket and it looks like maybe 15cc's of dish and reliefs (only a guess), it would put you in that ball park, at around 8.72 using my own calculator. There's also a few cc's to consider in the angle around the circumference.
__________________
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. Midnight Sun Street Rod Association |
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on the bottom of the piston there will be a number. Check it against this site... http://webpages.charter.net/beckracing/slvpg29.htm Great resource for stock specs of factory pistons.
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ok so i made an excel sheet to see how much it would cost to build a sbc 350 that would give me 300hp and the wheels and i'm shocked at the price. I was heading into this think it was going to be a budget build. This so called budget build is gonna cost me a fortune. I wrote down all the numbers and it looks like its going to be way more expensive than i had expected. The expected cost is price of parts off ebay and other internet sites and the actual cost is what i have bought so far.
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3100 to build a performance car is NOT a fortune. There are guys who pay half that for a T56 core and a set of synchro rings runs upwards of 400 bucks, and an overhaul kit (incl the rings) is almost a grand
I like the JTR stuff, aside from the advertisements for V8 jaguars and etc every couple pages. Ive been out of the game for a while on these (my best friend built one about 10yrs ago) but I heard there's a better engine placement than the JTR kit. This may have been for the LS series of engines. I don't know. Good things take time and good deals are out there, just ask questions before you buy. |
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I agree with AutoGear. I shake my head at those who think a budget build is possible for $1,500, they're dreamers unless they have a lot of useable parts on the shelf. It looks like you did some homework, but I wonder which of those parts on the list will be used/new. Headers for $150? You bought heads for a bargain price of $65, so I assume they need a rebuild or refresh. Your allotted $200 for the machine shop, around here, might get the heads and block tanked, no cylinder hone, line hone, truing the decks, etc. What I don't see on your list is shipping for those parts. Where is "T-town" in Oklahoma, and what resources are available locally?
__________________
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. Midnight Sun Street Rod Association |
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