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Old 07-25-2007, 11:09 AM
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door popers which wire needs to be hot?

i bought a shaved door handle kit. it all looks really easy to do wiring and all except one thing...

it doesnt tell me which wire needs to be hot all the time. can someone help me out??? does it need to be the red wire coming off of the keyless entry or the hook to positive coming from the doors???



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Old 07-25-2007, 12:02 PM
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Sorry, needed to edit. I totally mis-understood the question.

Last edited by americanLT1; 07-25-2007 at 12:21 PM.
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Old 07-25-2007, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by americanLT1
If both wires are the same color it should'nt make any difference witch one you ground.

well im thinking the way it should hook up is the red wire off the keyless entry should go directly to the battery and the red wire that says hook to positive should go to the fuse box on a connection that is hot with the ignition on.
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Old 07-25-2007, 04:15 PM
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Doc here,

All of them must be fused and hot..

Otherwise, how are you going to turn the switch on if your locked outside the car?


The only one I see may need to be switched is the trunk unit.



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Old 07-25-2007, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docvette
Doc here,

All of them must be fused and hot..

Otherwise, how are you going to turn the switch on if your locked outside the car?


The only one I see may need to be switched is the trunk unit.



Doc

thanks doc! could i run the wires directly to the battery??? or would it be best to the fuse box???
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Old 07-25-2007, 08:15 PM
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Doc here,

To do a Proper , CLEAN, NEAT, job of it...

Go to the parts store and get a single terminal insulated binding post..Mount this where you CAN access it (should the battery ever go dead..and the hood needs power to pop it..)

Then Get PROPER fuse links and install them to your power leads to the terminal, and a SINGLE lead to the battery positive..



It's good, clean and gives you a way to pop a door in a dead battery situation using a jumper cable..



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Old 07-30-2007, 04:43 PM
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not working!!!

ok im stumped .

i just wired up everything for the poppers. i didnt install the poppers in the doors yet i just hooked up the wires. to check and so if i did it right i connected the poppers and nothing happened !!! i heard the relays and or the wireless receiver clicking. but nothing happened. i double and triple checked my connections all the fuses everything! still nothing. what could it be??? bad relay??? im clueless.
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Old 07-30-2007, 08:53 PM
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Doc here,

Be sure your doors are DEAD grounded..the most common problem.

IF needed add grounding straps to the doors.


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Old 07-30-2007, 09:51 PM
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re: door popers which wire needs to be hot?

I would agree with docvette - make sure you have the solenoid grounded to the chassis some way. If your getting a click out of the relays and nothing at the solenoid or in the thermal cut-offs (they look like fuses in the lines to the solenoid) then it is likely a ground problem at the solenoid. If you didn't install them in the doors then just run a wire from the ground of the solenoid to the negative battery terminal, or a good chassis ground and give it a shot.
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Old 07-31-2007, 02:38 PM
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ok i only installed the passenger popper and its working but...

i think i need stronger solenoids. because i press the button it wants to open but doesnt. since i have the door panels off (going to custom make some) i reach my hand in there and help press the lever to open the door. is it just a matter of alignment??? ive been messing with the alignment for the past hour or so. or do i need stronger solenoids??? right now i have 35lb solenoids.
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Old 07-31-2007, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elcaminodragster
ok i only installed the passenger popper and its working but...

i think i need stronger solenoids. because i press the button it wants to open but doesnt. since i have the door panels off (going to custom make some) i reach my hand in there and help press the lever to open the door. is it just a matter of alignment??? ive been messing with the alignment for the past hour or so. or do i need stronger solenoids??? right now i have 35lb solenoids.

Doc here,

you must be out of alignment or have weak grounds..

you don't use 35 Lbs of hand force to open it do you? I'd suspect more like 3 Lbs..


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Old 07-31-2007, 06:31 PM
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re: door popers which wire needs to be hot?

I am using 35 lb. solenoids without a problem. You might need to put a little "pre-load" on the cable. The solenoids don't engage that far (maybe 3/4" of pull). I had to actually put a slight pull on my mechanism (not enough to get close to the actual latch releasing of course) but the cables from the solenoids are definately tight with no slack.
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Old 07-31-2007, 09:57 PM
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hey doc,

my doors were fairly stiff opening it. but i see what your saying.


i got it working good i just need to hit the button twice. im most positive that its just alignment now after messing with it for a few more minuets.
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Old 07-31-2007, 10:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cefolar
I am using 35 lb. solenoids without a problem. You might need to put a little "pre-load" on the cable. The solenoids don't engage that far (maybe 3/4" of pull). I had to actually put a slight pull on my mechanism (not enough to get close to the actual latch releasing of course) but the cables from the solenoids are definately tight with no slack.

what do you mean pre load??? they work perfect no prob at all if i slightly push on the door and then pull it open.
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Old 07-31-2007, 11:47 PM
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If you have to push on the door to make it work properly, then the doorseal pressure is making the latch hard to disengage or there are other issues such as latch/striker misalignment, sagging door hinges or lack of lubrication.
Try giving the cable a bit of slack, not preload. The solenoid plunger likes to get moving a bit before it moves it's load. (it's a momentum thing.)
The stock type latches are usually harder to disengage than the aftermarket ones.

I usually adjust the cable with the plunger depressed into the solenoid body. Push the plunger down till it bottoms, then while holding it down, adjust the cable so that the latch disengages.

That usually does it, although I have had to adjust the length of the lever arm to take full advantage of the stroke length of the plunger. In other words, the swing of the lever on the latch at the cable attachment point should match the stroke length of the piunger.

I've installed at least 30 sets of plunger type, both 35# and 75# as well as a bunch of the old cal-custom and screwmotor type and always had better luck with a slightly loose cable.

Try greasing your latch and striker also..I have found that the #1 cause of sluggish latch operation is lack of grease.

Hope this helps,
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Last edited by powerrodsmike; 08-01-2007 at 08:07 AM.
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