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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2005, 05:49 PM
Rob Keller's Avatar
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and i do believe that you can just as easy get a loose piece stuck up in a valve
if you want to clean the carbon deposits out go to the local Marina and get a product called PWRTUNE by quick silver follow the instructions and if there is room for improvement this will do it

ive seen marine engines with 70-80 lbs on the compression test come up to 140 BIG time improvement
its about $8. a can awesome for cleaning out lawn mower carbs that the gas has gone to GAK

try it you'll like it.......


SR66

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2005, 09:15 PM
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Thanks a ton for all the responses guys.

Like I said, the motor is literally on its last leg. It has a cold knock to it that goes away after 3-5 seconds of run time, and the top end of the motor rattles a tad bit any time you left off the gas after being in kind of high RPMS (3-4kish).

I am basically doing this just to know how to do it. I figure a motor like the one in the truck now would be perfect to practice on because it's worn out, I have another motor to go in it, and it's a vehicle I can afford to keep outta commission a month or two because it's a toy that "ain't eatin nothing". I am not really expecting any miracles, but if keeps me going another couple weeks until the new motor is in, it didn't cost anything so really nothing to lose.

Besides those 2 motors I have a 3rd 22r motor I picked up for free, but it has a big chunk of block missing. I have that one for spare rods and such, so I am not really worried about breaking anything. I will let you guys know how it goes.

Thanks again for everyones response.

Rob
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 08-02-2005, 09:48 PM
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hey rob just throw a qt of lucas oiltreatment in it and let it ride my ford has that cold knock for 50,000 miles now its good stuff less than $10.


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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2007, 04:58 AM
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Hi Yall
Drdreads here as a teck for 2 decads I ran across a lot of "miricale"cures for rough run car or grandma driven cars. working through quite a fewmy solution to this I used for all tune ups and some drivability problems .
Take about 4 foot of vacum hose conect to carb perferably above throtle plate(same as butter flyton injected engines) the other side into a quart of trans fluid. Start motor let idle for 30-40 sec then rev to aprox 3k and reidle(makes lots of smoke) peferable do this in a desolate quiet area. this draws the trans fluid through the air path and burn in the chamber in the process cleans every thing in its path. No chance of hydro locking an engine.
?have people tried cleaning hands or parts with trans oil? deep cleaning fluid.
The other fluids to use instead oftrans fluid is marvel mystrey or water. Water cheapest then trans fluid then marvel. The method above I found fail safe to control no hydrolock or cooling chamber to quick and damaging plugs.


******disclamer THIS WILL CREATE HUGE AMOUNT OF SMOKE *********
You will P*** other techs vent well.


Drdreads
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2007, 06:33 AM
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To properly clean carbon from combustion chambers (on a carbureted engine), a drip has to be used with the correct cleaner.

Introducing ATF into a running engine will only cause rings to stick. Water maybe induce corrosion. In the thumbnail is what was once used, I think BG has a similiar product now.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2007, 06:46 AM
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water in carb

I think back in the late 70's or early 80's, Holley made a water injection system for high compression engine to control detonation.
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Old 01-08-2007, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigjak

I think back in the late 70's or early 80's, Holley made a water injection system for high compression engine to control detonation.
And you will notice it was short lived, even with the addition of alcohol (into the engine-not driver) as it caused corrosion problems.
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Old 01-08-2007, 07:44 AM
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Thats what I thought, I saw one at a swap meet awhile back. I don't think I'd be pouring water in my motors. If the motor is that carboned up, there has got to other problems.
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Old 01-08-2007, 09:09 AM
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Drip water into carb (sure it's been asked before)

Im crackin up here what 25 post ? Lucas Oil ? STP? Rebuild your motor for 19.95 ? And the Old trucker trick of usin ATF ? Not sure what kinda money you all are puttin out on your motors but Im a Poor boy ! Means if I gott 3 grand in a Motor , Ive Begged borrowed and Stolen the parts too Build Somethin worth twice that . Also mean's I got a lott more Time than Money ! For years Ive heard the water trick . Yeah it works But dont reccomend it ! Usually ! If its old v8 or 6 inline motor and its Pingin from Pre detonation Due too the Carbon build up becomeing glowing hot and causeing the compressed gas and oygen too predetonate ? I Might after exhausting all other avenues and left with no other choice . <, as in I have too drive it ! I might use a spray bottle too mist the carb of the motor , too see if it helps the pinging ! But only as an absolute last resort ! Yes Water will remove Carbon build up . It will also scour piston walls , warp valve, break rings , plug up oiler ring and piston ports etc . ATf << Totally useless unless its Deisel . 19.95 Engine rebuilder << Will quiet things down for a while . Help pump up Hydraulic Lifters etc But it will also Allow you too Runn the motor until absolutely nothing is salvageable for the rebuild . Im of the school of thought here . That nothin Goes in my Motors except water gas and oil ,and New Parts, and in there prospective places ! Now on Aluminum Heads << Absolutely No Water . Crack's more than spark plug porcelain . Will and can crack heads between Valves and Spark plug holes . On your 22R Toyota <<< Great units . Good for 400 K miles on bottom end and 200 k on top end . In fact if every 150 k you rebuild the head on a 22r or 20 r Toy motor you can gett 600 k out of these motors . << It's Possible ! If at 200 k miles you re- ring and rebuild the head ive seen um run over 400 k miles . Your best bett here is too install your Rebuilt motor then chuck your old motor up in an engine stand . Pull Head See what kinda Shape rings and pistons are in then Rebuild the Head for it; if it seem's too be a feasible Bottom end . Then you have a spare motor. Just in Case that Rebuild Goes Scatty Boo ? Like Ive said Toy 20 R and 22 R motors Bottom end's Last for ever . There Good Units ! Excuse My Communication Skill's. Im Old and I usually just Grunt a Lott , or throw tool's too communicate ! Im also a newbie in here ! I love them Toyota Truck's . Jobbers manual calls for I think its 6 Hours on Front seal <<, Where they always leak ? I have a trick makes it an hour and a half job . << Meaning Front seal leaks Are more like a chore than a Job ? Yipp They always leak around front seal . <<, Theres a Fix for it ! Sean
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2008, 09:35 AM
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fiolater

the idea is to get the gas to a temp that it is in a gasses state then present small amount of steam its called cracking the idea is just the gas will convert back to liquid under pressure in the cylinder,though presenting it with a little steam changes its makeup chemicaly so it stays as gas and you get the best form of combustion,every saw it in the back of pm 10 or 20yrs ago I dont know anybody that bouhgt it,I was told last night it was so hot of a combustion it melted valves and engine on the old flat heads in the 30's.but your suppossed to get 50 x mpg after cange. i'd like to try in on my lawn mower with a forged piston and a 2 stroke motor
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2008, 07:22 PM
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I have used the water trick on many vehicles. We never poor it in though, we usually suck it in through a restricted vacuum hose. it give you better control and reduces the risk of accidentally dumping in to much and damaging something.
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Old 03-16-2008, 12:11 AM
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Water will steam clean the piston tops and combustion chambers over time if you spray it in at the right amount over a good length of time, to create steam without killing the combustion process. The trouble is , pouring it in is very hard to control the amount of water and the length of time is too short.
A good water injection system will steam clean the combustion chamber just about spotless in about a week of hard driving. The water is only injected while the engine is under load at or near WOT . Best done on the hyway. If really carboned up, be prepared for spark plug fouling as a chunk of loose carbon can often get stuck on the spark plug tip causing miss fire. Best to carry a set of new spark plugs and a plug wrench with ya.
This will not corrode the inside of the engine or wash down cylinder walls as long as the amount of water spray injected at high pressure is not excessive and only done intermittently while under load. Doesn't take a lot of water to do this, but it does take more than a few minutes.

Haven't tried spraying this down the carb of a running engine but Easy Off spray oven cleaner really bits in and cleans carbon and other combustion deposits off pistons and chambers and valves.
Use it like combustion chamber cleaner. Spray in at a high idle speed, until the motor stalls. Let it sit for a bit to soak in. Clean the spark plugs and fire it up. Rev the *&^% out of it to blow out all the loose crap and then install new spark plugs after you've smoked out the neighbourhood. If you don't toss a connecting rod out the side of the block from all the abuse, it will probabily run better.
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