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Old 01-29-2006, 05:16 PM
41' Chevy Master DeLuxe Tudor
 
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Donor car or truck for a 1941 Chevy?

I'm looking for advice about a good donor vehicle to use the "innards" for a 1941 Chevy Sedan. I've heard about F-body subframes (much work involved), S-10 pickups etc... I'm looking for something in which I would be able to utilize the most parts from in order to street rod a 41' chevy. Such as engine, drivetrain, steering column, etc... Of course I am working on a budget however, I want the car to be safe and roadworthy thats for sure. I know someone is out there that has run into the roadblocks doing this sort of thing and I would like to avoid as many as possible. Thanks, TT66'

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Old 01-29-2006, 05:56 PM
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Nove Clip

Years ago I put a 68 Nova SS clip into my 40 Ford PU. I used the Clip , engine, tranny, wheels, and rear end. I could have used the column as well. Paid $100 for the Nova cause the trunk was stuffed bad.
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Old 01-29-2006, 06:45 PM
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They do make bolt in front ends and rear end stuff for 41' Chevys now. I hate the thought of cutting a frame up and splicing in a camaro frontend.
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Old 01-29-2006, 09:27 PM
41' Chevy Master DeLuxe Tudor
 
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Thanks for the good replies. I have been looking at the bolt in and weld in mustang front ends which seem to be very popular now days. A subframe wouldn't be that hard to get but I am leary about chopping the frame and getting that baby to track right after I would get finished. I've seen that done before and it's been years ago and these guys were pro's. I don't want to screw it up. It sure doesn't take long for the money to add up thats why I'm trying to lay out a plan beforehand and go with it.
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Old 01-30-2006, 08:18 AM
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If you have a nice level floor to work with cutting and splicing the frame isn't to big a deal. You do need to have some welding and measuring skills though. Just remember -- measure twice, cut once! If the donor rails are very close to the same width as the recipient, it's not very hard at all. The important thing is to be able to set the frame up on jackstands exactly the way you want it to be when done. If you can take the subframe out and roll it around with the engine and trans in place that's even better! Then you know exactly how the front end is going to sit -- the front sheet metal won't affect it much. If you can't do that, measure from the floor to the bottom of the subframe while it's still in the donor with all the weight on it. then measure again when it's out and the engine and trans are off. Now you know about how far it will go down when everything's installed and can compensate with your jack stands. Get some sidewalk chalk in different colors and mark the floor and chassis with different colors for different measurements. You'll want to mark the wheelbase and where you cut the frame. Use a plumb bob to measure from a point on the chassis and mark that point with chalk also. Make sure you measure the donor subframe first! You don't want to cut to much off the original only to find you're to short from where you need to be, or cut the subframe to short. Just lots of measuring and thinking about what you want to do. I've seen guys jack the original frame up enough to just slide the subframe under it with the wheels in the right position for the desired wheelbase to get an idea of where to cut. If you do that mark it, but pull it out and measure everything to make sure it's properly aligned, use the original marks just as a "close" guide.
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