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Old 04-15-2003, 11:22 AM
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Post Double flare brake line problems

I am having trouble using a double flare tool to do the brake lines on my 33 Plymouth. I have done a fair amount of 37 degree tubing (aircraft quality) work with flaring and bending so I am not a complete novice at this but just about ever double flare turns out to be off center or slightly bent. The end is first filed flat, outside edges slightly filed smooth, inside diameter of the tube is chamfered and then I hit the end to be flared with some 240 sandpaper just to smooth everything out.

Should I look for a new flaring tool set or am I doing something wrong? The one I now have is the second one of the same manufacturer but I am still getting the same poor results. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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Old 04-15-2003, 01:50 PM
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I have really good luck so there is something in your procedure that is messing you up. For example, when I first started double flaring, I left off the reaming step and kept getting bad flares. Maybe you are doing too much end prep. As I recall the directions are to cut, ream w/ the included reamer to remove the squished part of the end, then do the two step flare. Eliminate your filing and sanding steps and see what happens. Also, take your time in setting the clamp depth before flaring and also take your time centering the two flaring tools. If things are prepped and aligned properly, it is surprising how easily the flare is formed. I use that as my guide to whether I will get a good flare - if it is going smoothly = good flare - if I need to really crank on the handle, I know the flare will be bad.

Also, a LITTLE oil lube helps.

[ April 15, 2003: Message edited by: willys36@aol.com ]</p>
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Old 04-15-2003, 02:59 PM
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You will have better results with seamless tubing as well, you buy it in rolls instead of straight lengths. Another little trick I use is don't form the flare completely, leave it in the shape of a pill and use the flare nut to finish form it when it is installed. I get nice flares every time when I use the tool in my lathe since the alignment is perfect, don't try to create the flare flat with the tool...just "bulb" the end and then use the taper to create the flare.

One last thing...the cheap flare tools have the taper tip free rotating, the expensive ones have a taper tip that rotates with the screw and it has three flats on the taper portion so the flare is formed by swageing instead of being pressed into shape.

Good luck.
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Old 04-15-2003, 04:48 PM
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I had the same problems when I first started out. A couple of things helped me early on. One, my kit's instructions say stick the flared end past the tool the width of the collar on the first step tool. I started doing this religously (Willys says carefully). Two, set a deburring tool up in the drill press to clean up the hole so the pilot will go in smoothly and it the center. Third, install the tube vice in a bench vice so both hands are free. Fourth, use both hands to turn the handle and watch to make sure the first step tool is going down evenly. If resistance starts to build, back off slightly and continue. Fifth, take the collar of the tool all the way flush with the tube vice. If it is slightly ****ed, this will true up the fist step flare face (this is contrary to what 4 Jaw does, but he is a master machinist type and works with much more precise skills than us BYMs) Last, I use the slow turn and back off technique with the final step tool.

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Old 04-15-2003, 05:54 PM
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Some good advice here. I just wanted to add that I had real troubles with some Stainlees steel lines that I had to rework. Man, is that stuff tough to flare. Even with a good flare kit that I ran out and bought.
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Old 04-16-2003, 06:47 AM
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Does stailness need double flare? I seem to recall magazines saying it could be safely single flared. OOPS I'm sorry - I relied on magazines for info. You can ***** slap me for that if you like.
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Old 04-16-2003, 10:11 AM
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Thanks to everyone for the good advice. I just tracked down the local Snap-on guy and will get one of his double flare tool kits tonight. So with a quality tool and the suggestions I should have no problems. I will let all know how it goes. I am putting new brake lines on my 33 Plymouth Cabriolet.

Thanks again, Highway
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Old 04-16-2003, 02:01 PM
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I used a cheap AutoZone flare tool to try and put a double flare on a cut line in my 63 Rambler. They sure don't make tubing the way they used to! Ate the end of the tool up. When I took the line completely out after the botched atempt, I noticed that the old stuff was substantially heavier than the replacement. So be carefull if trying to flare old lines! It was as tough as stainless, but was plain steel.
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Old 10-22-2008, 12:47 AM
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oil or petroleum products on brake fluid components

I am new to this site but stumbled on to a brake flaring issue and heard some one say to use some kind of oil on the line when flaring. All i have to say is this is a very bad idea because you risk contaminating you're entire system i would advise using brake fluid. If you dont eventually you will be replacing everything with rubber in it because it will swell ( unless youre system uses linseed oil like an older bently)!!!!!!!!!!
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