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door jam prep for epoxy
the door jams have tight places that are really hard to get to and will not get all the paint off to bare metal before applying epoxy. anyone got suggestions or tips on how to get the door jams ready for epoxy?
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If it still only has the factory finish, and you don't have any rust, then just scuff them up with a scutchbright pad and go for it.
IF it's not the OG paint, and or, you have rust, then you're best to remove the door, and strip it down to metal.......A spot blaster would be good. |
its original paint but there is chips in it, just like a green scothbrite pad? do you need to use water with it or dry? Thanks alot!
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Try to get at the chip with some 400 to feather it out smooth, then hit the rest with a grey scutchbright pad. (dry or wet) Though I like scuffing wet with soap water.......cleans and scuffs at the same time :mwink:
After cleaning it with wax/grease cleaner spray one wet coat of sealer (epoxy sealer is fine) followed by your paint after flash time. Don't use the green scutchbirght bads.....they are too harsh |
ok sounds good..
the rest of my car is bare metal, going to spray it with epoxy, how many coats do i need? i will not be painting it right now, just be in primer for a year probaly im going to epoxy over bare metal, use body filler for low spots, then some other kind of primer overtop if that. |
One wet coat could be good enough but I would go with 2 wet coats.
You can do your body work over the epoxy just scuff it. Sence you do have bodywork it's best to go with a high build primer. 2 to 3 coats of that. Block sand it all smooth contenue with a sealer or stright paint. |
You can get the pads at Harbor in the sanding area. A box is like $5.00, MUCH cheaper than the parts store's. If they don't have the Gray one's, the Reds are OK for use before the epoxy.
Pick up a spray bottle for the water too, It's alot easier than a bucket. |
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