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Old 01-05-2009, 06:32 PM
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door skin advice

I put a door skin on my 55 chevy truck drivers door. Please check out this picture and explanation of what i done, and any advice is appreciated.
http://www.coopscorner.com/misc/doorskin-advice.htm

Thanks..
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Old 01-05-2009, 07:36 PM
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From what I can see {me no Xpert either} seems that if the Repair panel was flat you will need to cut a relief on the part that wraps around the soor to the inside to bend the metal , OR shrink it.

If I am thinking correctly your curve problem is trying to get it from the top to bottom?

Not side to side .

RIGHT?


Well maybe someone with more /better Experience will pick up on this.

A better Picture would help too.



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Old 01-05-2009, 11:21 PM
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Quote:
If I am thinking correctly your curve problem is trying to get it from the top to bottom?
Yup me too.

Once you get that lip rolled (gently) under to form that nice factory seam, it'll take shape nicely. A 'heel' dolly set flat on the outer panel and a good body hammer to massage (key word-massage, don't be a gorilla) that lip all the way around, it will be good. Don't hammer it to death.

It's inevitable you'll have a little skim coat of filler afterwards, don't sweat it.
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Old 01-06-2009, 12:05 AM
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another thing that i have used as a dolly on skins is if you get one of those 6 inch thick/heavy rubber wet sanding blocks when your starting to get the lip over it tends not to mar up the front as much. you end up using metal dollys too. good luck
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Old 01-06-2009, 04:06 PM
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I didn't explained what I had done very well, sorry about that . Maybe these additional pictures will help explain the extra work i created for myself. I have the skin bent, i just used the incorrect method, if you can call what i done a method. My method put 2 slight bends instead of an easy curve. I hope these pictures help clear it up what i need to do. I was thinking if i bend the ends around, maybe it will hold it and allow me to use a body hammer to tap the bends back down. Would a hammer be best to use, or maybe a block of wood to tap on?...thanks again for the help...........
http://www.coopscorner.com/misc/doorskin-advice.htm
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Old 01-06-2009, 05:06 PM
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OKY Dokey.

I see it now.

Remember Not a X pert here .

I think right now @ this point {5 minuets into the problem} .

I would try to use say a good straight 2X4 that would fit inside the inside .

Then another on the out side on a bench trying to make a temporary break so that you can curve the metal long ways uniformly.

Here is how I am seeing in my twisted little brain box.

A wooden bench.

A 2 X 4 that is just the right size to fit inside the metal.

Its not welded in yet right?

2 more pieces of 2 X 4 6" long all screwed to the bench with a space for the metal {that is on the edge} to fit in between.

Then a longer 2 x 4 that you can clamp either over the edge {to make a Downward bend} & or further back to make a {Upward bend}.

This sandwich action will/should give you a uniform bend.

What you think?

You could make a template off the good door to get the right curves.




R
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Old 01-06-2009, 07:10 PM
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I hate to admit it, but it is welded across the top at the seam. I am hoping there is a way to work the crease down with hammer. Maybe i can lay a piece of wood across the crease and beat it back down with a hammer? The outside edges of the inner door panel has the curve radius on it. In theory i should have bent the outer skin around to match the inner, but boy oh boy i missed that one...I am open for sugesstions, but taking the skin back off is probably not an option. Thanks.....
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Old 01-07-2009, 05:39 AM
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Fold the flange over and test fit the door on the truck before going any further, adjust the fit if needed and modify the edges if needed but definately verify the fit before finally welding the flange. The crease you created and the distortion along the weld line can be worked out some with dolly and hammer and or a spoon, but if there's limited access on the inside for backing the area with a dolly then you'll probably need some help and a bar or dolly on a stick to get pressure where it's needed to hammer some of that distortion out.

Here's the way I do that repair, I see you replaced some of the inner panel and that should have been done and then testfit the door to the truck, then cleanup work done on that inner and epoxy primer applied inside and out. Then the outer panel fitted to the door, clamped and tack welded in place along the splice. then fold the flange and weld that area then come back to the splice area and finish welding with tacks until welded solid hammering and dollying as you go, finish grind, test fit again to verify contour, tune if needed, remove and prime.
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Old 01-08-2009, 04:11 AM
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Thanks for all the help with this. I have limited access to the inside of the door, so the dolly on a stick will have to be the way to go. I appreciate the advice from everyone....
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