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Old 02-10-2004, 12:40 AM
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Drag Suspension Questions

Hi I have a 79 Nova thats putting down some serious power. However I have neglected the suspension So far I can cut a 1.6 60 foot on stock suspension with BFG drag radials (275/60/15) and a stock posi. Im talkin...multileaf springs in back with air shocks, no traction bars, no air bags, no frame connectors. I have stock coils and shocks up front also. I need a good drag setup. A guy I know told me no need for traction bars just ditch the Airshocks and run airbags. He also told me to put some 4cyl coils up front and drain some or all of the fluid out of the front shocks to make them like 90/10's. Then tac weld the hole. On the other hand I have seen guys run lakewood slapper bars, Lift bars, slide-a-links. Whats the best? Something reasonably priced This is a Street/Strip car. Weekend warrior, take to the track once in awhile. Mostly 2 am drags down a deserted service road. And only driven on nice days. Not a daily beater. We are talking 10 sec material here just to give you an idea of its power output.
So lets hear your suggestions on ideal Drag suspension setup from what shocks to run in the front and back. Cover all aspects etc.

/talk /discuss

Thanks

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Old 02-10-2004, 12:47 AM
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Re: Drag Suspension Questions

Quote:
Originally posted by HoosierDaddy
Hi I have a 79 Nova thats putting down some serious power. However I have neglected the suspension So far I can cut a 1.6 60 foot on stock suspension with BFG drag radials (275/60/15) and a stock posi. Im talkin...multileaf springs in back with air shocks, no traction bars, no air bags, no frame connectors. I have stock coils and shocks up front also. I need a good drag setup. A guy I know told me no need for traction bars just ditch the Airshocks and run airbags. He also told me to put some 4cyl coils up front and drain some or all of the fluid out of the front shocks to make them like 90/10's. Then tac weld the hole. On the other hand I have seen guys run lakewood slapper bars, Lift bars, slide-a-links. Whats the best? Something reasonably priced This is a Street/Strip car. Weekend warrior, take to the track once in awhile. Mostly 2 am drags down a deserted service road. And only driven on nice days. Not a daily beater. We are talking 10 sec material here just to give you an idea of its power output.
So lets hear your suggestions on ideal Drag suspension setup from what shocks to run in the front and back. Cover all aspects etc.

/talk /discuss

Thanks
i'd love to pull a 1.6 60, and since i've never done it, i'm of no help
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Old 02-12-2004, 01:52 AM
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Bump

Come'on guys jump in here!!!
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Old 02-12-2004, 03:34 AM
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Well, the advice from the "guy I know" isn't going to help all that much, but it probably wouldn't hurt, either. And, of course, everyone's going to tell you that you'll eventually end up with a 4link, and they might be right. (Although, it would appear, the leaf spring setup is doing an amazingly good job.) But, before you do any of that, you should remove the front anti-sway bar and install, at the rear, the "heaviest" (highest torsional spring constant) anti-sway bar you can find. You could even use a tip I saw on the "Grass Roots" message board and weld the center section from a second bar on to the first. Sounds hoakey, but I guess it would work. A better path to a really stiff rear bar is to use a torsion bar from a supplier for sprint cars. This is commonly done for anti-sway bars for oval track cars. WARNING: IF DRIVEN ON THE STREET, THIS WILL RESULT IN A CAR THAT IS VERY LOOSE. BE CAREFUL!!!

Why? Well, as you know very well, the driveshaft torque tends to unload the right rear on launch. But, for every torque (or force), there's an equal and opposite reaction. That reaction torque is seen back at the engine/transmission mounts. From there, it is distributed to the front and rear suspensions in proportion to their relative roll stiffness. If all the roll stiffness was at the rear, that reaction torque would head back there and completely cancel out the tendency to unload the right rear. Unfortunately, you'll always have some stiffness at the front. But, by minimizing the front and maximizing the rear, you'll get more equal loading on the rear tires and maximize their traction performance.

I've had second thoughts on this post. You said you were going to drive it on the street and I don't want you to get hurt, so perhaps you'd better not follow these suggestions. I'll go ahead and post this for the benefit of those with "strip only" cars, but, as for yourself, I'd rather you stay healthy.
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Old 02-12-2004, 04:17 AM
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Hey HoosierDaddy< (nice member name!), We put a set of C.E. slide-A-links under a S-10 with drag radials. It hooks up great!! What an improvement!! I know that they are expensive but they flat out work!! C.E. guarantee's 1/2 of a tenth off 60' times!! Three things that I would do to start with are, get a set of slide-a-links, split the lines to your air shocks so that you can play around with the pressures independently, and add frame connectors before you start twisting the chassis so bad that your doors won't line up!!!! If you have the H.P. to run 10's, at some point, you will probably want to back-half the car and add a 4-link, coil-overs, narrowed rearend, etc.. What you do on the frontend will directly effect cornering and handling!! You could go with 6 cyl. springs, 90/10 shocks (cheaper to use a worn-out set of shocks) and remove the suspension bumpers so that the front end will lift more before trying to pick up the wheels. But, don't get in any road-races!!!!
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Old 02-12-2004, 11:51 AM
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I helped my brother install Lift Bars on his 64 Chevy II. We also added frame connectors and multi leafs at the same time. The car hooks very good now, but it has never been on the track so I can not give you any times. I think the lift bars or the slide links are your best bet for sure. You should also not overlook the advantages of a stiff body via a roll cage. Even a simple 6 point roll bar will help, but an 8 point will work much better.

Chris
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Old 02-13-2004, 02:39 AM
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I knew there would be some good reponses sooner or later

Well I have a guy up the road with slide a links on a 70 Nova. Showtime69's dad from the board actually. Too bad he has hard radials on because if he had some real tires id be able to see how those things really work if it could hook. I have felt a launch from Lift bars. It picks the back up and goes alot more than how my car just squats but I was able to cut the same if not better 60 foot already with my car as it sits. Lift bars just seemed to make the car more even and stable on launch. Another friend of mine had regular style lackwoods on an s10. Daily driver/street car and he was doing 1.5x 60 foots on that and it was alot less powerful that my car. So It's still pretty much up in the air but Frame connecters are definately needed the car is getting some light cracks on the back of the body already

And yes I dont want to go too wild because I do drive on the street.

more replys welcome
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Old 02-13-2004, 06:35 AM
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If you are getting cracks you NEED a cage. Connectors will not be enough to keep from ruining your car.

Chris
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Old 02-13-2004, 09:08 PM
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well I wanted a cage at one time but that was one time. I wanted to make it appear more stock and muster any sense of sleeperness I could. Say I do get a cage, what cage is approved for the track. What brands do you recomend and will a 6 pt be enough for mid 10's in the 1/4 mile? I dont want to have to cut into the dash. I really dont even want to run that fast at the track though. So thats why I was also leaning towards not getting one.
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Old 02-13-2004, 09:17 PM
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If you go with a 8 point roll bar, you can avoid cutting the dash and it will still be pretty stiff. Any name brand cage will pass inspection since they are all built by the book. Of course you have to install it the correct way to make it legal as well. Running under 10.99 mandates a cage I believe, but some tracks are not that picky. I would check the NHRA rule book.

Chris
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Old 02-15-2004, 03:34 AM
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thanks for the help
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Old 02-16-2004, 12:26 PM
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Other things to consider for a better 60 foot time is moving weight, such as the battery to the trunk. A higher stall converter, if yours isn't that high already. And the easiest thing IMO would be to run a slick or a street legal slick like an MT et street. Also, I think the only difference between a 6 point roll BAR and 8 point roll bar is the two short bars that go from the hoop behind the seat down to the subframe connectors, which is a big deal for a uni-body car. and the 90/10s will help a lot and only cost like 35 a piece.
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Old 02-26-2004, 03:15 AM
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The battery is already in the trunk and I have a 4000 stall in the car already. I was cutting the same 60 foots on BFG Drag radials as I was Mickey thompson ET drags. I know I could have done better on the 60 with the ET drags but the car wasnt setup like it should have been so I didnt get a chance to see the great advantages off all out slicks. Soon enough though!
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