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Drip Rail Molding installation

8K views 6 replies 6 participants last post by  baddbob 
#1 ·
I tried to install a drip rail molding on my '66 mustang (it has a vinyl roof).
The molding wasn't about to go over the vinyl and paint without a fight so I "encouraged" it with a nylon hammer. Everything was going fine up the front edge.. over the first bend and across the top. When I tried to go down the second bend towards the trunk the molding had a hissy and self destructed.
In more technical terms it kinked and the front installed section exited from the car.
Well to make a long story longer, I purchased another molding (which isn't cheap by any means and I can't afford to keep doing this) and I need some advise on how not to screw it up again. Can anyone help me ?

One thing that I noticed when I removed the old molding was the "valley" between the molding and roof was filled in with black sealant (like window sealant). Is this normal ? Should I fill it in also ? Might be a good idea because it is hard to put the molding on and making sure that the edge of the vinyl stays under the molding. Justa thought. Thanks
 
#3 · (Edited)
I have no idea only. I removed and installed the drip rail molding on a 67 and it was a breeze, got the top set over the lip and centered where it should go and pressed it over working my way down the drip rail till it all snapped into place. No hammer needed. Never tried one with a vinyl top. The mustang I worked on had seam sealer all along the valley of the drip rail (is that what you are talking about?), pretty sure that was done from the factory. I don't know, All i can think of is maybe putting a little vasoline where it is giving you trouble and be carefull. Just a shot. Maybe start installing in the back first? I know it works good for installing stubborn rubber bumpers and stuff into the holes. Hopefully someone has run into this and can give you some suggestions. Is there quite a few layers of paint on it or something. I know its a bit of a tight fit, but I've done a mustang and a 68 cougar way back when, and I don't remember having too many problems with it on the cougar either.
 
#4 ·
I have installed them on several of the 67/68 Mustangs that I have had. I always hook them at the top and the bottoms will clip on, as said. I always start at the front, as they often will be longer at the rear, and overhang the lip. Some take a little more convincing, but they go. I have not done one with a vinyl roof, so they may be a little harder.

As for the sealer, there is factory sealer in that area. It normally doesn't interfere with the molding though.

Aaron
 
#6 ·
A guy at the mustang barn said that the vinyl on the roof should not be under the drip rail moulding at all. Installation is the same regardless of it having the vinyl roof or not. He also said that there was a metal strip in the "gutter" that is pop-riveted down. This is how they hold the vinyl down not the drip rail moulding as I thought. The sealant in the valley seals the strip/rivets. Guess this makes sense .. there are holes in the drip rail valley.
Now all I have to do is find something suitable as a strip. Someone mentioned having a plastic strip in the valley. Either way the strip is no longer reproduced. Any ideas..

PS: Thanks for the repost .. didn't know that would help.
 
#7 ·
Maybe have a sheetmetal shop shear you some nice thing strips of stainless?, making the bend shouldn't be too difficult. Plastic might just shrink, dry up and crack? I did a 67 vinyl top mustange years ago but do not recall seeing a strip along the gutters on that car. Interesting. Or maybe trim about .010 or .020" off the top of the drip rail so the moulding would work over the vinyl?
 
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