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Old 04-03-2010, 05:01 PM
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Drive Shaft Yoke

I have a drive shaft with a slip yoke on my 88 K5 blazer and today I was changing the u-joint when I noticed that one of the ears is cracked...so now I have to replace this slip yoke, problem is I can't find one anywhere. Maybe some one has seem them somewhere...on one side of the yoke it says: SPICER Z28 on the other side it says: F3-3-29 H SCAN. Its 16 spline.

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Old 04-03-2010, 06:04 PM
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what about grinding a v-groove where the crack is and then welding it there? Then I'd grind the weld smooth.
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Old 04-03-2010, 06:09 PM
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welding the piece will most likely mess up the strength of the unit.

I suggest a replace to avoid a drive shaft flying around hitting stuff
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Old 04-03-2010, 06:21 PM
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drive shaft yoke

We put 48 jeepster on a blazer chassis, had to move the engine and trans-T case back and had to make new drive shafts. some of the newer model big chevy cars used the same parts. I WOULDN't go to the trouble to weld and worry about strength. Check other GM products for interchange parts.
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Old 04-03-2010, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frickenbored
I have a drive shaft with a slip yoke on my 88 K5 blazer and today I was changing the u-joint when I noticed that one of the ears is cracked...so now I have to replace this slip yoke, problem is I can't find one anywhere. Maybe some one has seem them somewhere...on one side of the yoke it says: SPICER Z28 on the other side it says: F3-3-29 H SCAN. Its 16 spline.
Don't weld it! Since you said its 16 spline I'm assuming its the slip yoke that slides on the stub of the driveline. Google Spicer 2-4-8001KX. Thats for a 1310 U-joint. The longer version of that yoke is Spicer# 2-4-8021KX.

If you dont have the 1310 series U-joint, give me the measurements of the joint and I can tell you the part number for the yoke.

Last edited by prostreet6t9; 04-03-2010 at 06:47 PM.
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Old 04-04-2010, 07:57 AM
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well heres the thing, this driveshaft is temporary. I only need it to work untill I get my 14 bolt full floater in with a 4" lift. Then I'm going to get a custom alu driveshaft with a 1330 u-joint at the front and a 1350 u-joint in the rear and convert my np203 output yoke from a 1310 to a 1330, plus this driveshaft will likely be to short anyway. The driveshaft I have now looks like it was hacked up a couple times, I just need this yoke to hold for a little while so I can move the truck to work on it, its not a daily driver. I don't really want to pay $50-$100 on a yoke that will be useless in less than a year.

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Old 04-04-2010, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frickenbored
well heres the thing, this driveshaft is temporary. I only need it to work untill I get my 14 bolt full floater in with a 4" lift. Then I'm going to get a custom alu driveshaft with a 1330 u-joint at the front and a 1350 u-joint in the rear and convert my np203 output yoke from a 1310 to a 1330, plus this driveshaft will likely be to short anyway. The driveshaft I have now looks like it was hacked up a couple times, I just need this yoke to hold for a little while so I can move the truck to work on it, its not a daily driver. I don't really want to pay $50-$100 on a yoke that will be useless in less than a year.
You should be able to find one for $40 to 45ish. If that's still out of your budget maybe you should look in the junk yards. Its just not a good idea to try and weld up cracks in the yokes. If that comes apart you might end up spending way more than $50 bucks fixing the damage it caused.
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Old 04-04-2010, 08:46 AM
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I would not drive the vehicle with a hacked together drive line - yoke.

moving around in the yard or shop would be the only use I would be OK with. No road driving
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Old 04-04-2010, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prostreet6t9
You should be able to find one for $40 to 45ish. If that's still out of your budget maybe you should look in the junk yards. Its just not a good idea to try and weld up cracks in the yokes. If that comes apart you might end up spending way more than $50 bucks fixing the damage it caused.
Been there, when I swaped in my 383 the u-joint at the rear axle gave out and whipped my driveshaft all over, I have those driveshaft straps on the truck now so if it breaks now its all good. I'm going to wait untill I get my new trans in the truck, I don't even know if this driveshaft will work. I had a 2wd 700r4 with a 2" aluminum spacer on the back because the output shaft was too long, so now going to a 4wd th400 this shaft might be too short, i don't know yet. If it works I'll buy a new yoke, for now I welded the crack.
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