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Old 12-27-2009, 09:10 PM
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A drool - I found it way after cut 'n' buff

I was installing the interior of my long term project car this afternoon and I made a discovery - one of those dreaded 'drools' in the SPI clear . Never mind that I painted the car almost TWO years ago - I just plain completely missed cut 'n' buff a quarter panel just behind the left door of my '31 Ford A roadster and it has a 2-3 inch long sag. Since I only had one other very minor run on the car, it was easy 3-4 days after I painted it to dress out with 1000, 1500, 2000. Now,this paint is now hard as a rock. Do I need to take any different methods to dress down? My guess is no, but ......

Dave W

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Old 12-27-2009, 10:00 PM
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naa as far as i know you need to do it just like you did in the beginning. im unfamiliar with spi clear so I cant help much. But I do know their is nothing else you can do besides wet-sand and buff.

Look at the good side of it, It took you 2 years to notice it, after you cut and buff it even if it is not perfect, its not going to show bad.
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Old 12-27-2009, 10:20 PM
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Dull one side of a razorblade on a sheet of 180 this will curl the cutting edge, then drag the opposite side (curled side down) in one direction over the run as you would a block. SPI clear is great for this. I run everything I spray at least one spot and I have never went through. Remember, slow and steady. Good luck!!!
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Old 12-28-2009, 06:17 AM
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Nothing to worry about, treat it like you would if it was a few days old.
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Old 12-28-2009, 06:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 35prog
...then drag the opposite side (curled side down) in one direction over the run as you would a block.
Is the blade perpendicular to the painted surface, flat down on the surface, or somewhere in-between.

I've tried this method in the past but haven't had much success...so I figure I must be doing something wrong.
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Old 12-28-2009, 07:46 AM
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If it were me, I would be very hesitant to use the razor blade, too easy to gouge it IMHO. I would rely more on the tried and true method of a good flat board and 800 wet/dry paper wet. Go slow and check it often with the surrounding paint. When close move up to 1500 then compound and buff.

Vince
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Old 12-28-2009, 08:31 AM
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Thanks guys - and from Mr SPI, Barry K - that's the voice of the expert on the CC .

The razor blade method scares me as an amateur painter. I do use a steel scraper occasionally for woodwork, but a dig, that's not quite as 'permanent' as it would be on my $$$$ paint job.


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Old 12-28-2009, 09:55 PM
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I use a #9 razor blade, I put tape on each end (just one wrap each side)
then you scrape at about a 90 degree angle back and forth, I let the blade drag a little so it doesn't catch the clear and cut in.

It's a little scary to do with hours old clear, but 2 years of curing you shouldn't have any problems.

After the initial clear run scraping, then I use wet sanding stone blocks(almost like a knife sharpener) they come in 400/600/800/1000/1200/1500/2000 grit

I'll start off with a 600-800 depending on the run, and work my way up to a 1000, it blocks the run pretty flat (and just sands the run and not the clear around the run), then I use 1200/1500 on a finish DA sander,buff and voila.
Just as long as the clear stayed clear in the run, it should look like it was never there.

It sounds like a process, but it only takes me about 5-10 minutes to do.

I know from experience that trying to paper wet sand out runs usually doesn't work very well, and if you don't scrape with a blade or use a stone, the surrounding clear tends to break through before the run is gone.
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Old 12-28-2009, 10:32 PM
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I use a razor blade all the time on runs.
I often dull the blade just a tad by rubbing the it on a piece of fine sandpaper and also round over the corners of the blade on a piece of 80 grit so those won't dig in.

Hold the blade perpendicular to the surface, well not quite 90 degrees, at a slight angle from being 90 degrees. Use the razor blade to scrape the run, and don't scrape back and forth, scrape in one direction.
Works really well for me, if the clear is not too soft, and doesn't really take off much precious material surrounding the run. When the run is close to level, then finish up with block and paper.
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Old 12-29-2009, 08:51 AM
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IF you're going to use a razor blade, sand the corners of the blade round, very less likely to dig in.

You could guide-coat the area first so you are not block sanding thru the surrounding clear.
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Old 12-29-2009, 09:07 AM
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Folks - I'm too "chicken" to use a razor blade so it will be wet 'n' dry 1000 - 2000 If I sand through - oh well!!!

To those of you who want to use a scraper/blade, sounds like a good way for a more experienced painter/finisher then me

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Old 12-29-2009, 09:21 AM
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First of all Thats not a run......You can spot a real run right off......Its called a flow indicator a must for a proper paint job... Nothing to worry about...like Barry said.
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Old 12-29-2009, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by deadbodyman
First of all Thats not a run......You can spot a real run right off......Its called a flow indicator a must for a proper paint job... Nothing to worry about...like Barry said.
You are probably right, DBM - it flowed, but I only had two, one of which I found and fixed 2 years ago and this one. What really must have happened - I think someone snuck in and did it to my car a few days ago. My specs may be thick, but not Coke bottle bottoms. Yet!!!

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Old 12-29-2009, 11:57 AM
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At least they didnt pop up on delivery day and the customer pointed it out.Funny thing though ,I had a customer point one out one time and wanted it fixed but I didnt paint that side of the car.
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Old 12-29-2009, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbodyman
At least they didnt pop up on delivery day and the customer pointed it out.Funny thing though ,I had a customer point one out one time and wanted it fixed but I didnt paint that side of the car.
You must of had your gun pressure set too high, it pushed a run out the other side of the car.
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