[70chevy]

When i install the autoloc shaved door kit how does this operate from the inside. I Assume with a button the same as from the exterior but i am totally new to shaved kits and many other things but i am trying my best.

[malc]

You use the regular interior door release.
The remote is only used to enter the car.

[70chevy]

Thanks so much I didnt want to make my fibeglass mold and then have this huge spot sticking out for the door handle that no longer exsited!! Now I can make my ipanels with a little less fear!

[malc]

BTW you are talking about solenoids to open the door?
Door poppers are a sprung device that pushes the door open after the solenoid has released the doorlock.
I took my poppers out, they were weak and squeaked.
On my Camaro the weather strip under pressure moves the door out.
Need door hinges in good shape.

[70chevy]

Yes i do mean solenoids. I am still new, I know the terminology but being a teen that is what all my friends know it as so I get lost, and use my "teen" languages sometimes. So the poppers are not worth the extra 30 bucks?

[malc]

I bought my door kit through Summit and the poppers were included. I would install the solenoids etc. get that working
and decide then if you need something to move the door.
What car is it and how big are the doors?
My 15pound solenoids just about do it, when I get round to it I will put in 30pound solenoids.
Always have a spare solenoid, they can burn up sometimes,
I´ve had only one in four years go.
If your battery goes flat or you leave the remote in the car you need another way in.
I keep a hatch key with my house keys and can go in through the rear hatch.
I learned that when I locked myself out of the car, but soon found some wire off a fence and opened the door through the window.
I was seen doing it and nobody "Blew the whistle" on me.
If I was going to do it again I would like a remote to lower the windows,that would be cool walking up to the car and the window lowering,but my car is tested here every year and I have to show a means of opening the door.I might do the window
remote as an extra way in.

[70chevy]

It is a 1970 Chevrolet C10 so the doors way a good bit. Autoloc told me i should go with the 50 pound kit but it also is a higher profit for their company. You think 35 would work or just do ok? I would prefer to spend a little more in this area and get good to Great results. The entire kit with a remote and alarm is 290 on Ebay with manafactures warranty. Your thoughts...?

I forgot to mention i decided to stick with manual windows so that option is out. I was planning on putting a hidden emergency button or release cable. I am a little concerned on the Theft thing but I have never heard of a car theft from any of my friends just a few systems stolen. I figure on stuff like that if they want it bad enough they will smash the glass and go. No stopping a theif if they want it

[malc]

As long as the doors are´nt sagging and the latch is fine the 35
pounders will do the job.

[Schroeder351M]

hey i just got done reading through your messages and here in the near future i was thinking of doing the whole shaved doors myself. I have a 78 thunderbird, the doors are big and heavy but they open and close very easy. what would u recommend using the 35's also?

[JhnBrackett]

If you're latches are nice and clean, then 35s should be fine for anyone. Make sure you try and position them so they pull down and not outwards. I just installed a kit w/ 15lbs in my friends 200sx and they would work fine. I would recommend getting door poppers though. They will make up for smaller solenoids. Instead of the solenoid opening the latch and having to force the door out. The popper will push the door out once the latch has started opening. I'm looking at local hardware stores to see if any carry springs that I could possibly use to make cheaper versions.

Oh, and save yourself some money. Get one of the 70-100 kits on ebay. They will work jsut as well. If you have an alarm might take some more wiring. Otherwise you should do fine w/ the other kits.