[49dream]

I have two electrical questions. 1st: I am putting door switches to control lights that I have installed in each one of my doors panels (49 pickup) The switches has 3 wire connectors on back. Where can I find a diagram on how to hitch these wires up so they will turn both lights on when you open either door.

Second question is on my brake switch that controls the brake lights. I am putting a ezwire wiring kit in the truck. The brake switch has a orange and white wire that is vertical. I know this is my power and brake switch per the ezwire directions. There is all so 2 wires the are sticking straight out of the back of the switch.
These 2 wires I have not idea what they do.

any help would be appreciated.

PS if any words are miss spelled I am sorry The spell checker does not work with my blockers in place

[willys36@aol.com]

The light problem depends on the type of light you are using. Some have an all the time hot lead going to the light and a ground lead going from the light to grounding switches at all the doors. Other lights are grounded at the light and require a hot signal from a door switch that has a hot lead going to it. Determine what type of light you have and then get the proper switches to service it. Use a multi-meter to test what leads are connected and disconnected when the switches are actuated and connect accordingly.

It sounds like you have a GM brake light switch. Those extra wires are for cruise control kill when you step on the brakes so if you don't have factory cruise, ignore them.

[horvath]

I put door switches in my 54 Chevy pickup ... and since my (new) dome light has a constant ground, i needed to use a relay to make the ground-connection from the door switches turn on the positive feed -- NOT a difficult thing to do!

You can check it all out Here ... wiring diagram and all.

Alan
54 Chevy Pickup

[willys36@aol.com]

This is the familiar grounding switch. The tube in the right end accepts a bullet wire connector and that part of the switch hits the threaded part which is screwed to the door jamb, grounding it. Only works on a steel car. Advantage is that is smaller and less conspicuous than the switch below.


This switch has two bullet plugs in the back and is insulated from the body. It can be used as a grounding switch on a 'glas body or as a hot switch on any car. Bring a full time hot wire to one terminal and a lead wire to a grounded dome light in the other terminal. This eliminates the need for the relay like Horvath used in his installation.


Both switches are available at any parts store.

[49dream]

Willy thank you for the imformation. I am not using my door switch for a dome light. I am using them on door side lights. I can get them to work individually but I am trying to get them to work like a 3 way switch in your house. I wanted both lights on the doors to go on when only one door is open. When I got the truck the switches was all ready installed but when I started to replace all the wires I seen where one of the switches was shorted out. I replaced that one but was not sure how the wiring was all hook up. There was bare wires every where so I just pulled all the wiring out and started over. I had a sketch of the wiring but lost it. As far as the lights there is one wire grounded to the door and one wire leading to the switch.
Any way wanted to say thanks.

[willys36@aol.com]

The principle is the same for dome light or door light. Both door lights are grounded so use the bottom switch shown above. Run a hot wire to each of the switches (same circuit, just splice two leads together with the hot wire and run each to a different switch) then a wire from the other side of each switch to each door light (basically hook both lights and both switches together into one common circuit). That way either switch will actuate both lights.