37, you still have the same issues with the TH 350. There is not much difference in the width of the two pans. The biggest difference is the additional 2+ inches length and a slight more height above the body/pan section. I have run both by chopping up the X member, but in these cases, the tranny could not be removed from the underside of the vehicle. It was necessary to remove most all the front sheetmetal and pull motor and tranny simultaneously. Plan your X member mod so you can drop it out the bottom!!!

Trees

thanks Trees, when i put the 700r4 in my vette i used a cross member from Bowtie overdrives that worked really well it was simple tubing with a mount that was bolt on/off deal. i definitely will make the trans be able to drop out...

I'm building a 36 Ford 5w that will go on top of a TCI with 2" drop spindles. The TCI frame is said to be 4" lower than stock before the 2" drop spindles. I think they mean 4" front and back. I'm aways off from putting the body on and would like to begin thinking of wheel and tire set up....

Anyone out there ever used the TCI with 2" drop spindles....I sure would like to see a picture of one with body and wheels.

Originally I sent this question to Duce but I welcome an other comments or suggestions. I have been reading your comments with great interest. I have an issue that I am concerned about and am hoping that you can give me some advise. I've got a 36 Ford Coupe that has been channeled 5". In addition to this it has a Superbell 4" dropped axle, split wishbones and reverse eye spring. Guess what,......It sits so low that the tires won't clear the original steel fenders. So I bought fiberglass fenders and radiused the openings of the wheelwell just enough to clear the tires when I turn. Problem is, when going around corners the body roll causes the tires to rub. I really don't want to cut on the fenders any more. Otherwise the car steers fine and runs along down the road just great. I have been told by others to add a spacer on the top of the spring between the crossmember to lower the suspension a little. I have made a 1 1/2" spacer about 6" long and have ordered new U-bolts from Posie. I am now ready to install them. Do you think I will have any issues with handling or other unforseen problems in doing this fix? It seems to be the only resolution to the problem.
Thanks,
Ron Alexander
Seattle

As the Moderator here, I would like to
WELCOME YOU HERE.......

I have replied to your PM....
I would reverse the eyes on the spring back to the down position.......

DEUCE.....

ok build 3 under way.....you know this kit actually looks kind of nice and the those C4 suspensions were engineered really well......

Deuce, What do i have to do to hook up a SBC to the original 3 spd transmission? this is an angle i had not thought of.....is there some adapter plate between the trans and the block? and will the trans and rear end handle two or three times the HP of the original stuff? thanks Bob

Old, old hot rodder trick........
There are companies that make a engine/transmission adapter that allows the use of the stock transmission........and stock rear end.





They are available from Wilcap......and others. Mine was a Wilcap....one of the first companies making the conversions kits back then.
My 40 Ford coupe was done this way in 1957. Most everything is stock except the engine and the adapter. You use a 168 tooth Chevrolet manual shift flywheel, a 55 - 57 Chevrolet type 3 bolt starter ( that bolts to the bellhousing see the bulge in the adapter... ) , a 50 Mercury pressure plate and the stock clutch disc from the donor vehicle. A special pilot bearing is also required. ( $20 ) . 12 volt conversion also......

Front engine mounts are available (required for this swap ).

My engine was a 283 - 270 Horse Corvette engine.......I took the dual 4's off and went with one Edelbrock.....I had 55 Chevrolet exhaust manifolds.....to clear the stock steering. No cutting or butchering. All bolt in....no welding or making parts work. The Flattie could go right back in....BUT WHY ??



Drove it everywhere...with no problems for many years. I have been to Ohio, Florida, back to Louisville KY....many times to Pigeon Forge and the Great Smokey Mountains..from the middle of South Carolina.

I drove it like I was a adult.......but did not really baby it either. It was a old moonshiners car before I got. SO ......you know HE DROVE IT.... it served him well.......he installed the 283 in 57........when the Feds were getting close to catching him with the flathead in the coupe.

the original tranys wont handel the flat head. i put a 302 ford in a 47 years ago and broke the tranney every 2nd time out plus the ujoint is pretty light and is weak. go open drive line and a modern diff. cliff

47 years ago is ...........uh.......1958 ?

A 302 ?
You were 18......

How about 37 years ago ( 1968 ...when the 302 came out ) or a 272-292-312 in 1958

I had a friend ( now deceased ) who said he tore up those transmissions .............every other week....in the 50's ....... I went thru mine about 5 years ago and put a new main drive and a few bearings.....it was noisy......but never broke anything.

Modern driveline is more dependable and trouble free......

thanks Deuce thats a very interesting idea to me.....what is the rear axle drive ratio on the 37 ford 4dr? and does anybody know the final drive ratio of third gear? is it 1:1 like in todays cars? thanks Bob

3rd gear is 1 to 1 ......in a 37...
The rear end ratio can vary from 3.54 to down in the 4's......

If original, the ratio will be stamped on the rear end housing. On the banjo section.......look on the passenger side.......at about 2 oclock.....it should be stamped there.

3.54 is the highest factory gear.......but there are 3.25's available from the aftermarket.

A smaller engine ( 283 - 305 - 307 ) usually works best......
My 40 was a 3.78 gear car. I drove it 65 to 70 MPH with a 29 inch tall tire all day on the interstates.....but it was turning 3100 RPMs at 70 MPH.

my error i ment i put a 302 into a 1947 ford 2dr car useing a adaptor to the 47 transmittion., eventuallymodified the case and inst 56 gears then the ujoints broke,those old trans ar very frail i have a 47 truck with the original type flathead and can break the trany if not carfull, cliff tate

run a 3in bell tube axel in my 32ford with split wish bones but pivot points are inbord of frame rails useing tie rod ends on the wishbone ends so ther is less twist, have had no problems in 5years handels great steers fine. i can not se what difference a tube would be over a forged axel plus some of the new axels ar cast steel as i am told. but hear again i may learn something, seems after every post some good info comes to light. cliff

is the comment about a smaller engine working best based on the engine producing less torque/Hp, then a hopped up 350? Perhaps its lucky then the vette engine i'm installing is out of a 79 and is producing in the 200 hp range.

i will check for that gear ratio tonight, the banjo section is that the back of the axle and on the "nest"? thanks for all the help...(this makes build number 4 on the chasiss/drvieline alone) not sure i want to be cruising with 4.00 or lower gears back there.....