Dropping a 1948 Ford F1 on a 1991 F150 frame - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2007, 08:43 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Southeastern,Pa.
Posts: 9
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Dropping a 1948 Ford F1 on a 1991 F150 frame

This might be my future project...I have an chance to buy a complete 1991 F150 cheap, truck runs and is in nice condition(salvage title)minor front end damage.I have a few 1948 F1 projects that I'm looking to get on the road...Has anyone done this swap OR how should I go about this swap?

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2007, 10:12 PM
Kusto's Avatar
FORD Tuff with CHEVY stuff
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 19
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
My 48 F1 is on 1972 Chevy Chassis and drive train. The biggest thing is building new body mounts and you may need to narrow the front suspension.

Mine has also been lowered 2.5 inches in suspension and 2.5 inch body drop.

Then the only other real issue is shortening the frame in order to get the correct wheel spacing in the fenders.

Good luck.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2007, 09:54 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Southeastern,Pa.
Posts: 9
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Where to cut frame to shorten wheelbase? For the time being could I get away with a stake bed? And narrow suspention in what way? cutting frame? My real concern is getting the 1991 shoehorned under the 1948 cab and frontend,how much frame mod did yours entail and do you have picts.? My first intentions were the rims and tires for my paneltruck,but if the swap was DOABLE I could get one of my other project trucks closer to the road.What do ya think is it DOABLE?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2007, 01:06 AM
Kusto's Avatar
FORD Tuff with CHEVY stuff
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 19
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Anything is doable....especially with enough experience, time and money.

1 - You will need to first of all decide if you are confident in your own ability to weld the frame once you've made the cut and are are willing to risk your life, the life of anyone that may be riding with you as well as others on the road. (this is not to be taken lightly and if you are not confident in your ability to adequately weld the thicker metal, then hire a mobile welder to do the work.)

2 - (if you are confident in your abilities) ensure that you have the appropriate equipment to do the job. A small mig welder is not adequate for this work.

3 - The body mounts of both vehicles, and the "perches" for the body mounts on the two vehicles' chassis' are important. How different they are, will decide how difficult your swap will be. You will have to make custom body mounts from scratch, or adapt ones from another application. Some of the mounts may line up, or other options, other than the original mounting locations may exist too.

4 - Once you have determined that the frame you intend to use is suitable for your swap, select an appropriate location to make the cut in an area that will not require you to have to move or alter any of the cross members or transmission mounts. Somewhere near the front of the bed. Do make straight cuts. You will get more support out a multi angular cut (at least two 45 degree angle cuts per side).

5 - You may want to think about adding fish plates on the inside of the frame once the initial weld of the frame is completed. This consists of grinding the frame welds flush then cutting a diamond with rounded ends out of quarter inch plate steel large enough to cover a large portion of the cut. Weld these plates in place.

6 - Never worry about your frame again.

Body mounts will be your next challenge.

7 - Ensure the frame is located on a flat level surface.
8 - Place the body on the frame.
9 - Block the body so it is level while maintaining the most points of contact to the frame as possible.
10 - Measure and mark the spaces between the frame and the original body mounts on the body. The size of the gaps will determine the materials utilized to construct the new mounting surfaces for the body.
11 - Where possible try to use original style mounts so your body will receive the same support on the new frame as it did on the original frame.

Someone else may have other methods of conducting this swap and may also identify any details I may have left out.

Good Luck.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 06-04-2007, 10:57 PM
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: How to title a hot rod Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: West Virginia
Age: 25
Posts: 3,393
Wiki Edits: 8

Thanks: 16
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
they drop onto old lwb s10 frame with ease very little cutting and no shortening of frame
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2007, 08:23 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Southeastern,Pa.
Posts: 9
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Price is right...$500 for the 91 ford...aluminum rims with good rubber and a strong 302 that doesn't leak all over the place.For the time being I would put a flat bed on it till I shortened the frame for a F1 bed...What about a Ford ranger frame? Was hoping to keep a ford with a Ford ,BUT ,if the final result is "on the road" then I'm OK with that. If it is going to be less of a hassle by using a S10 frame I may just go that route...Thanx MARK
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 06-05-2007, 09:44 PM
Kusto's Avatar
FORD Tuff with CHEVY stuff
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 19
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
It was not my intention to scare you off from shortening the frame. I just wanted to make sure you understood how important it is to do it correctly.

Lots of people are putting these things on ranger frames, s-10 frames as well as full size frames.

Mine is on a 72 Chevy half ton full size. The frame still had to be shortened and the front wheel stance is a little wide for the stock fender width. The suspension has been dropped approximately 5 inches. So to make it look even meaner, the front fenders have been widened 4 inches on each side to allow the tires to fit inside the wheel wells.

Since you are on here I assume you have made up your mind to do a custom hotrod truck rather than a restoration. If that is the case, your imagination and pocket book are your only limits.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2007, 12:41 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: California
Posts: 2
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
what is lwb?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2007, 02:57 PM
home brew's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Body and exterior tips Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Pense, Sk, Canada
Age: 68
Posts: 7,050
Wiki Edits: 1

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
lwb - long wheel base

Lakota, a member of this site, has a web site with how to put an F1 on an S10 chassis:

http://www.geocities.com/lakota_circle_dancer/swap1
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2007, 12:56 AM
Jr 1948
 

Last journal entry: frame painted and motor is in
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: canada
Age: 22
Posts: 90
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Putting a 1948 ford f1 on a 1981 F150 ford frame

Hey i'm dropping a 1948 ford f1 on to a 1981 full size frame you don't have to cut the frame and shorten it all you have to do is cut the rivets that hold the rear leaf spring hangers and just roll the rearend up to line up with the wheelbase and drill new holes and bold the hangers back on and then shorten the driveshaft and move all your shock mounts and etc then just cut the left over frame off mine gone good so far the front tires stick out about a inch on each side but you can get off set rims all the mounts where pretty easy to make the front cab mounts is just making a level spot on the frame to mount and the front rad support was esy just added another crossmember and the box is really easy just drill holes and but spacers in to line it all up and thats pretty much it i had to move my rearend forward as well i tried the s10 frame but the front tires stock in to far and nothing really lined up as good and i just like keeping stuff all ford
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2007, 10:39 AM
Kusto's Avatar
FORD Tuff with CHEVY stuff
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 19
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I'd like to see some pictures of that. So you are saying that the rear 1/3 of the frame on a 80's ford 1/2 ton is basically a straight rail? This is part of the problem with some swaps there is a curve in that rear 1/3 portion over the axle that allows the proper suspension geometry. If the rear diff is moved out of the hump, you would need to re-engineer the rear suspension.

With regards to the front wheels sticking out 1" past the fenders, you may have a couple of options...As you said, you may be able to get a rim with enough off set to place the tire inside the front fender, but you may wind up shortening your turn radius as the rim might come into contact with the tie rods or A-arms. You might want to look at getting narrowed A-arms which will typically get you 1" narrower on either side. This will give you a lot more options in rim selection for your truck.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 11-15-2007, 11:37 PM
Jr 1948
 

Last journal entry: frame painted and motor is in
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: canada
Age: 22
Posts: 90
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
reply

hey yah the rear axle is in front of the hump but theres still alot of clearence and if it come to it all i will do is just notch the frame but i don't thunk i have to and i'll try and get some pics and where do you get these narrower a-arms? thanks derrick

Last edited by derrick_500; 11-16-2007 at 12:30 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 03-22-2012, 04:19 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
will it work on a F-3

How will this work on a F-3 or will it ?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 03-22-2012, 04:36 PM
OneMoreTime's Avatar
Hotrodders.com moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Health and safety in the shop or garage
Last journal entry: Yard Dog pic
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Washington State
Age: 70
Posts: 7,469
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 65
Thanked 167 Times in 156 Posts
The F3 is about the same as the F! as far as the cab is concerned so any of this should work for you as well..

Sam
__________________
I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
USING LATE 80'S FRAME FOR A 1937 FORD PICKUP DIGGER Body - Exterior 24 08-24-2013 08:25 PM
wanted frame spec's for a 34 ford 3window coupe wogi 34 General Rodding Tech 3 12-19-2007 09:15 AM
32 ford frame width at front axle centerline Dirty Steve Hotrodding Basics 4 05-15-2006 08:40 AM
Questions about my 48 ford F1 jilliewilly Introduce Yourself 3 05-05-2006 11:40 AM
51 f-100 ford truck frame short dude 91 Hotrodding Basics 5 06-08-2005 05:33 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:13 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.