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Old 09-04-2009, 05:26 PM
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Door alinement..

How do you fix a door.. The top is in tight to the body, and the bottom sticks out about 7/16".. Also the gap at the front of the door looks real good, but almost nothing at the rear.. There is about 1/16" at the top rear of the door.. The front top of the door looks ok.. How do I fix this??

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Old 09-04-2009, 05:36 PM
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What kind of car are we talking about here?
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Old 09-04-2009, 05:52 PM
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Sorry.. 37 Ford Tudor..
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Old 09-04-2009, 07:37 PM
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Do you have a body handbook? They're pretty good with telling you what adjustments will do what with the car.

I am more familiar with GM products, so I can't be a ton of help with the ford product. Is there any adjustability in the hinges? Can you pull the top hinge out and the bottom in to push the bottom in? That's probably too easy, so that probably won't work. Do you have any other adjustability in the doors? My 35 Pontiac has a tensioning rod that goes from the front top of the door to the bottom rear and helps pull the bottom of the door in and up. I don't know if Ford has anything like that though...

Do you have paint on the car or are you doing bodywork on it? If you're still building it, one of the ways to get more gap in the rear is to mark the gap with tape, cut a little more than you want to have left, and weld in a new edge. Grind that down to the gap you want and there ya go.

There's a good writeup on fitting gaps that I came across while I was working on mine a few months ago... http://www.jefflilly.com/Fabrication...fit/index.html He goes pretty in depth and should help with the gaps. As far as the tight top/loose bottom, I can't be of much help there. That's the limit of my experience! I'm curious to hear as well. I replaced the bottom 6" of my doors and re-contoured them so that they would suck in. If you're not doing that, I can't help much!
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Old 09-04-2009, 07:51 PM
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The hinges are screwed on. I have been trying to use a tool to loosen up the screws, but I think I will have to replace them by drilling them out. From that I could pull out the top, and push in the bottom. Now how do I take care of the gap?? I also read about grinding off about 1/8" off the edge of the door down to where it starts to slant in. The belt line looks real good. The door closes well, but you do have to give it some force. When I bought the car the doors and such were thrown inside the car. The body was off the frame. There were no added supports, so the body is kind of screwed up as well.. There is no paint on the car
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Old 09-04-2009, 07:56 PM
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Might be a matter of shimming the body mount to frame at the door post area if you have the same problem on both sides of the car.

Any idea if the doors you have are original to the body??
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Old 09-04-2009, 08:16 PM
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Did you read that website about grinding the doors for the gap? I would do it that way- after you make sure that it's solidly where you want the door. Make sure the beltline is where you want it and that everything else is how it should be before doing the rear gap.

What are you trying to use to get the hinge screws out? If it's a phillips screw that you can't get enough grip on to turn the screw, I like to use a pair of vise-grips clamped on the screwdriver. Then I can lean into the screwdriver to keep it from popping out, and the vise grips to get some turning torque.
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Old 09-04-2009, 08:19 PM
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Also, after looking at the picture again, it looks like the gap is wide at the bottom rear of the door and tight at the top? Or is that a optical illusion?
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Old 09-04-2009, 11:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
Might be a matter of shimming the body mount to frame at the door post area if you have the same problem on both sides of the car.

Any idea if the doors you have are original to the body??
I'm with Eric sounds like the body may need some shims, Just be sure to place them in the right location. To get things back in line. JMO. Cole
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Old 09-05-2009, 04:38 AM
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I'll take some better pictures of this door today. The gap at the bottom that you see is the door sticking out. I have been trying the old fashioned way of putting a chunk of wood between the door top and the body opening. Then slam the door shut.. Could be that the door had been bent over from years of people walking on it. The other side isn't as bad. As far as the shims go.. I have a 3/8" nut there, and it won't push the body up. I have even put the floor jack under that spot and cranked down on the body bolts on either side. I am not sure but could this have also happened because a new floor was put in while the body was off the car. When I bought it a new floor was in it. It was welded over the old floor.. If you look from underneath you can still see most of the old floor..
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Old 09-05-2009, 10:02 PM
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My limited understanding of shimming and adjusting the doors is that if the door is hanging at an angle, then it's a shim here or there. If the door gap is consistently tight all the way up and down the gap, I'd say it's something else besides shims. You can check the hinges for spacers to see if there's some in there that are pushing the door back.. But if the gap at the front is good and you don't want to pull the door forward, i would grind the rear. There are probably bodymen out there that know better than me tho so hopefully they'll chime in..
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Old 09-06-2009, 08:37 AM
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door twisting

In the 70's the guys that adjusted the doors on mustang II and pintos in the factory used to brace their knee on the inside and grab and pull and twist the door when it lined up with the hinge side and not on the latch side.
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Old 09-06-2009, 08:43 AM
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I guess that is the other option, can you see if the panel's been flattened ie. lost its compound curve? If, like you said, people have been walking on it or whatever, it may have just flattened out the curve and it needs to be recontoured. That would make it appear longer than it should be. So I would check the edge of the skin and see if it is pushed past the edge of the door frame. If so, it needs to be pushed back out in the center...
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Old 09-06-2009, 10:36 AM
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The edge seems ok on the hinge side. I have been using the 2x4 in the upper door frame, and pushing on the bottom edge of the front of the door.. The gap is getting a little better.. The hinge screws WILL NOT MOVE!!! i sprayed juice on the back nuts, and I have a impact tool that has a screwdriver bit in it. Put it in the slot and whack the handle with a 3lb sledge. No movement at all.. The passengers side door seems just fine as far as gaps go. Now though when I close the door the gap is about 1/16" in the center, and a little over 1/8" at the top, and still well over 1/4" at the bottom.. Getting stranger, and stranger every time I work on it..
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Old 09-06-2009, 10:52 AM
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Stop with the 2x4!!!!!!!!!! ---your just twisting the hinge.
Probably created too much damage now, to do it properly by shimming the cowl
Oh well.
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