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Old 11-24-2007, 11:27 PM
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driveline issues and tranny question

I have a muncie 3 speed tran that is on a 63 chevy c10 with a 12 bolt rearend. when i purchased the truck it had this drive line that me and my dad took out, and we put it back in again and it fit, we soon took it out and left it out for about 3 months, now it wont fit, we tried pulling the whole rearend as far back as it will go to see it we could get it in that way, we took out the u joint and the drive line then fit but when we put the u joint back in it kept hitting this bolt type screw in the middle of where the drive line goes. we have spent 3 days trying to get it in and nothing is working and we are stumped. we used the same u joint this time as we did the past 2 times. anybody have any suggestions or tips on how to get the darn thing in.


Also i am looking for a good strong automatic tranny for a 327 for my truck, i am more than likely going to get one at a junk yard for now. does anybody know what type of tranny i should get???

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Old 11-25-2007, 06:44 AM
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Your best bet for a tranny is probably a Turbo350......Cheap and reliable.

Why your driveline won't fit is beyond me......You had to have changed something, or it would slide right back in there. Does the driveshaft have 2 or 3 "U" joints?
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Old 11-25-2007, 08:43 AM
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driveline

well the thing is poncho we took out the drive line, not changing nothing, we didnt adjust the rear end, didnt do jack and were we left it is where it fit but it didnt fit when we went back and tried to put it back in. me and my dad was wondering if i should just get like 1/4 inch cut off and rebalanced cause thats what its lacking to fit in now and thats with the rearend pushed all the way back, we have no clue.
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Old 11-25-2007, 08:45 AM
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Need more info to help.When you say you removed driveline do you mean engine tranny and drive shaft or just drive shaft? Also do you have a cross member under bell housing with a mount on both sides to bell housing?You should have a front yoke and u joint,center u joint and hanger bearing with a slip joint,and a rear u joint.What part wont go in ?Also if you changed hanger bearing did you line up the yokes properly?
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Old 11-25-2007, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pat63chevy
well the thing is poncho we took out the drive line, not changing nothing, we didnt adjust the rear end, didnt do jack and were we left it is where it fit but it didnt fit when we went back and tried to put it back in. me and my dad was wondering if i should just get like 1/4 inch cut off and rebalanced cause thats what its lacking to fit in now and thats with the rearend pushed all the way back, we have no clue.
Do not cut and shorten the driveshaft....find out what the problem is...your driveshaft did not grow a quarter of a inch longer. You have something that is not lined up right....some of those two piece drive shafts have master splines and if they are not lined up they will not allow the shaft to slide in the yoke all the way...it has goit to be something simple like that. Your tranny and rear end did not move. Do some more serious looking.
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Old 11-25-2007, 09:59 AM
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HENRY you are right the first car and truck I ever had and worked on where chevys with 2 piece drive shafts and thats why I was trying to get more info because what you said makes a difference and we need to figure out the problem not rig around it.It is probably as simple as wether the rear end is hanging or suppoted by jack stands as with the trailing arm suspesion this could be the 1/4" differance for installation.
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Old 11-25-2007, 02:10 PM
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With the rear end hanging----the distance between the pinion and the rear of the trans is quite a bit shorter. As much as 2-3 inches.

Support the rear or even jack it up some---the shaft should slip right in.

Any vehicle that has the rear control arms/coil springs will behave this way.

Just the nature of the rearend arcing around the pivot point in the frame.

Bryan
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Old 11-25-2007, 04:00 PM
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The 60-72 trucks have super long control arms; I don't think the wheelbase changes all that much.

The short wheelbase pickups did not use a 2 piece driveshaft, just the 8' and rare 9' beds.

this problem has me baffled, I've worked on 60-66's for years

Quote:
but when we put the u joint back in it kept hitting this bolt type screw in the middle of where the drive line goes.
This sounds like he is trying to get the rear ujoint into the pinion yoke, but the ujoint boss on the driveshaft is hitting the pinion threaded end???? Sure sounds like the shaft is too long? ...especially if it is a one-piece shaft?

If it's a stock 3 speed, it will have a slip joint at the trans like an auto trans yoke. Is there any chance something got into the driveshaft yoke internal splined hole??? ...while the shaft was off?
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Old 11-25-2007, 10:57 PM
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rearend and trannyt

its a one piece drive shaft, not a 2 piece. i have had it put up where nothing could reach it and i always check to make sure its clear b4 i slip it into the tail of the tranny. it has a muncie 3 speed in it. but the thing is, is that it fitted before and hes right it cant grow. im going to try to jack up the rear end because we was just letting it hand by the springs. maybe that is are problem i hope.

Last edited by pat63chevy; 11-25-2007 at 11:00 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 11-25-2007, 11:06 PM
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tranny

hey guys i also want to get a turbo 350 trans for my 63 chevy p/u. i have a floor shifter in there now ( not the stock 3 on the tree). will i be able to get like a slap stick shifter to put with the automatic and just mount it on my floor. and is there any way i could raise the shifter or will it have to mount to the floor.
patrick
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Old 11-26-2007, 06:58 AM
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Most automatic shifters work with a cable, so you could raise it up if you wanted.
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Old 11-26-2007, 07:54 AM
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I've done at least a dozen auto trans swaps on 60-66 trucks, using TH 350, TH400, & 700R4.

You need to cut out the standard-trans-only crossmember under the bellhousing. However, that member also kept the frame rails from twisting outwards due to the massive weight of the front cab supports that are on the outside of each rail near that member.

GM used a super heavy duty "auto-trans-only" rear trans crossmember to attach to the upper & lower flanges on the frame, to help keep the frame from twisting.

63-66 auto trans crossmembers are hard to find, but 67-72 pickup w/auto's have a near identical one. Yes, you could just put in an aftermarket trans mount that just attaches to the bottom flange, but you should really try to get the GM one if you want it solid.

The only hard part of that crossmember installation is that it is hard to drill the 4 new holes in the upper frame flanges. I drill the lower flanges first, then use a one foot long 3/8" drill up through the bottom holes to be able to reach the top flanges
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Old 11-26-2007, 07:59 PM
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driveline

Check the splines inside the front yoke of the drive shaft. Sometimes a very light layer of rust will form inside the yoke after they have set for a while, and will not let the yoke slide all the way into the trans. Try squirting some WD-40 inside the yoke and take a small wire brush and clean the splines as good as possible.
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