Drip Rail Molding installation - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum

Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
lost password?   |   register now

LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 01-24-2006, 04:27 PM
Registered User
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: maryland
Posts: 90
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Drip Rail Molding installation

I tried to install a drip rail molding on my '66 mustang (it has a vinyl roof).
The molding wasn't about to go over the vinyl and paint without a fight so I "encouraged" it with a nylon hammer. Everything was going fine up the front edge.. over the first bend and across the top. When I tried to go down the second bend towards the trunk the molding had a hissy and self destructed.
In more technical terms it kinked and the front installed section exited from the car.
Well to make a long story longer, I purchased another molding (which isn't cheap by any means and I can't afford to keep doing this) and I need some advise on how not to screw it up again. Can anyone help me ?

One thing that I noticed when I removed the old molding was the "valley" between the molding and roof was filled in with black sealant (like window sealant). Is this normal ? Should I fill it in also ? Might be a good idea because it is hard to put the molding on and making sure that the edge of the vinyl stays under the molding. Justa thought. Thanks

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 01-28-2006, 08:00 PM
roger1's Avatar
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: San Angelo,TX
Age: 61
Posts: 1,182
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 14
Thanked 13 Times in 13 Posts

I can't help you on this but I thought I would reply and get this bumped back to the top so maybe some others that missed your post might see it and give you some help.

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2006, 04:03 AM
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Green Bay, WI
Age: 47
Posts: 2,074
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
I have no idea only. I removed and installed the drip rail molding on a 67 and it was a breeze, got the top set over the lip and centered where it should go and pressed it over working my way down the drip rail till it all snapped into place. No hammer needed. Never tried one with a vinyl top. The mustang I worked on had seam sealer all along the valley of the drip rail (is that what you are talking about?), pretty sure that was done from the factory. I don't know, All i can think of is maybe putting a little vasoline where it is giving you trouble and be carefull. Just a shot. Maybe start installing in the back first? I know it works good for installing stubborn rubber bumpers and stuff into the holes. Hopefully someone has run into this and can give you some suggestions. Is there quite a few layers of paint on it or something. I know its a bit of a tight fit, but I've done a mustang and a 68 cougar way back when, and I don't remember having too many problems with it on the cougar either.

Last edited by kenseth17; 01-29-2006 at 04:22 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2006, 07:39 AM
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 3,220
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have installed them on several of the 67/68 Mustangs that I have had. I always hook them at the top and the bottoms will clip on, as said. I always start at the front, as they often will be longer at the rear, and overhang the lip. Some take a little more convincing, but they go. I have not done one with a vinyl roof, so they may be a little harder.

As for the sealer, there is factory sealer in that area. It normally doesn't interfere with the molding though.

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2006, 08:05 AM
poncho62's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
Last wiki edit: Streetbeasts links
Last journal entry: at car show
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 17,863
Wiki Edits: 5

Thanks: 45
Thanked 636 Times in 479 Posts
Cut the vinyl off the top of the drip rail. That will make it narrower so the trim will fit properly. If you want to put a thin sealer on there, that will help keep the weather out.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2006, 01:34 PM
Registered User
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: maryland
Posts: 90
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
A guy at the mustang barn said that the vinyl on the roof should not be under the drip rail moulding at all. Installation is the same regardless of it having the vinyl roof or not. He also said that there was a metal strip in the "gutter" that is pop-riveted down. This is how they hold the vinyl down not the drip rail moulding as I thought. The sealant in the valley seals the strip/rivets. Guess this makes sense .. there are holes in the drip rail valley.
Now all I have to do is find something suitable as a strip. Someone mentioned having a plastic strip in the valley. Either way the strip is no longer reproduced. Any ideas..

PS: Thanks for the repost .. didn't know that would help.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2006, 09:01 PM
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,706
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Maybe have a sheetmetal shop shear you some nice thing strips of stainless?, making the bend shouldn't be too difficult. Plastic might just shrink, dry up and crack? I did a 67 vinyl top mustange years ago but do not recall seeing a strip along the gutters on that car. Interesting. Or maybe trim about .010 or .020" off the top of the drip rail so the moulding would work over the vinyl?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Please select your insurance company (Optional)


Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Drip Rail repair help Overdrive39 Body - Exterior 3 05-04-2005 03:10 PM
S-10 drip rail seal? TurboS10 Interior 7 01-19-2004 07:44 PM
1964 pontiac drip rail moldings Mick Body - Exterior 2 11-18-2002 06:18 PM
55 Nomad drip rail repair or replacement nomad55 Body - Exterior 4 09-20-2002 10:07 AM
drip rail replacement charlesjonas Body - Exterior 2 04-10-2002 12:08 PM

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:55 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.