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Old 12-05-2012, 06:02 AM
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double d shaft

I just put in my new steering column on my 30 model a. The column mounts to the floor. The end of the column, or the double D shaft, goes through the floor and is real close to the inside of the frame rail. I would say about 3/8". It turns freely now but if I put a coupling or a u joint on it it will scrape the frame. Can i just weld on a 6" piece of double D to the existing double D, or is that really unsafe? Any suggestions?
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:25 AM
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steering shaft

i can weld but in your case i'd make sure i'd got a REAL welder to do it. but i don't see any problems if its done right..
don't they make a longer shaft somewhere...???
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Old 12-05-2012, 07:40 AM
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What length do you need?
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:15 AM
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The shaft is inside the column, I am worried about taking it apart and have thousands of parts. The column is tilting, with a key, turn signals, hazard etc. Have you ever disassembled one?
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:03 AM
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How is the rest of the steering going to hook up to the steering box? Is it a direct shot to the box? Probably not, you may need a swivel or something else to make the final connections. I would hesitate to do any welding until you have all this figured out. You might have to squeeze another 1/4 inch or so of clearance and use a heim joint in there somewhere. Here's some photos and info from this site: Vega steering in a model a ford
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:17 AM
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my issue is at the end of the column not the vega bos. I have to get the d shaft down past the frame rail so that i can attach a u joint or something to connect a span to the vega box.
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:58 AM
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welding shaft...

YES,you can extend the shaft,grind both pieces of shaft,(original plus piece you are welding) into a V shape after grinding,hold pieces together,your V gap should be at least 1/4 to 3/8 inch,weld it GOOD,fill that gap,grind smooth,then using a piece of thin wall tubing,drill holes in tubing,put tubing equidistant from joint,,weld thru holes into shaft,then weld both ends of tube to shaft...it will be bulletproof.
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Old 12-05-2012, 10:04 AM
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thanks Bob
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Old 12-05-2012, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHNSHENOUDA View Post
The shaft is inside the column, I am worried about taking it apart and have thousands of parts. The column is tilting, with a key, turn signals, hazard etc. Have you ever disassembled one?
If its a GM or GM clone, the column disassembles and the shaft is removed through the TOP. Several specialty tools will be required to do it.
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Old 12-05-2012, 04:52 PM
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Do you have enough outside the column to shorten the shaft to gain clearance for a u-joint which you may need anyway?
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Old 12-06-2012, 05:21 AM
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I think the best thing to do is buy a 3/4 double d shaft. I think a solid 3/4 shaft will slide inside the 1" shaft nub that sticks out of the bottom of the column about 2". Once she is inside I can weld the "rim" of the two pieces together. At that point I imagine she should be like a rock.
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:18 AM
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unless your a very good welder i would have a problem with you welding anything on your steering.
you'd be a lot better off and safer notching the frame to get your clearance or moving your column over half an inch to allow for a u-joint.
extending the dd shaft 6 inches out from the support bearing in the end of you column adds a lot of stress to the shaft, especially when you hit a pot hole.
i would not recommend welding an extension on the dd shaft.
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:34 AM
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What about notching the Frame?
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Old 12-09-2012, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHNSHENOUDA View Post
I think the best thing to do is buy a 3/4 double d shaft. I think a solid 3/4 shaft will slide inside the 1" shaft nub that sticks out of the bottom of the column about 2". Once she is inside I can weld the "rim" of the two pieces together. At that point I imagine she should be like a rock.
Hey JOHNSHENOUDA. Welding on streering or braking components is always a little sketchy. (I also had to weld the steering shaft on my SBC celica). If you must do it the way you descibed is deffinatly the best way. Being that your going to slip it inside a piece of 1" and put a fillet weld on either side makes me feal better about it. Its a different story if you were going to bevel it and do butt joint. A but joint probobaly wouldnt let go but the way you purposed IS the best way. Just make sure your machine has enough jam.

Good luck
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Old 12-10-2012, 05:54 AM
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Prostcelica,

Thanks for reassuring me. I figure at the end of the day it will actually be way stronger since it will basically become a solid rod as opposed to hollow. The weld will basically just stop the smaller rod from sliding out. Seems to me that 3/4 inside of 1" with fillet welds must be stronger than those wimpy screws that go through the u-joints. Thanks again.
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