[Bad 57]

I recently changed a set of front rotors and disc on my 1957 Chev.. Bel Air because they had built up so much that they actually caught fire and stop the vehicle from rolling. I originally thought they pistons wear gummed up from sitting so long causing them to drag and the resulting heat build up. So... not the case I changed them for a new set of CCP 11in. brakes and rotors and Iam experiencing the same problem. Can any one tell me what I am doing wrong

Thanks

[S10 Racer]

Originally Posted by Bad 57

I recently changed a set of front rotors and disc on my 1957 Chev.. Bel Air because they had built up so much that they actually caught fire and stop the vehicle from rolling. I originally thought they pistons wear gummed up from sitting so long causing them to drag and the resulting heat build up. So... not the case I changed them for a new set of CCP 11in. brakes and rotors and Iam experiencing the same problem. Can any one tell me what I am doing wrong

Thanks

How many wheels does it affect? It may be a problem with the Master Cylinder or the system still has air in it.

[T-bucket23]

I would look at the brake hoses

[painted jester]

Originally Posted by S10 Racer

How many wheels does it affect? It may be a problem with the Master Cylinder or the system still has air in it.

I've seen this a few times on street rods( but Im not saying this is your problem) the last time was last summer a 32 ford street rod pulled into my shop front disc brakes just to the point of being locked up and red hot I mean glowing red and smoking!!! If I had no experience with this I would have been scratching my head!!! The actuating rod from the pedal to the master cylinder was just a little too long and wouldnt let the piston in the master cylinder come back all the way and every time he hit the brake it would build a little more pressure untill after a while the brakes would be tight. If its a booster on the car and the internal rod is not adjusted right the same thing can happen!

Its an easy check when your brakes are tight and the pedal is all the way up crack a bleeder if there is a lot of pressure this might be your problem.

A master cylinder with a sticking internal piston can cause this too!

These are only a couple of things that can cause your problem! There are more!!

Jester

[RWENUTS]

What are you running for a M/C? You might have an old one with residual check valves in it. The front only needs 2 lbs. The back 10 lbs.

[painted jester]

Did you find the problem ?

[C-cab dreamer]

Painted jester, thanks for that info.
Many years ago I had exactly the same problem on a T-bucket, Buick front discs and master cylinder. It would start dragging even if we were just towing the car. For the life of me I couldn't figure out what it was at the time (20 years ago).
At the race track I disabled the front brakes and ran just using the emergency brake...couldn't get the pedal to stay up after I put the front brakes out of action.
I am almost 100% certain it was because I didn't put the prop valve in right.
Thankfully no one got hurt.

[painted jester]

Originally Posted by C-cab dreamer

Painted jester, thanks for that info.
Many years ago I had exactly the same problem on a T-bucket, Buick front discs and master cylinder. It would start dragging even if we were just towing the car. For the life of me I couldn't figure out what it was at the time (20 years ago).
At the race track I disabled the front brakes and ran just using the emergency brake...couldn't get the pedal to stay up after I put the front brakes out of action.
I am almost 100% certain it was because I didn't put the prop valve in right.
Thankfully no one got hurt.

Your welcome Chris

[C-cab dreamer]

Originally Posted by painted jester

Your welcome Chris

I tell you Chris, I would rather learn that 20 years after the fact than not at all. It's a mistake I definitely wouldn't want to make twice.

Thanks again.

[painted jester]

It a very common mistake I must see at least 2 a year !!

Your thank you makes my day

Thank you for that: Chris