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Old 06-29-2008, 05:41 PM
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driveshaft tunnel question

Hey guys, I am using an S10 frame under my '39 Ford two door. I'm about to build floorboards. I have four braces running across the frame. They are made out of one inch square tubing, 1/8 inch thick. I need to cut these in the middle and make some curved supports for the driveshaft tunnel. I would think this would be hard with the square tubing. What else could I use? I intend to weld one inch braces to the cross pieces to go in line with the tunnel. Am I on the right track? The tunnels in these cars are aboput five inches tall and across. Can I make this bigger? Thanks in advance, Rod

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Old 06-29-2008, 06:26 PM
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Look at NEW INTERIORS Homemade rat rod thread. He cut the 1" tubes and ran a 1" X2" tube front to back on each side.This supports the floor and the tunnel is just sheet metal to cover the drive shaft. It looks great and then you only have to bend sheet metal instead of tubing and it is very strong. I jumped on it myself.I weigh 192 LBS.
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Old 06-29-2008, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raj4851
Hey guys, I am using an S10 frame under my '39 Ford two door. I'm about to build floorboards. I have four braces running across the frame. They are made out of one inch square tubing, 1/8 inch thick. I need to cut these in the middle and make some curved supports for the driveshaft tunnel. I would think this would be hard with the square tubing. What else could I use? I intend to weld one inch braces to the cross pieces to go in line with the tunnel. Am I on the right track? The tunnels in these cars are aboput five inches tall and across. Can I make this bigger? Thanks in advance, Rod
You can use anything from flat stock to round tubing. Either curved to whatever radius you want to use and then weld them to the cross braces. Square tubing can be (sort of) bent in a radius but will collapse on the underside. Go to CBOY'S journal on this site. He shows with photo's of a bending fixture he made for square tubing. Go HERE and also page 12 when the journal is viewed from the beginning to see the tooling he made.

You can make the tunnel as high and/or wide as you wish and can still clear whatever seats you use.

Now I must comment.

It seems to me that many folks either think or have been told that an S10 frame is a great swap for early Ford bodies. I assume that these folks think that the updated suspension and brakes will be a great improvement over the original Ford. It is my opinion that the majority of the time the suspension and brakes can be easily updated using the original frame and at a much lower cost in $$$ as well as the fact that the S10 frame is NOT designed to fit these earlier Ford bodies. This results in many hours spent attempting to fit the bodies to the frame. The wheelbase is usually incorrect as well as the tread width. Either will be major work to alter so that they fit the body and actually work as designed.

In my opinion (I know you didn't ask for that) swapping the frame is not a viable solution.

Last edited by Frisco; 06-30-2008 at 08:17 AM. Reason: added link to CBOY's journal
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Old 06-29-2008, 08:05 PM
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I Didn't put any support at all inside the tunnel on my rat rod.I just put the support under the floor.I wrapped the tunnel with 14 gauge steel.I thought I would need something there, but glad I didn't waste my time to put it.It is very strong once you wrap it with 14 gauge. I try not to use round tubing on a car if I can help it. Especially on something that has to support something,But that's just me!!!!!
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Old 06-30-2008, 07:57 AM
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I'm going to move this thread to General Rodding Tech.

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Old 06-30-2008, 07:25 PM
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Thanks Speedydeedy, NewInteriors, Frisco

Hey guys, Thanks for all the great advice. It helped a bunch! I now know how to proceed. New Interior's's work in progress gives me really good example. I appreciate the 192 lb. Speededeedy checking the supports out. Frisco, let me comment to your comment. I think the concensus is to stick with the original frame, with which I agree. I bought the body and had the frame already. Apart from that, I had twelve inches added to make the wheelbase right, had the frame narrowed to thirty seven inches at the cowl area so I could channel the body three inches over the frame. Yes, not the best fit, however, it is working and with the narrow frame width at the rear, I can run nine or ten inch tires and keep them under the fenders. Like I said, it's what I had. It's been an experience but it's working out and hasn't been the horror story that I thought it could have been. Again, thanks for all the advice and comments, Rod
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Old 06-30-2008, 08:31 PM
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Old 06-30-2008, 08:52 PM
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Frisco ,I am with you on not the best choice but I am also with raj on using what you have.I think we have all been there.
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